AJmk2
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Posts posted by AJmk2
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Spec on engine is :
8.5:1 spacer
United motorsports 4" MAF & Base map.
Running approx 5-6 Psi at the moment while checking the car over but the previous owner had it at 1 bar and dynoed 341 WHP.
I think there is more to come out of it with a few changes to intercooler pipes and exhaust and a updated map.
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And back in it goes!
First start was great fun. Initially I had no spark as the knock sensor and crank sensor use the same plugs which where on the wrong way around!
Then I had the case of no fuel where the fuel lines were on the wrong way around also.
But then re assuringly the 6 pot fired into life.
So plans for the car :
1) New intake setup - currently the car can stumble a bit as rolling into boost and I wonder if this is a cause of the MAF. I could also do with a vane for the MAF to try and smooth and control the airflow better.
2) There are 2 nasty bends in the intercooler pipeing that need to be sorted also.
3) Extra exhaust silencer as I like the car to be even more of a sleeper
Managed to also give the car a quick clean.
Car is running okay but has a big stuttering problem.
Need to track it down and see if its turbulance in the MAF or fuel delivery related.
Also need to investigate short runner intake as the manifold gets very hot sitting so close to the turbo.
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Bottom mount turbos I have discovered are things of the devil.
Trying to undo the manifold bolts/wastegate is a pain, V-Band/top mount is the way to go.
With the engine out at least it gave me a chance to get to know the setup and inspect everything. Engine is running a Helix SMF and Clutch/Pressure plate.
This is the second helix setup I have used on VRT, both have quite heavy pedals but this one is using an organic type disc which is much more easier to control compared to the 4 puk on my old setup.
The head off my new galaxy engine could not be used as it had VVT however the blocks are identical. The new block was stripped down and all tensioners,chains,guides removed to be replaced by new parts.
When looking at the turbo it was found that it would barely spin but didnt have any play at all. At this point I was very unhappy as it seemed a long list of things were wrong with the car. Soaking the bearing housing for a few days resulted in it spinning a lot easier. Must have had coke build up.
On closer inspection it was also found there was a small hairline crack in the exhaust manifold so I had to call on my friend for a bit of welding.
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Hi all, thought id upload my latest project....
I recently went and purchased a fairly complete mk3 golf with 4 motion swap, some of you may remember it from on here
On start up the engine was quiet but once warm you could start to here a slight clonking. This I thought was the chains as it sounded almost identical to my old engine when the chains needed doing.
After 15 mins of driving the car home I decided I didnt want to risk any damage so had the car recovered to a friends garage and thats when the fun began.
To take the cover off the engine the whole front end needs to be removed.
After taking the cover finally off it was noticed that there was very minimal wear on the chains/guides so it was decided time to drain the oil and check the sump.
It then became clear that a bearing had decided to vacate the block [8(]
I tried to find a crank to replace the one in the block but after searching I could not find one.
Instead I picked up a complete engine from a "low" 70K Ford Galaxy.
So the strip down began.
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Updates will be coming slowly. The na lump has been sold to a friend who is building high horsepower vrt quattro setup. I will create a new thread for harry soon which is currently stripped back also but hopefully be at inters or bug jam.
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Will this be on the road this season ? I hope its not collecting dust!
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Is there an oem windage tray for the vr6?
Also anyone running a baffled sump ?
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Hi
Does anyone have access to the parts diagram for the 24V vr6 engine?
I need parts to do with the chain system and tensioners but I also need some sprockets im missing and dont know the part numbers!
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Im running a standalone ECU on the setup so wont have the factory controller for it.
I have not had a look at Gareths setup. Could be interesting to compare at the end though!
The reason for bike bodies was cost as this is an experiment at this stage really. The most I could be lose is say 10 ? 15hp and even then I highly doubt that much. If I dont meet my power goals then I will look into other options.
Yep I need to start getting in contact with some cam companies, will be starting it up initially on the stock cams anyway to get the base map sorted.
Yep there is a bit of an angle but luckily fairly smooth transition within the body itself. Plus as the engine sits to one side in the mk2 should direct the trumpets nicely above the radiator.
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Finally up to date with my new build on the forum! Looks like a lot of cars will be ready from this forum for next season.
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Finally have made a mock template for the throttle body flange which looks fine. Now just need to draw up an exhaust and normal intake flange and get them all made in metal later this week.
