engine mounts guide/walkthrough

[lowvr 0]

i put out a post the other day on another section and i wa so pleased with the response that i thought i would put out another

my rear engine mount is leaking, so it needs changing, the others arent exactly mint either so i thought whilst its getting done i should look at replacing the others

what i want to know weather this is a job i can do on my drive with a friend or does it need to be left at the garage

...so id appreciate if someone experianced could make a step by step step on how to go about changing all 3

thanx in advance for any help

[lowvr 0]

bump

[Bigjobbo 0]

Hi mate, i'm a mech, and i would drop the subframe to do the rear two with an engine support on top. The rear two can be a right git to line up. It's possible to do them on a jack, but it will take you twice as long, and the height you have to lift the engine just means you will have disconnect more to avoid damage. Chances are your CAT bolts will be seized unless it's been done recently, which means you restricted to how high you can lift. I would recommend a garage. Hope this helps.

[xyber 1]

I did all 3 on my drive with just a trolley jack and some wooden blocks and a torque wrench, took 90mins

do the front 1st and just catch the top nut on to keep the engine in place, but liftable, then the rear completly remove the top nuts, jack up, check if you have enough room to get it out (which you wont) jack another tiny amount and check again, try not to jack up so its easily removable, you want to have to mess around with the mount trying to get it out with just about enough room, then your not damaging anything else and get ready for bleeding knuckles

[lowvr 0]

lol mixed opinions here ...i like the sound of 90 mins though

any more opinions or advice on here

[Phat VR6 3]

how did you get on with your ARB dude?

Right gearbox side

Undo the top bolt that goes thought the gearbox bracket and into the mount and remove

then surport the engine/ gearbox (more on the gearbox side) so it lifts up a tad

Undo the 3 13mm bolts that hold bracket onto the gearbox and remove (give you alot more space to work with)

Now undo and remove the 2 15mm ( i think) that hold the mount into the cup on the sub frame

Pull the mount out, New gearbox mount in and put to together and you removed

Front one

Remove top bolt that goes though engine/ gearbox bracket

Jack engine up slowly as much as you can, Checking down the back where the exhaust lays to make sure your not damaging anythink

Remove bottom nut under the sub frame

Try and get it out the space

If there isn't enough room then you can remove the front engine mount bracket, Think there's one 17mm going though into the box and another long bolt that shares the starter motor. Removing this will give loads of room to work with

Never changed the rear engine one so i don't know what needs to be done

You don't have to drop the sub frame but if the 2 back ones need doing at the same time it might work out quicker

Hope this helps Tom

[xyber 1]

I found the rear engine one easier than the gearbox mount, only extra work is removing and refitting the heatsheild that protects the mount and the clip that holds the connector for the lambda probe

[lowvr 0]

i think i may give this a go too

the arb work went well...

the front was going well untill it came to getting the bushes in for the new one. one of the bushes went in nicely, but the second one just would not want to go in under the retaining clip.

the rear wasnt bad either, i found the clamps supllied were just a little short of making the job easy, but some swearing soon cured that. also found that i had to drop the dampers to get the lower bolts (on the suspension arm) to clear the exhaust and fuel tank, so whilst i was there i changed the rear top mounts