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It depends how they've gone, and who your tester is.

We've had a fair few through my work, most are bent up, but are still strong enough to be classed as ok, but even though there might not be able holes, the metal will split and seperate which would be a failure.

So it really depends on how strong the metal is, they will probably have a poke and a prod to see hw good the metal is.

And I've never jacked a mk3 up on the front sills, even with the 2v poster ramp, I always do it on the inner chassis rails.

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On the front I prefer to drive up on 2 bricks and either jack on the subframe or the flat of the wishbone, on the rear I do the same and jack on the rear beam. I've replaced my sills due to crushing and splitting and don't really want to be doing it again any time soon.

I had a go at my last MOT cos the pillock was attacking it with his fkin screwdriver like he was trying to make a hole in it no matter what the condition, so the having a tap on it is open to interpretation too it seems.

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.....having a tap on it is open to interpretation too it seems.

No its not' date=' the tester is allowed to poke a suspect area with his finger and thumb, only then if not satisfied can he use the MOT approved corrosion assessment tool which is a small plastic hammer.

Having identified the important load bearing members and ‘prescribed areas’ on a vehicle, the tester should determine whether they are excessively corroded, firstly by visual inspection and then by finger and thumb pressure.

If necessary, the Corrosion Assessment Tool should be used to assess the extent of any corrosion by careful scraping or light tapping of the affected areas.

It is important that use of the Corrosion Assessment Tool is restricted to ascertaining that the failure criteria are met and not used for heavy scraping or poking of the affected areas.

Excessively corroded metal, or metal treated with filler, emits a duller sound than unaffected metal. It is not permissible to apply heavy impact blows or to use a sharp instrument to probe at the structure,

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The official testing tool at one garage near me was a crowbar. The guy could have put a hole through armour plating the way he attacked it. Needless to say, I've not been back there.

I was surprised at just how bad (and common) this issue is on the Golf Mk3. I've had many cars of the same 'vintage' and the Golf has rotted worse than anything... including my old Rover, which shows how disgraceful the situation is (it was made out of tin foil).

I can handle panels getting rusty, but my Golf was the worst structural welding I've required. I was horrified at how bad it was for the age of the car, and considering VWs supposedly high build quality.

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thanks for all the info guys. Ive been having MOT's at the same place for about 10 years and i use to work on the yard where his garage is so he is a decent bloke but not hooky. He would fail it if he thought it was unroadworthy.

I was thinking about trying to get some sort of underseal on it to avoid any further corrosion from mud an salt this winter.

As for the MOT i guess ill just have to bite the bullet an see what happens.

My mk2 golf sills where always solid as a rock, little dissapointed at the amount of rust im finding on the VR

An the audi A4 P reg i had before this had not 1 bit of rust on the whole car!!

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