Conky
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Everything posted by Conky
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As I said I'm in the middle of the conversion, I'm hoping I will get it finished before the trip to the ring with the club-GTI guys, if not I will have to put a spare 02a in. Yup, those are the shafts I was talking about very high quality parts, no need to worry about their strength and balance. With regards to gb gearing it depends which 02M box you get, the DRP out of the 4motion has a fairly short gear ratio set when compared to the GQV/FMP/GQT 02Ms used in r32's, but some have shorter. I always found the standard 02A to be to long on the track, most tracks I would never shift into 5 gear.
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Of course, one of the great things about the DRP 02M box from the 4mo is the gear ratios and 6sp Its really depends what you consider difficult I guess. The hardest bit is repositioning the gearbox cup mount, it requires a bit of fabricating skills. Off the top of my head to do an 02M conversion you need these bits off a 4mo vr golf 6speed Tranny flywheel clutch starter cable change You also need a few custom bits... 02m mk3 tranny mount fabricated bracket for front engine mount custom drive shafts (if you want to be cheap you can use S3 inners and golf vr6 outers and marry them up) 02M 4WD t
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Hi guys, this maybe a monumental thread revival but we have sorted out the power loss issue once and for all!!!!! :-d You would never guess what it was though! over 3 years we have struggled with this misfire at 4k and loss of power on track. In an effort to resolve this issue we have revised the entire coolest and lubrication system, always believing it was an engine temp issue or possible det problems. Also we have spent ages testing and replacing different ignitions components. Even sourced a new ECU, re-socketed it to take our tuned rom, but all in vain. I mean this thread has only docum
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Sure will buddy, thanks
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Hi Gary, we haven’t really got much further tbh, as mentioned before, a nasty short in the wiring loom manages to damage a jumper pin on the ecu which we manages to resolder a good while ago. After that I’ve never trusted the original ecu so Ive sourced another one which is being sent off to stealth racing to get it socketed and rechipped. I worked out how to switch ecus over without the immobiliser having a paddy with the aid of vagcom, but I don't have the rework tools to do the socket installation myself. When we get the ecu back (I would imagine in a week or so) your welcome to pop ove
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The PN for the pump is in my last but one post. Ive uploaded the data sheet for all current Bosch aux pumps... http://rapidshare.com/files/60440301/Water_circulation_pumps.pdf.html Actually wondered if it was some sort of rubber nrv, but the fact it wouldn’t allow flow in either direction and also it was quite visible that there was no break out on the main hose length, I was sure it was a manufacturing fault. Whether it should have had an nrv is another question. Cheers
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Just fitted a new auxiliary pump, its quite a bit more beefy than the old worn out vr6 one. The Bosch part number is 0 392 022 003, normally fitted to an AMG SL55 coolant system. Pretty easy to fit, you just have to put together a relay board to supply the pump power as the standard wiring isn’t up to the current requirements this new pump needs. outlet sizes are the same. Got a meeting at Donington park next month so that’s the next test
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So it seems yes, vag-com is pretty useless at displaying ignition advance, the refresh rate is just to slow, half the time im not sure what to make of the values it produces for ignition timing. power loss only ever happens on the track, thats the only time I can really push the car.
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This is what it says im my vr6 workshop manual... My ecu has never once recorded a fault specific to knock.
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Compression is very good, a week or two ago I check all 6 cylinders and they all read a healthy 13 bar. The Aquamist pressure sensor is set to switch on at 4bar which works out at roughly 4500rpm, Im using the blue jet and running a 20% Methanol/water mixture. I’ve got the logs on my laptop and will see what the ecu has been doing with ignition timings. The car doesn’t misfire, it just loses power and refuses to accelerate, the engine still feels smooth, but just gutless.
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Hi rcf, Im running BKR6E plugs with standard gap, Ive been lead to believe the gap only needs changing when running well over 300bhp. I think its about time to wip the head off and check the head gasket, might be holes unpunched in the gasket or something ridiculously obvious like that.
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Hi all, yet another update Well it was a bit of a rush to get the car ready for Castle Combe but we managed it, mainly waiting on a Corrado vr6 metal heat exchanger end cap so we could complete the oil cooler installation. so basically what we got done is as follows: -heat wrapped the manifold -ran a mix of water and water wetter, no anti freeze -fitted a low temperature thermostat -installed a huge 9 series Setrab oil cooler with Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate -put together some hinge plates to raise the rear of the bonnet to add with cooling (fitted just before I went on track) -Switched
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Thinking about it, yeah the coolant comes into contact with the water jackets so it should heat up pretty damn quick! sorry. Yeah, I'm just about to put a low temp stat in mine. Going to run just water and water wetter, ww should have enough corrosion inhibitors without using any G12. Hopefully it will run a lot cooler on the track next meeting finger crossed. Like you a few people have commented on the difference it makes which is great!
