baz8328 0 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Just in the process of bleeding my brakes on my vr6 after havin them powder coated and rebuilt with new seals.I was wonderin if there is a right way of doin it ?i have a one man bleed kit that pressurises the system using a spare wheel (20psi)What is the correctt order of doin all 4 wheels ?Also i remember some one saying i might need to bleed the gearbox ?????? also ?????Please help ???????????? Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 BUMP Link to post Share on other sites
craggsy 91 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front then driver front Link to post Share on other sites
RAPgolfvr6182 2 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Just in the process of bleeding my brakes on my vr6 after havin them powder coated and rebuilt with new seals.I was wonderin if there is a right way of doin it ?i have a one man bleed kit that pressurises the system using a spare wheel (20psi)What is the correctt order of doin all 4 wheels ?Also i remember some one saying i might need to bleed the gearbox ?????? also ?????Please help ????????????not the gearbox but the clutch as it uses same res for the brakes and clutch but very rare you have to do it Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 right thats good to know !! Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Right did all the brakes in sequence and a slight bit of pressure is now at the pedal but no where near how it should be !!Any help ???(all brake pipes replaced , brake hoses replaced and new brake fluid) Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 i had the same problem, did the abs bleed and the 4 corner output test in vagcom and it bled more air out, after that the pressure came back Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Glad i havent done anything wrong lol Any advice on doin it I have a lead and a laptop !! Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 These are the peices of information i used when i did mine.In vagcom i also used the output test in the same way as the abs purge while pressing on the brake to try and bleed out the backs too if there was any in the rears, as the abs purge only uses the frontsoff vwvortex,IIRC there is a procedure to bleed the brakes using the vag-com.You put the car up on jacks,connect the vag-com.Select ABSthen one of the options on the ABS screen gives you the testing / bleeding procedure.You need 2 people, one to operate the vag and the brake pedal the other to bleed the brakes as required by thevag display.The software takes you through the whole process telling you when to apply brake pressure and what bleed screwsto open and close.IIRC it's just the front bleed screws used.someone else on a gti-vr6 website or something,Then cycle the pump using the VAG-COM software. To do this, choose “ABS Brakes†from the main menu.Then select “Test Output†and follow the on-screen instructions.The computer will cycle the pump, and then test each of the valve positions, one corner at a time.After this is done, you should have good brake feel again.I’ve heard that running the pump for more than 30 seconds or so could lead to the pump overheatingand susbsequent damage, so accomplish this procedure reasonably quickly.from Ross tech themselves,Procedure for Bleeding the ABS Brake Pump on VW Golf, GTI, Jetta, and Audi TT:[select][03 - ABS Brakes][basic Settings - 04]Group 001[Go!]This will trigger the ABS pump to turn on for about 10 seconds. You should hear the fairly loud pump clicking during this time.Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.Then backed up again by a rosstech employee off an audi website about bleeding a 1998 audi a3You've got a Teves 20, almost identical to the one I had in my 1997 Golf VR6. I don't think there's any harm in starting the Output Test sequence or the Bleeding Sequence (Basic Settings Group 001) and then aborting it after you've verified that the pump runs. I've done both in the distant past on the VR6 (which I sold in 2002) but neither of these is an "approved" procedure in the repair manual so I'm not going to give you any iron-clad guarantees. Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Anybody in the lincs area fancy giving me a hand ?? Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 i have the relevant leads and vag.comi have got both leads (obd1 and obd2)However lookin at my vr6 it has the obd2 slot in centre console near ash tray !!As for the obd1 lead it has 2 plugs ?? Please Help Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 OBD1 are 2 plugs, dont know where the interface is, underneath the bonnet? if your car is OBD2 its the one near the ashtray yea Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 mines a OBD2 then as it has the plug near the ash tray !However i thought mine was a obd1 due to rectangular indicators Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Theres a few ways to tell, throttle body, ABS pump, bodyworktheres an FAQ full of the pics of differences http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?106705 Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Mine is a OBD1 with a OBD2 plug is that possible ??? Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 i dont know where the OBD1 port would be as mines OBD2 ?but i would start by trying to find the OBD1 port, if its an OBD1 engine there has to be one somewhere Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Right i dont know what to do now !I have bled the system with another bottle of dot4 and stillthe peddle is soft !No more air is trapped in the lines so not sure what to do ?its been a while so not sure what the peddle felt like in the first place Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 How do you know if the master cylinder seal has gone?? Link to post Share on other sites
RAPgolfvr6182 2 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 does the peddle get hard when engine not running? also if it goes hard while engine is running then creeps down its sign of seals going Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 the peddle gets hard when i have the pressure bleed kit attached . I take that of and it gets softer . Its a bit better than what it was but not still not brill.Should i put the wheels on and run it up and down the road ??? Link to post Share on other sites
vr6stormt 0 Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 baz im going to put mine into vw main stealers to get it sorted i wil let you know whats going on with this its got to the point were it p****g me right off spent all that money uprating the brake system for them to be worse than standard set up its probably easy if you know how with the vag com but it`s just gone past the point of trying to sort this my self. Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Fingers crossed ! Link to post Share on other sites
RAPgolfvr6182 2 Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 bleed the rear brakes aswell!!! as bake lines run to opposite side ie front passanger connected ro rear driver brake and same applies to the other Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 when i press the brakes after bleeding them i can hear a noise like trapped air from near the brake resevoir .Not sure what it is ??I have un done the bleed nipple on the master cylinder and still the same . I am at my wits end !!!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites
baz8328 0 Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Just done it the old fashion way with one person pumping the brakes and another one cracking of the bleed nipples . Nearly got it back to spot on .Just goin to get the wheels back on and let the engine run and move it forward and try the brakes Fingers crossed !! Link to post Share on other sites
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