Bobtrude
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Posts posted by Bobtrude
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Not talking about cutting, the heat will make the metal more maliable..... and the bolt will come out...
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Heat it up with a burner........ until it gets REAL hot. Then do the trick above.
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Yes, when we rebuild our cars like:
change headlights
turboconvert
fit coilovers all the new modifications need to go in the cars documents. If not the car doesnt have innsurance.
So to get turbo convertions approved all parts and everything that is done has to be approved by TÃœV in germany. Or decra. So my list is as follows:
Total new weight of car.
Brakes are strong enough for extra PS.
Cars construction is strong enough for extra PS.
Suspension approved
Emission test/ cycles test.
Db test.
Documentation of vehicle PS at specified boost.
wheels and tires must be approved.
So lets see how it goes in may
. As for the car, its great. I am boosting 1.1 bar/16 psi and I cant think of a cheaper and faster car
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So a little update:
Havent been driving my car to much for the last 2 years due to no MOT and the lack of TÃœV and then turbo rebuild approval from the Norwegian DMV.
Going to Germany some time this spring to get my TÃœV and then hopefully get it approved in Norway.
I have been cleaning up my enginebay and getting the car tip top so nothing goes wrong at the TÃœV.
some pics:
My apexi avcr and wideband lambda....
The re-leathered steeringwheel/gearknob/handbrake with perforated grips.
wastegate
BOV and oil breather return
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panasonic and JLaudio = perfect for me
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Would that make them ET38 (as I think the vr6 is suposed to have), and what wheels are they? are they for E-class? what year....
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yes and it would fool the maf....
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I argee, but im not sure if everybody else does
. Doesnt matter, I like them alot. Do you know what spacers you need to make them the same as a vr6 should have? -
Well since i just found out that im not going to the states I just bought these
. http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?428244Not from Ian-rogers but here in Norway.
what do you think?
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Check your oil filler cap. If its loose it can give you idle problems.
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Jepp it makes that noise if I dont wait
. If i where you I would change my gear oil and leave it to that, I have a turbo on mine and I dont plan to do anything to my gearbox before it eventually breaks;).
Ofcourse it depends how high the noise is, but try with new oil first, this is cheap and may be enough.
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I dont know about the 1. gear but it actually says in your instuctionmanual for the vr6 that you should select reverse after the car has been stationary for a couple of seconds.
It also says that you shouldnt have your hand on the lever when not changing gears (resting your hand) that may wear the syncro rings
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I dont know if my technique is the best but I drained my system and stuck a gardenhose in one tube while i kept the one on the other side of the engine open. Did this with several different tubes. Then i filled the engine with clean water, started it and drained it after the thermostat had opened and the whole engine had circulated the water.
Did this approx 4 times, then filled it with vw coolant...
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Went for a drive today, the hessitation wasnt there
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Dont know alot about macs or pcs but so guess that a cheap vagcom would be best for me
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I had an oil leak from my headgasket after installing arps and headspacer. I retorqued my bolts to 75 ft/lbs and its stopped leaking.... for now .
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I am officially inviting myself for a ride in your car
. And its been some time since your last enginebay pic.
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Good point
. Would be a smart thing to have in the glovebox...
The problem is that I have a mac and it doesnt seem to be any software for them
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Thanks, sounds great
. Think il order one, its better than to have to bring your laptop in the car
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Is this just junk or do you guys think it works.
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No i only greased the bolts, but i guess that the grease will be pushed down to the washer.
I changed my manifold gaskets and they where rusty and in the worst state so I guess my throtle hessitation will go away after this. If so the Head spacer should be tight enough.
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Dont loose faith;). Ive had my Vr for 6 years and the only thing thats gonne wrong is my thermostat and a coolant hose. And mine is turboed
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Anybody have a pick of the Mk3 with borbet LS 16"?
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Best track pads Ive ever tried.
in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
I just have to share this information with you track guys.
I have taken my vr6 turbo to about 6 or 7 trackdays and my only problem until now is brakes. I like to brake hard and late, and thats why I boil brakefluid and overheat my pads. Ive tried bigger tt-brakes but with no luck.
So i bought a set of hawk ht10 pads and a set of slotted rotors (cant remember what type) went to the track ant they where awesome!
They had good feel and just got better the warmer they got.
I also used motul dot4 brake fluid with 600 Fahrenheit boil.
This is the best setup I ever tried and all with the original vr6 brakes.
Also the pads had almost all life left after driving for one hour:).
Compared to ferrodo 2500 pads they where WAY better and with MUCH more life left (the ferrodoes where worn down to the bone after same amount of time.)
The only thing i can say is that they get screechy after trackuse so keep them for the track
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