ardandy
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Posts posted by ardandy
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Why don't people use intercoolers on VR6 S/c's?
Surely they'd bring the temp down a bit?
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I've got a Corrado VR6 and am wanting to rebuild the engine (for various reasons!) for 2 main reasons;
1, Reliabilty and long term longevity
2, Preperation for stage 2 Supercharge
Now I've read that changing to low compression is recommended for s/c? I've also read that changing to low comp without a s/c is pretty crappy. As theres likely to be at least a year in-between the rebuild and the s/c, is a low comp necessary? I wouldn't want a poor Corrado for at least a year (if this makes sense).
Am I better getting a 2.8 and reboring that to 2.9 than reboring mine? I've heard if I go bigger than 2.9 I could get issues due to the block been too thin??
Would a stage 2 s/c (with recommended cooling stuff) be reliable with a properly rebuilt VR using standard components?
Cheers!
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Ok here's the situation.
I've got to the point where I've paid things off and can start to actually save etc.
My plan is and always has been to rebuild my VR6's (Corrado) engine to get it ultra reliable, including if it was supercharged.
My engine still works fine (especially as a weekend car) but is getting on a bit now.
I have no mechanical knowledge past what I've read so any answers can you keep in dumb dumb speak!
Ques1: How much would you set aside (rough guestimate I know) for a full rebuild if I wanted the above? Parts cost?
Ques2: What would you uprate whilst this is been done? I'd want a reliable engine that could easily take a stage 2 Supercharger.
Ques3: Would it be cheaper to get another VR6 engine (as mines stil working) and get them to rebuild that, then swap over?
My contraints are: Reliable enough not to worry about taking it across Europe etc and up to a stage 2 supercharger. Almost factory fresh/uprated if you will. After much thought I'm wanting to do this over an engine transplant.
Thanks!
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Have you put cardboard under the car to see if theres any drips?
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A few pics of the exhaust, possibly the culprit? Almost seems scorched at the tailpipe, wasn't like that before. Also a bit hanging down in the middle!
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It did sound like the exhaust was playing a part! Kind of a feeling I got. Especially with the 'ping' that I heard everynow and then. Maybe it was petrol or something igniting in the exhaust?
Excuse for a sports cat!
Who knows, I just want the thing to run dammit!
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Ok here's the situation.
Drove to leeds about 45 mins. Absolutely perfect!
About 6 hours later set off to go back home.
Had real problems starting, idling was iffy and it cut out a few times. If I pressed the accelerator fully nothing happened, the only way I could get it to rev at all was to blip the throttle quickly.
After a few minutes like that it stabilised a bit but the idling was still lumpy, we decided to set off to see how it was.
For the whole journey back it was like I'd left the hand brake on or something! Pressing the accelerator fully or partially didn't make a difference as you'd expect. I could only just gradually speed up. Any sort of incline almost killed it and the revs fell off. In parts it probably looked like a new learner driver was driving, with it been jerky! On a particular steep hill I had to drop to 1st and crawl up!
Another thing I noticed was that when pressing the accelerator fully/a lot, everynow and then I'd hear a metallic 'ping/ding' followed by a brief jerk.
The exhaust was slightly louder than normal, more boomy but in a normal sounding way. When I stopped there was a lot of pinking coming from the exhaust as if it was very hot, the plastic centre tunnel in the cabin (where the handbrake is) also felt as if I'd been on a m-way for a few hours, warm. Oil and water temps were normal.
It's getting serviced on thursday, so its been a while. On previous occasions if it's been a while between services I've noticed that a couple of spark plugs were black/oily, usually no.1. If a spark plug or 2 were knackered could they cause this type of problem?
Going down hill sounded perfectly normal (on overrun) if that helps.
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I have a healthy 2.9 VR6 Corrado (at the mo at least!) and have no issues with temps etc.
Is there any real benefit to getting the low fan temp sensor fitted so the fans come in earlier? Not expensive I believe but is it worth doing during a service?
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I have a 93K Corrado 2.9 VR6. OBD1
Does anybody know the part number for my inlet manifold?
Also, is there any different rocker covers for any VR6 engine or are they all the same?
Cheers!
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Well it's at Awesome (again!) today and for the week.
They're sure it's either the gasket for or a crack in the housing for the ECU Blue Temp sensor.
As it happened when they were working on it they said they'd sort it out price wise too!
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My engine is losing coolant, it drives perfectly with no issues.
A local mech has had a brief look and said from where it seems to be coming from it could be the head gasket or possibly the core plug???
