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pfnsht last won the day on December 5 2018

pfnsht had the most liked content!

About pfnsht

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  • Birthday 02/25/1983

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    VWs, Cars, Cycling, Running

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  1. Hey all, Looking to tap into some expertise knowledge. I've been researching various threads online and made maintenance changes to my car to try and get the bottom of my slightly rough idle and warm starting issue. History of the car 95 Corrado VR6, 150k, full service history (serviced every year). No error codes (except ABS = pump) Symptoms Idle is intermittently (more so than not) a bit rough. VCDS sees it fluctuating around 40rpm say 640-680rpm on idle. Attached is the VCDS log, this reading was done a few months ago but idle drops every say 3 seconds however it recently feels more frequent. I'll try and get an updated reading. Can't see it on the tacho but can feel it in the cabin. Car starts fine from cold but when warm it cranks and cranks (10+) before firing up. Drive fine, fuel economy seems reasonable, tail pipe a bit sooty though. Doesn't stall even though the idle is weird and feels powerful but it's always been like this since owning. Parts changed Cam sensor (fault code) Crank Sensor Thermostat + the 3 sensors Rad fan switch (fans were not working properly) Fuel Pump Relay Spark Plugs HT Leads Coilpack (had a crack in it) I've installed a one-way valve on the fuel line from the pump (corrado forum -> a few people have done it, some found it cured hot start issue - I didn't get the logic but it was only a few quid). New Fuel Filter New FPR valve I've sprayed carb cleaner around hoses to search for vacuum leaks (is there a better method than this?) New PCV valve (old one was cracked) I'm left with the fuel pump itself and injectors. One avenue to investigate is leaking injectors - looking at the bolts around the manifold it doesn't look like they've ever come off so believe injectors have never been serviced. I've read leaking injectors could cause hot start issues and a rough idle. Likewise with the pump it's VDO and was caked in rubbish so guessing it's original too: it's pretty silent in operation, could that mean it's weak? Does anyone know how to use VCDS and measuring blocks to analyse injectors or the pump? Is there anything else to check? If it's not these things I fear it could be mechanical but the car doesn't use oil (no smoke on idle or whilst driving - i've been followed by the wife to check) and isn't using any water. Thanks! Matt Vcds.xlsx
  2. Candy VR

    They washed it down with a power washer, allowed to dry, then steam. Next day applied treatment to rust areas (mine was pretty solid and only had surface on the jacking points) the dinitrol applied. I could imagine your drive might get messy but it is definitely do-able at home. If I had more space I would have done it.
  3. Candy VR

    It cost £460. It included a clean, rust treatment (converter) and then dinitrol. I went for the most expensive option so it’s been blown in all box sections. It looks brand new underneath!! I took it to a place In Hoddesdon that is registered as a dinitrol specialist. They work on landrovers and aren’t a bodyshop but do have a dedicated booth for this sort of work. I considered doing it myself but couldn’t face the mess!!
  4. Candy VR

    Swapped fuel relay and installed a one way valve on the fuel line near pump. Yet to see if it improves my hot start issue as it got dark and my headlight switch broke. Maybe I should have got something newer!! My idle is still a bit rough - feel vibration in the cabin but no bouncing on tacho. Not sure what the issue is, hopefully injectors or pump rather than something mechanical .... it’s not using oil or water or being smokey.
  5. Candy VR

    Thanks buddy, gives me comfort it’s protected but now I don’t want to get it dirty ?.
  6. Corrado VR6 for sale (Bodywork Issues)

    I would say you'd have to love to car and want to keep it to get the bodywork done. Unless you know someone that little lot could tot up to a couple of grand and you'll probably not get it back on the sale price and time soon. Sadly it's worth a lot more in bits. Unfortunately a lot of them will be broken and that might mean those that love them and kept the sweet might have a valuable car on their hands. Maybe. They'll at least have a fantastic driving cool car whatever happens to prices! I have one and have spent £2k on getting bodywork bits sorted. I will likely sink a respray in at some point too but I love the car. Even though something always wants fixing!
  7. Candy VR

    Ugghh and now it's slightly lowered on the B12 kit I feel it needs some spacers to push the wheels out a little. Spending never ceases (but I'd be bored if there wasn't a to do list!)
  8. Candy VR

    Next job is to tackle the hot start issue. Starts on circa 3 crank when cold but takes 8-12 cranks when warm and left for 15-45ish mins. The idle can be intermittently rough (just a minor vibration you can feel but can't see on the tacho - VAG-COM sees it as something like 640-680 on idle. So far I have: Read codes (cam shaft sensor), replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, new FPR valve, new thermostat, new thermostat sensors, new rad fan switch (unrelated), new sparks, leads, coilpack (cracked) and fuel filter. I'm left with fuel pump and injectors - feel free to chip in to help me solve! A people have chipped in on the Corrado forum and suggested a non-return valve and a bit of 8mm pipe on the fuel pump and changing the fuel pump relay. This is relative pennies so will try it. I've also bought a new fuel filler cap cause it was a tenner but don't really expect it to do anything. If this doesn't work then the injectors are coming out for a refurb and then perhaps the fuel pump. I can't think of anything else left to replace! A few corrado owners have this hot start issue - is it Corrado specific or VR6 general?
  9. Candy VR

    Update - car undersealed with Dinitrol and any rust treated. Car wasn't that bad underneath but wanted this done to keep it sweet.Bilstein B12 kit fitted (need better pics as my drive is a slope). I had new rubber bits and top mounts fitted too and a Hunter alignment following. The car is is completely different to drive and much more comfortable vs the old standard stuff which was pretty knackered to be fair.All work done by CSK Automotive is Hoddesdon. They are a Land Rover specialist but work on other cars. Chris is a great bloke and is into the VAG scene - has a lovely wrapped Audi R8. Before Pics After
  10. Candy VR