Started to take the head apart to look at the variable cam gear and how I can lock it into position, also looks like if I want I could mill the locking position into the new style cam and then just use an old cam gear from the 12v engine.
Either that or I could make a plate up that clamps on the end of the adjustable gear which would then allow me to manually fine tune it.
Or simplest option may be to just have it welded up in a locked position.
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are they triumph speed triple throttle bodies?
They are from a Triumph but not sure if it was a speed triple. The capacity of the bike was 900cc I believe they are from a 900f?
Good idea on Schimmel' date=' will have to investigate. I have decided to get the car up and running on standard cams to start with in order to get a half decent map so that I can run in the new cams once they are fitted.
So first of all I mocked up the throttle bodies to see how spacing was to the head.
[img']http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/553821_10151252361283098_922993642_n.jpg
Unfortunately they are too wide unless I run bent runners and then each set would have to be offset at an angle. So I took them apart to see what I could do about the spacing.
I did want to mount them sideways but even with the linkage removed I couldn't get them close enough together. This means that I have had to turn the bodies 90 degrees and remove some of the injector boss. I will eventually remove it all as if I do go for a second stage of injectors they will now be mounted at the bell mouth entrance.
Next step is to design a chain/belt linkage across all of of the throttles with a tensioner. This way I can just connect the cable to one throttle. As you can see they are all angled which is not what I was hoping for but it does have a nice smooth transition in the body at least.
If anyone knows of any second hand dry sump pumps for sale would be interested.
Hopefully get more done next weekend, too many f1 & motogp distractions.
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The throttle bodies have arrived.
They can be individually split so going to have a look at getting the spacing and making a linkage/flanges all drawn up this weekend. If anyone is interested in any of the flanges at all send a PM.
Anyone know of a good method to block the injector holes but be able to use them again later ? Could be interesting seeing the different results between the injectors mounted in the head and further up stream.
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Hi all
Well I thought id start a thread on my new NA project.
I have owned my golf with its vr6 for 4 years now initially stock AAA, then on megasquirt for year , megasquirt turbo for 2 years and now im coming to a conclusion with a N/A build.
The reason for doing this is its well proven and very easy to make good power with a turbo set up so I want to try something different.
My goal for the project is a minimum of 280hp and anything over 300hp from the 2.8 block will be seen as a success!
I have decided to go for a 24V block as after looking at the design of the 12v it did not look like it would be good for a NA build.
So far I have the head and the block and the throttle bodies are on the way.
Pictures of the block :
Thought I would put a bit of paint on the block just to tidy it up :
And finally the cylinder head:
Probably going to take a few months to complete but hopefully worth it in the end!
The main problem I am having so far is finding a good set of cams. I have had a look at the schrick 272 272 but im surprised by the lack of valve overlap which I really want to take advantage of with tuned intake and exhaust.
Any suggestions much appreciated!
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On my 12v I had lots of oil pressure problems from the supply, pretty sure you can get the feed onto the turbo which has the correct restrictor size built in. That was on a journal setup.
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Pretty sure that 1000hp + "R36" consists of an R32 block with R36 head could be worth asking him what he has done to strengthen the bottom end.
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I don't think that's the right choice' date=' but it's your car mate, so go with what you want
[/quote']
I think I would agree with that also. Unless you can find a dual mass that has been designed to withstand the amount of power you are making which I cant think there is, or if you are worried that your gearbox is the weak link and you would rather the clutch went first.
Would be interesting to learn why Andy has chosen that.
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Not sure if this will fit but if he uses it on his 1200hp R36 then hopefully should hold. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4108171-my-R36-bigturbo-build../page22
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Car looks great, but didnt you forget you need a number plate?
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With my old setup my turbo seal went and filled my intercooler with oil so it seemed to smoke even after i fixed the turbo. If its just oil seal you may as well abuse the motor a bit more.
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How can your engine let go at idle ?
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So what time did you run before the drive shaft went pop ?
Good effort with getting this finished looks like a lot of work.
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Hope this monster is ready in time.
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Good work , is a completely different animal compared to last year.
Swivelonit's MK 4 VR6T 4 Motion
in Members Rides and Event Photos
Posted · Edited by AJmk2
Just get a bolt on charger will actually be the cheapest option in the long run. Should come with a chip if not only heard good things about stealth.
Wouldn't recommend UM software have it on mine and not impressed could just be an exception but am now switching to standalone because so far out.
How are you finding the rsr tyres ?