big dave 2.8 0 Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 hi just wondered if anyone could help when after putting my foot down then coming off the pedal i sometimes get a massive cloud of smoke come out the back. also sometimes say driving down a hill get to the bottom brake then pull away i normaly always get a big cloud of smoke doesnt do it running or on start up only when pulling away really. Link to post Share on other sites
adam_christie 0 Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Sounds like valve stem seals mate. How many miles has your car done? May as well swap your tappets and valve guides while you're there, and if you're not going to use a compressor to hold your valves up (i.e. taking the head off) you may as well change your head gasket.........you don't have to change all that mind, but if you don't get your guides done your new seals will only last another 25K miles at best. New tappets are always a good thing, but you can clean them too with a little patience. Link to post Share on other sites
big dave 2.8 0 Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 had an engine change but i think it has hit the 100 thousand engine sounds and runs very good dont know if im better off running for a bit more then put a re con one in hurd you can get them for about 1500 plus vat.also ive been told a thicker oil might help is this true? running 10w40 at the mo after i changed the oil two weeks ago it does seem better. Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Valves &/or rings all the way to the bank m8 - as Adam_christie said. Thicker oil will "plug the gaps" but........ puts more pressure on stuff - so it will fail quicker (than it was going to - not always in 10 minutes time) and usually in style! Thick oil is a Dodgy 2nd hand salesman trick ..... So always use the right stuff as you are the chap on the side of the road!Only advice I can give you on this recon stuff is the same as with everything. "You gets wot you pays for"! So check what they change on the rcon engine - Valves/rings/bearings/guides/Blackety Blank check book and pen!!!!! If you recon your own - change everything you can whilst you're there! It pays off in the end !Good Luck Link to post Share on other sites
big dave 2.8 0 Posted November 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Thanks for that RCF can i get a kit to re build the engine i want to do it properly planning on keeping the car first vr ive owned and i love it lol.what kind of price would i be looking at and would it be best to do top and bottom end ive hurd the bottom ends are very strong.plus money getting tight getting all the car smothed at the moment cl rear window be-sting filled side repeters t4 vent and all the bumpers filled ready for a re spray in the new year and still looking for a charger. think i might have to have a word with me local bank and be nice to the boss. Link to post Share on other sites
adam_christie 0 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Sounds like you've got a lovely project planned mate! Just take it easy on the VR for now. Get the mechanics sorted before you do anything else. Thats what I'm doing with mine before I spend any money buying wheels/chargers/exhausts/induction kits etc. You can find out if the rings have gone by getting the cylinders tested for compression, and if they're fine you're onto a winner cos all you'll need to sort will be the valve stem seals etc. If you're planning a charger then you may aswell get the head off and plonk in a metal head gasket. This will take your compression ratio down to 1:9, and without a charger it'll be a little slow (on my mates G60 Corrado the power output went down to 89Bhp when the boost pipe popped off!) until you get your vortech/bahn brenner/z-engineering charger on there. Link to post Share on other sites
rodney 17 Posted November 17, 2006 Report Share Posted November 17, 2006 Not sure on the price for these bits but worth downloading a brocure or popping in to GSF and they can run through it with you for the parts & prices. I get them to swing the screen round so I can see the picture or the exploded views! I don't have a bently pic I can let you have I am afraid.Once you've got your list you can surf for good deals.As the guys say. Check your compression to start with then move on to the top end if all is well. If you are a high miler then look at the usual suspects on the top end. Worth thinking about the shims/belts(chains) and tensioners whilst you're there. Especially if you are adding s/c later in life.I have always got all parts and then return what I dont use. Also means you can compare new for old and see if they are ok or need to be changed - with no mid-build trips to the motorfactors. Plus it is nice to get money back off what was a worst case deal. Makes me feel like I got a deal!Usually I would expect the bottom end to be solid and you may not need to do this. Soon find out tho' when you have nose!As a note: If you do replace stuff that will put pressure on the aspects it interacts with as you would expect - nice and tight the new stuff! So don't just check the part you are replacing. Look at the whole area. Usually if you catch it early like it seems you have all is good and you just have to swap the worn parts, but worth a check whilst you are there.Other than that try and get a manual and you can always ask on line for support, the odd specialist tool from a member etc, whilst doing it.Goodluck Link to post Share on other sites
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