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wfillingham

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About wfillingham

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    Cambs
  1. I would say that www.eurocarparts.co.uk are very good. I have bought lots of stuff from them. Some stuff is much cheaper than elsewhere. I completely rebuilt the air-con with parts from them. Okay, some stuff is'nt genuine, but it indicates whether it is or not, or what is the supplier.
  2. okay, to clear up any ambiguities. when I meant neutral, I did'nt actually mean zero degrees and zero minutes. It is set to minus 30 mins, ie. in other words minus half a degree. according to the tolerences, the range is minus 1 degree to minus 20 mins. ie. minus third of a degree. I suppose what your preference is how you drive the vehicle. I have been testing it round some corners, and then had a look at the tyres, and they seem okay so far. But note, I don't drive round corners at 90mph. On the straight it is much more steady, and does'nt wander about like it used to, even when the alignme
  3. This is just an update to conclude what actually happened in the end. got it done properly by apex tyres of peterborough, and was £35. They put it on a Sun laser alignment tool, and it turned out that both sides had about 1degree 40mins negative camber, and that wheel alignment was out by about 1.5 degrees. I had them set the camber to neautral, and to sort the wheel alignment. It now drives perfectly, and does not wheel spin so easily either, which it tended to do before. i suppose with neutral camber you have better tyre contact when in a straight line. As a free bit of advert for Apex tyres
  4. got the spirit level out for a quick check.... and turns out that there actually is a large amount of negative camber (top of wheel inwards?) this was based upon the RHS that has not been dismantled, and given I re-assembled the LHS with the same position this is also equal. Also, now that I have looked at it, the front wheels are visibly pointing in at the top. Basically, given it goes round corners really well, and the tyres are not wearing badly in any strange way, then I will leave the position how it is.
  5. okay.. 1. I need measure the current bolt diameter. 2. In its previous life it had huge wheels on it.... I can tell this as the plastic inner arch has been worn away..... 3. it has got lots of other various mods left on, but has standard wheels...hence, i think before I bought it, somone removed the large wheels and put them back to standard. 4. this indicates, that the bolts may have been changed then for smaller ones, and also the adjustment may still be different to standard. 5. Hence, if meausrement proves they are the non standard bolts, then i think the first thing I need to do is put t
  6. I will definately get the camber adjusted properly, as it has been ages since i had wheel alignment checked as well, so would be worth getting everything done....
  7. How much movement is there supposed to be on the bolts for a 1997 VR6... suposedly unmodified, but when I got it it did have a turret strengthening strut. When I dismantled the LHS strut, it apears that you could have a huge amount of adjustment(hub to strut), and there is no clear or accurate way to mark this, apart from scribing around where the bolts go. I have put it all back together, and got the bolts in the correct place, and it appears perfect, handles perfect etc. like it used to, but just seems bizarre that you could in theory have this huge adjustment. various manuals seem to imply
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