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No, it shouldn’t really make any difference, theoretically it should take a fraction less time for the oil to warm up because it’s not preheating the coolant, the coolant may take a fraction longer to warm up though. Really these heat exchangers work best on diesels, they were actually originally used on the diesel to help it warm the coolant by the oil temp as diesels run quite cool, but VW found that it also helped cool the oil on their petrol engines because it was usually hotter than the coolant. Not a VR6, but I don’t run a heat exchanger on my ABF 16v Jetta and warm up times didnâ€
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yeah, I much prefer the idea of completely removing the old heat exchanger to.
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Thanks for the replies, after a bit of phoning around I managed to source a metal cap for a fiver, if that fails I will give think autos a ring. Cheers
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Ok, I think I found my answer over on the club GTI forum..... [blockquote]You'll also need an early metal cap that goes over the end of the heat exhanger as the later plastic ones are part of the bolt and they don't seperate[/blockquote] my golf is obd 2, any one have one of these metal obd 1 caps lying about they would want to sell?? :-p
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Just wondering if anyone has ever fitted a Mocal oil cooler kit, I’m having a few issues. The kit uses a standard Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, a “special†vr6 extension bolt to allow the sandwich plate to fit in place of the old VW cooler. I just can’t figure out how this shorter extension bolt fits, as the old bolt is push fitted into the plastic end cap. See pic... If anyone can enlighten me I would be really thankful. Cheers
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Thanks for the reply, tbh the coolant system has not been touched yet, I’ve visually check it and thats about it. I was told it had been flushed out and coolant changed not so long before I bought it. With any look next weekend I'll have a new water pump and uprated auxiliary electric pump which I plan to put on a switch (normally only comes on at 107c) but having it come on at lower temps may help up the water pressure a wee bit and aid with flow and alleviate any hot spots. I’ll flush out the rad when the coolant is removed, visually it looks new. Defiantly a method of cooling the intake
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Hi Kev, I’m sure your right, I recently read that both the Temic and Beru’s use the same Telefunken internals anyway. If only I could use a Bosch motorsport coil pack! the 6 cylinder version is very reasonably priced. Yesterday I got hold of a copy of VAG-COM and a compatible cable and went out to do some data logging. I manly concentrating on IAT's, Ignition angle and Knock I did a few full throttle runs through gears. The logged data indicates IAT temperature when moving doesnt really go much higher than 40c, Low speeds see around 46c. Worst temps are when static, but as soon as you move
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Quick update: Over the weekend I wrapped the exhaust manifold up tighter than an egyptian mummy with about 200ft of heat wrap! and shielded the inlet manifold. Today we took the car to Stealth, the car ran pretty poorly on the way up to Warwickshire, granted it was pretty hot weather, but the car was certainly not behaving itself. Vince popped the VR on the rollers and plugged the ecu into his pc and logged the output values on a full throttle run. 1st problem we noticed was the engine was rocking pretty excessively on its mounts, this could be felt from in car but visually looked bad. Typical
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Pretty sure that thread was me chap, that was the 1st problem that had to be sorted. When I bought the car the loom that ran through the bulk head was fried and the +P, neg and signal wires to the maf were shorting pretty much their full length in the nest of wires. tbh this car has been a real pain to sort out, it rarely run right, I seem to have zero luck with coil packs and this power loss on track is pretty confusing. My old obd1 rado vr I had a good few year ago ran wonderfully, never missing a beat even on the track it held up well, I rember getting a recommendation to use water wetter a
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Hi kev, thanks very much for your reply! Sorry I forgot to mention it’s an obd2 engine. I wouldn’t have thought iats would be to much of an issue with this low boost supercharger setup, just can’t see them rising to 90c. I’ve tested the ect sensor, and its output resistance at different temperatures is within tolerance of the technical data I’ve been referring to. not sure what you mean about switching the air temp sensors, surely the poor resolution of the sensor is down to the standard ecu, also the location of the sensor doesn’t seem to be in the best place on the Schrick manifo
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I have a large Ramair filter fitted which is located down on the bottom right side behind the bumper, it is completely out of the engine bay and has a direct supply of cold are from a vent opening in the bumper, so it sucks in the coolest supply of air possible I would imagine, probably could get a wee bit dirty but the car is a trailer queen and only ever gets used on the track so not a real issue. I'm about to fit a Mocal oil cooler even though oil temps imo are very good anyway just as a preventative measure and remove the nasty standard oil cooler. Also looking into a compact charge coole
