spiffo
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Posts posted by spiffo
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Well michael5556 you we're spot on, lasted about two days then packed up again !
New motors are no longer available and second hand ones are uber rare because they all fail.
Does anyone know if the motor can be rebuilt / repaired ?
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Just recently my drivers electric window stopped working, pressing the button just produced a clicking noise from inside the door.
I did a Forum search and the general concensus was it was likely to be the motor but could be persuaded to work by hitting it with a hammer.
I held the down button and whacked the end of the motor with a hammer and lo and behold everything started working again.
Is this likely to be a recurring problem ?
Can only the motor be swapped or does the whole regulator need to be swapped out ?
Any help gratefully received :-)
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Absolutely Correct, it's the Master Cylinder that's bolted to the bulkhead, just checked on ETKA, 1H2 721 401, I think.
No clutch slip, Bigjobbo, why do you ask ?
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What makes me think it's the slave cylinder is that the noise appears to come from all over the engine bay, i.e. it's difficult to pin it down to a specific area.
This is what makes me think it's the slave cylinder because it's bolted to the bulkhead so it would make the whole bulkhead resonate if the piston inside the cylinder was rubbing as you depress the pedal.
That's my theory anyway ;-)
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Hi guys, everytime I press the clutch pedal down there's a loud creaky / squeaky noise as I do it. I thought at first it was the pedal mechanism but having throughly lubricated it, it made no difference. And now I've decided that the noise is louder in the engine bay, I'm beginning to think that the noise is coming from the Slave Cylinder, is that possible ?
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I don't think many of us are in a position to buy an ABS pump new, seeing as they cost £1000, gulp !
Now someone may correct me on my knowledge of VW part no.s but as far as I understand it, the numbers are the part and the letter on the end is a version number. So for instance you may find that they revised a part on your car and that the replacement part you get from VW actually has a higher letter than the one you took off but it still does the same job. Also sometimes the letters are used to indicate the colour of the part on things like interior trim.
So what I'm saying is that 1h2 614 117 c is a completely different part no. and will not work on your car, but 1h2 614 217 b is the same pump as you have but is a slightly earlier variant of it, therefore it may work on your car but please don't take my word for it.
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It's not an easy job at all, I'd say.
You could probably do the wishbone ones without dropping the Subframe, although it gets really tight trying to put them back in, I found loosening the remaining Subframe bolts on the side I was doing and then allowing the subframe to sag downwards a couple of cm's gave me just about enough room to force the wishbone back into place.
Oh but forgot to mention that the front wishbone bolt on the drivers side doesn't clear the sump, so either you take the sump off (if you need an oil change anyway you could do that), or take all the engine mount bolts out and lift the engine out the way. I took the sump off.
There was also one bolt, the passenger wishbone rear one (vertical into the chassis) that I just could not budge. In the end I had to borrow a compressor and air wrench to shock it out !
Basically I wouldn't attempt it yourself unless you have plenty of time and equipment to throw at it.
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OK, battery charged up, all suspension bolts torqued up and went for a spin.
It definitely feels a bit better on the turn in, however settle into a corner and feed in the power and it still understeers like crazy, I reckon if you floored the throttle going around a tight roundabout you'd be straight into those nice barriers on the outside, nose first !
Mind you I've yet to have the camber and toe in setup properly, basically I've used a spirit level to set the camber to about zero and a tape measure on the front and back of the tyres to set the Toe In to about zero as well, I know the standard settings aren't too far away from this so that was just to get the thing driveable and in the right ballpark.
There's another thread running on camber and toe in, I think I'll join that.
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Sometimes it's only possible to adjust one side because the track rod on one side is a fixed length, my MK1 was like that, but my Mk3 has threaded track rods on both sides so I'm assuming all MK3's came like that ?
Can Kwik Fit do Camber adjustments, maybe they can Feck that up too ?
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OK done a bit of searching and have found out a few things.
Firstly, a few people have aftermarket wishbones (from GSF mostly) and the Wishbone Bush with the vertical bolt through the middle of it doesn't fit correctly, in fact they move up and down and this can destroy the bush.
Secondly the MK3 bush has a steel inner and the MK2 bush doesn't, so if you've not fitted the correct MK3 bush, again it will be destroyed eventually.
