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Posts posted by dubdub
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IMO Stay with original. Mines on the original after 11plus!
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Give you VIN to a dealer to obtain part number. Then give VIN from another model year. You will have yor answer.
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I dunno if these have drybollick tappets. But if it does then they do take a moment to charge up with oil when the engine been stripped down.
I know my Subaru did this until I changed to another brand of oil.
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My VR is an imported on from Japan.
It would be helpfull to know where the code reader is located.
The car is a late 95 part OBD1/OBD2.
Is it above the ashtray? or beneath auto centre console.
Either way I do not want to bust bits off.
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This may sound daft. But when you use a trolly jack. Place it on the smoothest concrete you can.
This allows the jack to move a bit as the car raises and reduces the chances of flattening or bending the floorpan jack points.
The scissor jack cannot move with the car so the sill edges bend as the car goes up.
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Try TPS they can be quite good on most bits.
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I assume these pulleys are secured vitha woodruff key as well (I could be wrong)
If this is the case then it will need to be replaced as well.
Also check slot for wear that may have been caused by chatter when pully loose.
Lightweight pulleys should be your last consideration as they offer no improvement at all.
IMO
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This seems to be a common fault with many brands NOT JUST VW..
Point one on image would seem most logical.
The sill bending can be caused several ways:-
1/ Poor location by user.
2/ Soft uneven ground like the side of the road. Where you end up when a puncture occurs.
If you are one the move and get a flat stay on hard ground. Avoid soggy ground at all costs.
Some twisting if the sill edge is inevitable and common with scissor jacks. It does not mean you have a rust bucket.
3/ The third and maybe the worst problem may be excessive corrosion of the sill area.
The use of a trolly jack at point 1 of the image will require a longer reach jack than many you see in shops. So before you shoot off to buy one, measure the distance you intend to reach, otherwise you may find you cannot operate the handle.
TIP OF THE DAY;
Check underbody chassis when buying, then waxoil it from within to prevent future problems.
60 years ago you could could jack many cars up by the bumper support brackets! Mind you. Chassis still rotted like carrots!
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33 mpg??? thats fantastic dude' date=' i rarely get more than 20 mpg's..
the VR is a fantastic all round car, the build quality and fit of panels and stuff is far superior to any jap tin. Relating to the first point, im probably going to change the VR soon for a mk4 TDI, 130, as im doing maybe £100:00 a week of v-power.
As for the haters they can all kiss my v powered exhaust fumes to 150 mph...
[/quote']
Yes it is good on a run but round town will give about 17-22 dependant on traffick. All petrol engine motors of around this capacity will be similar. Off course if you got lead legs then fuel consumpion will differ.
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This seems to have been a year of change for VWs so you could have a bit of a mixture.
On the engine side of things it is easy to tell as it will not have coil pack ignition. Just a distributer.
Umpteen other difs also.
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Rust? what rust?
My mk 3 VR is rust free!
I have had both mk 2 and mk3 variants.
I found both the a bit tutonic but screwed together well.
The mk 1 seemed to atract more rust due to drainage problems so I never bought one.
I well recall the arival of the mk3 but it felt overweight and underpowered in the petrol form so I bought a new tdi model reg N10 0LF. I could get over 70mpg on a run ! So if you have it . I was The 1st keeper.
When the VR came out it was like a breath of fresh air and went like the clappers. The one a have at present is without doubt good fun. Pity it only does about 33mpg though.
If you want good build quality and fun buy one!
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Mine runs at a tad past centre with new stat and rest of trimmings.
It does sound as if stat is opening a bit early which is better than a bit late.
Keep an eye on coolant level though.
Sorry if I double posted.
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Mine runs at a tad past contre with new stat and rest of trimmings.
It does sound as if stat is opening a bit early which is better than a bit late.
Keep an eye on coolant level though.
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Just noticed my high level brake light is in extenal foil instead of glass.
Why...when?
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Thermoastat located as follows:
Roughly in line with bonnet catch and a shade to the right.
You will see a coil pack . It is directly below this.
On this motor it is upside down with plenty of plumbing!
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got them with Eibach sportline springs and they are spot on really' date=' just need my eibach ARBs now
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Think I will end up with valve springs on mine!
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no probs at all i fit this make to lots of cars
Cheers. Then these are what I will order.
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mine are boge as well
BOGE! I may have one up mty hooter!
Are they any good?
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i got 2 for mine they are gas
Thank you. I will use gas.
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Bog standard Im afraid.
I think they are gas?
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looks very clean mate' date='
was an easy engough job removing the sideskirts ?
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ye it was easy enough to remove them, i think it looks loads better without them
I have a small broken section on my sideskirt OS clipover cover.
Do you intend to sell yours?
By the way it looks real cool !
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Has anyone tried fitting one of these to their VR6 and if so what were the results? I'm a bit dubious of the 20 bhp increase quoted but would be happy to be proved wrong. Seems too good to be true.
Try a hair dryer!
These are spacewasters!
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Can any kind member please tell me if VRs are fitted with gas or hydraulic shockers?
As I may replace the pair.
Sugestions please?
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What you lot on about?
Mine has the lights on' date=' door open buzzer which I really like and it's a shame that modern cars are losing that (lots are going DRL). The radio remains powered when the key is still in, but not unless the ignition has already been on.
No tunes, though!!
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Yeh same as mine. Not buzzer however. Also does keys in warning tune.
Qiute agree about new stuf though.
thermostat guide
in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Posted
I recently replaced mine.
If you order just the thermo housing you may find the cover from your original may not fit exactly due to some age warping.
I found this out some weeks ago, so I replaced the
whole lot, building it up first (dry run) Then stripped and re-assumbled with sealant of course.
Pay great attension to cleaning the head face as this is also prone to leakage.