Jakeyb 23 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 basically , the VR6 used to not get warm , changed the stat along with water pump n crack pipe , all seals .. bled as per ... the car gets to 90 degrees when stationary but continues to rise until around 100 on the gauge when the secondary setting on the fan module kicks in i believe its the fail safe to stop as much damage as possible when overheating is about to occur,... ive driven the car after its sat still and read 90 + on the gauge and it continued to get warmer n warmer to the point where it was sat at 100 degrees on the gauge ( i understand the gauge is inaccurate but its still a point that it shouldn't be) .. pop the bonnet and had a look and its not boiling over but its still VERY hot ... Today after water pump replacement is when i decided to test the fan module 2 speed settings and discovered only setting 2 was working .. i drove the car after re bleeding it and it slowly begin to drop in temperature to 90 ish degrees but then got slightly warmer again ... MY theory is ... correct me if im wrong ... the car is displaying getting warm because stage one on the fans is not operating and bring the temperature of the coolant to a point where it is manageable by the flow of air into the rad and the efficiency of the water pump .. today when i drove it the temp came down as the coolant circulated but obviously as you drive the temp increases so again it began to get a little warmer and when the fans should of kicked it to cool it down a little they didn't, so it continued to get warm... and then the second setting fans kicked in again to save it .. so im hoping that if it replace the module for the fans and setting 1 kicks in when it should then theoretically it should stop over heating and the coolant should be at a temp where normal driving conditions would keep it circulating and at its normal temp?? Link to post Share on other sites
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