I've yet to find anyone who's had problems with the correct MK3 Bush in an original OEM Wishbone in a MK3 subframe which is me, you've got me worried now |-)
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Yeah, the front Wishbone Bushes, I'd better keep a sharp on eye on them then.
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Well that's what I've done, the Rear Beam ones, the front Wishbone ones and also the power steering rack and the front anti-roll bar ones.
Finished today ! Unfortunately the car has been up axle stands that long, the battery has gone flat so I can't go out and try it out yet. |-)
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OK, had a go at replacing them tonight but gave up, there seems no way of getting the steel washer off the inner steel tube without wrecking one or the other or both.
Has anybody else actually replaced these bushes, anyone at all ?
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Mmmmm, all I can think of is that as you turn into a corner the engine will want to go straight on, so it will try to deform / distort the bushes on this front engine carrier and so the engine will twist position slightly in the engine bay. If you fit the stiffer Powerflex bushes it won't shift position so much.
What benefit you would get from that is baffling me at the moment, maybe I should give Powerflex a ring and ask them what they think they're for.
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OK, I'm fitting Powerflex bushes to the whole front end on my '96 VR6 and I've got to these four subframe bushes which seem to replace the four in the Front Engine Carrier (see pic below)
Does anyone know what the point of replacing these is, after all as far as I can make out all it does is support the front engine mount so what's the point of uprating the bushes exactly, how is that going to make the car handle better ?
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Errr, you shouldn't need to touch the acclerator, my OBDII engine starts without me touching the loud pedal, idles fast at 1200rpm for a few minutes then settles down to a steady 700rpm.
Can anyone else help him, I'd suggest start by getting it on VAGCOM.
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The Cat and the standard mid box are still there, with a Milltek back box, I might just go back to standard and see how it goes. I'm sure someone will give me some money for it, shame as it looks pretty good, if Milltek are one of the best then it probably just proves that I'm really picky and I won't be satisfied with any aftermarket performance exhaust.
Oh well, more expense :-(
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Yeah I wouldn't be surprised if some people thought that it wasn't too loud at all, it's a very subjective thing after all. But for me it's a bit much.
Has anybody changed one for something else, a Supersprint for example and noticed the difference ?
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Cheers for all your input guys !
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Mmmm just went to the website and there's no center box listed for a MK3 Golf, only two types of back box, a cat bypass pipe and a high flow cat.
The website also says they offer resonated and non-resonated versions of most of their systems, any idea how I would tell whether my back box is a resonated or non-resonated unit ?
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I've got a '96 VR6 Highline with a Milltek exhaust fiited on it but I'm not that happy with it.
Basically it booms / drones, it's louder when you put your foot down which is fine, but even cruising at a constant speed there's a constant low frequency droning which is spoiling my enjoyment of my top tunes.
Are they all like that, it's not a cheap exhaust system by any means, maybe it's had it ?
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I had a MK1 that used to randomly pull left then right under acceleration, that was a knackered wishbone bush, causing one front wheel to shift around and steer itself.
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Just done mine, bit of an arse of a job to change though.
You can test it like I did, take off the plastic cowl around the Ignition barrel, take a good look at the multiway connector on the back of the Ignition switch, there's a big red wire which is your 12v In and there's a red/black wire I think (memory isn't what it used to be) which is the feed off to the starter solenoid. Put a multimeter into the back of the switch on the red/black wire and try to start the car. 12v should appear on the red/black wire when the starter is cranking and when you stop cranking it should disappear.
On my car when I tried to start it sometimes 12v would appear and the starter would crank and sometimes no volts would appear and nothing happened that's how I new it was a duff ignition switch.
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I don't have a link, PM me your Email and I'll attach the pdf.
Is it easy to fit vr6 ignition switch??
in I.C.E, Security an Electrical
Posted
Done this a while ago, it was a pig but only cos I made a fundamental error.
People will tell you that you can remove the switch without removing the entire switch housing but personally I found that impossible. So you have to remove the Steering Wheel and the entire Switch Housing.
Be warned that if the steering lock goes on you can't remove the Switch Housing, that was my mistake, struggled for hours then finally realised that the steering lock was on, DOH !