It's going back on wednesday so he can take the underneath cover etc off to have a proper look.
Could I have head gasket problems (just losing coolant, no oil anywhere that can be seen etc) even though the engine drives perfectly? Are there any signs that are obvious?
It's a 2.9 Corrado by the way.
Cheers!
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I'd replace as much as poss if the engines out of the car, it's gotta be easier and will need doing at some point so I'd save you some future hassle if I was you.
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Well, got the final bill now!
I did ask if it could be capped a little but I guess the extra labour they've spent on it has totted up a bit! Hardly capped IMO but hey ho!
£360ish on parts (thats without the MAF! thank god I didn't need that!)
£400ish on labour!
Total - £769 inc VAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I suppose it's about right and thanks to the dead Rado the fault was actually found but it's still an awful lot right after Xmas!
Couple that with the fact that someone rear ended the van on Monday and it appears he is un-insured, this has being a **** week!
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Got a phone call from Mike (general manager) to give me an update.
As he was passing the 'finished and running fine' Corrado of mine it just cut out and refused to start again!
He got Jim??? onto the case and they ended up checking the engine loom, fuel pump (which was not working and then was working again whilst they were working on it?) and various other parts, bearing in mind that several sensors including the £220 MAF sensor had already being replaced!
As luck would have it (at least for me) another VR6 Corrado turned up with a blown headgasket and a failed clutch, meaning some swapsies for testing purposes only was possible!
On a hunch he swapped the ECU over and since then it's being faultless and in Jims words 'absolutely flies' now! 8)
They've sourced another ECU and fit it (between £100-£150) which is fine, but my next question was "if this thing is telling you whats wrong is faulty in itself, could it actually mean that the sensors are in fact fine and the ECU was reading them wrong?"
A bit of testing later using my original MAF, and it's running perfectly! So although its costing me another £100-£150 for the ECU I no longer need to spend £220-£250 on the MAF etc as it's fine!
So, looks like its properly sorted now but it's being a pain and would explain why its taken so long for various garages (going on about a year now!) to figure out whats going on.
Phew!
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Corrado or Golf?
Theres 2 for the Corrado, early and late, the late one being 95 > 96.
I just had to buy an early one and they've stopped doing the exchange program for mine, £200!
If your is for the 2.8 Golf then I reckon about £70-£80.
Get your chassis number and ring VW. Then give the MAF part number to GSF.Europarts etc.
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Just pull it up with some pliers.
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Random idling, overfuelling, erratic power delivery.
Basically the engine will have a cold!
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http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?207013
Basically, a lot of idle problems and cutting out.
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I've being told the Corrado MAF sensor is unique to the Corrado (2.9)?
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GSF told me they don't do them anymore and VW no longer do the exchange program.
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Well after getting the car dragged to Awesome GTI, they've come back with a list of things that needs doing. They can't get a price for anything til Monday for obvious reasons! Any ideas for this lot? Some I already have a vague idea.
New MAF sensor. (£230ish from VW Dealer?)
ECU Speed Sensor (Haven't a clue)
Blue temp sensor (£10)
Brake Caliper (£50 already bought)
They also said that the plug had being modified so they couldn't replace the Lambda Sensor I'd bought?? That I don't get?
Any ideas on the speed sensor? Thats the big mystery price wise for me?
Cheers!
Supercharging FAQ
in Engine Tuning
Posted
Right I'm on my way to a rebuild now but the only way I'm likely to do it (as saving up everything in one go isn't going to happen!) is for me to buy the parts needed myself bit by bit and when complete get someone to do it all.
I'm unsure on everything I need though, as well as what else is worth doing whilst its been rebuilt.
Aim is for a rebuilt engine to take a stage 2 s/c reliably.
Parts I'm aware of that need replacing/worth repacing whilst the works done.
Pistons - My block will be re-used and rebored to a 'true' (is it???) 2.9, not sure on size I'd need but thinking about JE Pistons?
ARP Rod & Head Bolts - Where can you get these from?
Valves & 268 Cams - Want the head rebuilding too.
------ Still stuck on what I need for a rebuild. Help! ------
Clutch & Flywheel - Probably worth doing at the time, been told a Standard VR6 clutch can take a Stage 2 easily.
Radiator - Mines fine but a fair few years old so think i'll swap this too
Hoses - Already got a Samco Hose set waiting!
Chains/Tensioners/Water Pump - Again, prob worth doing at the time
Exhaust - Already got a Milltek Sports CAT waiting, just need the cat back system now.
General Service Items - Obviously!
Ok, what else?