    Jobs done over the last week:SunroofNew Sunroof mech fitted along with Stuart's B4 moonroof. I cleaned and serviced the mech with lube as much as I could without disassembly. The moonroof is sitting a touch too low at the back so need to fettle a bit more, at the moment it is pushed to the top of the adjusters though so need to figure out how to get the whole thing higher. Let me know any tips.ABSABS sensor brake position sensor fitted - fault cleared - all good.Sill have a semi intermittent ABS fault with the pump but have a spare to fit at some point. Probably get my mechanic to do it as I haven't bled brakes before.Oil LeakSourced oil leak - easy one - low pressure (0.25bar) oil sensor (PN 028 919 081 D). Also replacing high pressure sensor (1.4bar) next to it (PN 068 919 081 D) as only a few quid.These are easy to change with an extension and joint on your socket wrench. You'll need a deep 24mm socket. Don't forget to push a metal washer on too (my meyle from vwheritage sensors came with new ones). SuspensionSaturday the car goes in for rust treatment and undersealing with Dinitrol. I haven't got much rust under there but the factory underseal is flaking away and it's only a matter of time before I do get rust. Bilstein B12 suspension will also be fitted now I have received replacement rear springs from Eibach.For those interested - there is an issue with the rear springs supplied with the B12 kit. They sit too low at the rear, basically on the bump stops. I wanted my drop to be more consistent with the front so had them send me out (via Larkspeed who have been very helpful) new rears.Incorrect rear PN EW 851 3002 HACorrect rear PN 850 2002 HA
  11. Candy VR

    Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up. There were two hard bits to this job:1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.The procedure:1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.2. Remove bits from engine bay to gain good access to remove the circlip. You'll need a mirror so you can see what you're doing to get it off. I have a set of hook and picks that I used a couple of to get it off.3. Sensor removed, make sure you have the o-ring too and don't lose the circlip either! 4. Sensor disassembled. I took it apart by picking out the factory sealant and using an electricians screwdriver to pry it apart, without putting too much strain on the outer casing. It was a fiddly job and took a while to free it apart . 5. I've never soldered before. First I cleaned up old solder from the joints by heating it up with the iron and using the solder vacuum sucker thing the extract it. I then re-soldered the circuit board to the points. 6. I then losely put it back together and tested it using my multi meter. I haven't used this before either but googled. I looked for the symbol ".)))" which I googled as meaning continuity. I then hooked the red and black testers to the points on the sensor. I got a reading between 250 to 850 as I slid the plunger thing in and out. 7. I then got some clear sealant from the shed and put it back together. I'm waiting 24 hours for it to dry and should be able to re-fit it on Wednesday. Fingers crossed this fixes my issue.Next jobs booked are full under carriage steam clean and re-seal with Dinitrol and the Bilstein B12 is being fitted at the same time. Hopefully will get some pictures.
  12. Candy VR

    Sunroof - having spent £170 on a replacement corrado roof that snapped within a week I've now bought a replacement Mk3 Golf roof with a clear moonroof for £35.I don't have a garage currently and haven't got round to fitting it. I'm concerned the glass panel will have a different shape to the Corrado roofline so the back up plan will be to find a Passat B4 moonroof instead, if I can find one.The car also has no headlining at the moment whilst I wait to start this job. The headlining had completely sagged anyway and I am planning on re-trimming it.
  13. Candy VR

    I do have a set of Bilstein B12's purchased in Apr plus I bought associated rubber bits and bolts and top mounts to refresh suspension when fitted.However the suspension kit may be sold this weekend as I need the funds to repair the rust and may as well protect the underside at the same time. I also need to pool some money to set aside any mechanical work, such as the chains, that might be needed in the future. Mr sensible is boring.If I sell I will just replace my leaking front shocks with some Sachs Advantage shocks instead and do the rears another day. If the sale falls through then I'll just keep them and do a bit of DIY on the rusty bits to keep anything at bay (none of the rust can be seen fortunately).Interestingly having written down everything I have done this year doesn't seem nearly as much as it feels I have done and spent this year!
  14. Candy VR

    Jobs completed in 2018Mechancials:1. Full Service2. ABS front sensor replacement3. Thermostat, 3 sensors in housing plus rad fan switch.4. Fuel Pressure Regulator5. Coil Pack & HT Leads replaced6. Handbrake adjusted7. 2 new tyresBodywork:1. 10p rust patch on sunroof fixed and lid resprayed2. New boot lid fitted and resprayed 3. Both sills and the top treated for rust and repainted4. All arches treated and protected as rust was starting to creep in.5. Small scabs forming on leading edge of bonnet sorted6. Rear towing eye treated for rust and resprayed.6. Wheels refurbishedPicture from body shop
  15. Candy VR

    Hey all, I have a RR thread elsewhere so the first few posts will be bringing thread to date. Owned the car since the beginning of 2018 and am finally getting around to starting my thread to showcase pictures jobs done to the car. Background on the car:1995 VR6Purchased with 149k with full service history (serviced every year)Standard exampleIt has had a blow-over respray at some point in its original colour - Candy White. Looks nice from a distance but not perfect around deals.Everything worked* on purchaseThe car as it stands today @ 151k: Current list of jobs:- Sunroof no longer works and the replacement I put in at a cost of £170 snapped within a week.- Noticed some rust on the A Pillar behind internal trim. Not visible on the outside and probably caused due the windscreen trim being cracked directly above the rust patch.- ABS light on occasionally. Says it's the Brake Pedal Sensor (mostly).- Suspension wants refreshing- Leather or Recaro's (don't we all).- I want to preserve the underside with underseal.More to follow on the jobs done this year...