iansmattblackmk3 0 Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 hi peoplewhere is the best place to get some recon rear calipers for my m reg vr6? the bleed nipple is solid and i dont want to snap it ofta ian Link to post Share on other sites
Bigjobbo 0 Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Use a big pair of vice's on the flats of nut, if they're too tight for spanners, vice grips nice and tight do the job. Link to post Share on other sites
iansmattblackmk3 0 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 i would have done but im shit scarred of them snapping off and considering my mot is sat i didnt want to risk it. i may just soak them in wd40 next week if it pass's ( bloody outer cv boot just split ) Link to post Share on other sites
Bigjobbo 0 Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Never had one snap before, ive rounded a couple but never snapped. Get a genuine CV boot too, spurious generally only last 12-18 months. Link to post Share on other sites
iansmattblackmk3 0 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 how much are they from vw and how long to swap? Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Heat up the bleed nipple. Get a gas torch with a pretty fine tip. At work we use one of these.http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://images.toolstop.co.uk/product/33fd3705ac51e1dc7aa021eea2209d23.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.toolstop.co.uk/rothenberger-3.5669e-super-fire-2-brazing-torch-set-with-mapp-gas-clylinder-p6244&usg=__oRlj8kbHjfFiekgZWtd8thmIn_A=&h=500&w=500&sz=62&hl=en&start=0&zoom=1&tbnid=sNXkmjoGc90clM:&tbnh=152&tbnw=152&ei=DUhLTdSQJIqZOsrbjCM&prev=/images%3Fq%3Drothenberger%2Bsuper%2Bfire%2B2%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D605%26tbs%3Disch:1&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=890&vpy=71&dur=3539&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=78&ty=152&oei=BUhLTa3jI42xhQeWg-G0Dg&esq=3&page=1&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:5,s:0Heat it up slowly for a couple of minutes but be super careful not to melt any rubber, seals, flexy's etc when doing it.Eventually it'll go with a spanner without the need for grips.Once it's cracked let a tiny amount of brake fluid come out (before clamping flexy if you're removing caliper) and the fluid will lubricate the thread and allow you to get it off easier.Bit of advice. If you're going to do this, wear some safety glasses. Brake fluid tends to get super hot around the nipple and when you crack the nipple, sometimes it'll spit out brake fluid. Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 oh and CV boots aren't too bad to do.It depends how capable you are with tools and how confident you are.Before doing what everyone does 1st, which is take the wheel off. Get a screwdriver and flick the centre cap out of the wheel. You'll see a 30mm 12pt socket for the hub. I'd advise you to crack this 1st as they're super tight, before you jack the car up. Only crack it though, don't want to damage wheel bearings or joint with weight of car on it.Next you'd have to take the wheel off and pretty much remove the hub, but leave it attached at one point to make things easy.2 choices (depends on how bad bolts are)Remove the track rod end from the hub. Now the best way is to remove the bottom ball joint which is 3 x 13mm bolts underneath the bottom suspension arm. This will give you enough movement in hub/strut to get joint out of hub.. or...Keep 3 x 13mm's in and undo the 2 x 18mm bolts that attach the hub to the suspension strut. Doing it this way though WILL almost certainly knock the tracking and camber out as they're adjustable on the VR6's. This way you will struggle to get the joint out of the hub too.Remove the 30mm 12pt nub from CV joint and push through the hub so the driveshaft comes out and you can move it around.Cut the old boot off and wipe grease off. The shaft should tap off with a hammer, but they can be a bit tight. Then you can slide new boot over shaft before re-fitting the CV joint.Word of advice if the wheel just spins when trying to undo the 30mm hub nut. Put a couple of wheel bolts through disc to fix to hub. MAKE SURE THE CAR IS PROPERLY SUPPORTED AND DO NOT ACTUALLY GET INTO CAR. Put the car into 3rd gear and get somebody to put their foot on the brake. This will stop the wheel from spinning.Also if the shaft doesn't come out of the hub, DO NOT HIT JOINT WITH HAMMER! The threads come right to the end and as soon as you hit it you'll distort thread and wont be able to get hub nut back on. New joint time! You will be ok however to hit it with a rubber mallet.And finally, keep an eye on the brake flexy hose. When trying to put hub etc outwards to push joint through, the flexy's can get a bit tight. If they do just whip the calipers off with a 7mm allen key, and cable tie them to the spring just to keep them out of the way.Hope this helps! Link to post Share on other sites
iansmattblackmk3 0 Posted February 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 yeah it does help thats once i have done what you said how do i stretch the boot over the cv joint without splitting it?i am good with the spanners having not long ago got rid of my skyline that i did all the work on ( suspention, wheels, engine work etc etc ) just never did cv boots as they dont tend to go at all on the rear of skylines Link to post Share on other sites
russj249 2 Posted February 4, 2011 Report Share Posted February 4, 2011 Just knock the joint off the driveshaft. then you'll only have to push the new boot over the shaft not stretch over joint. you could cheat and get a cone and stretch boots, but these are aftermarket and tend to split again. Link to post Share on other sites
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