Jump to content

red_rocket

Members
  • Content Count

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by red_rocket

  1. A fluid change is unlikely to fix a missing gear.

     

    Assuming its a 01M transmission this is how it works.

     

    You move the selector lever which rotates an actuator rod in the gearbox. For reverse and park the rod does mechanical interlock type stuff.

    For the forward gears, cam faces machined on the rod act on the multifunction switch (MFS) which is a big white thing on the rear side of the gearbox facing the firewall.

    This generates a 2 or 3 bit code on individual wires which are sent to the gearbox computer. This is located under the rear seat on a Golf but could be anywhere on a T4.

    The gearbox computer then controls the solenoids in the gearbox to select the correct ratios. Again the solenoid signals are sent on individual wires to a multiway connector on the top of the gearbox.

     

    The solenoids inside the gearbox are connected to this external connector using a flexi circuit, all of which sit in the gearbox oil.

     

    Its commonly reported for a solenoid or the flexi circuit (flimsy connectors to the solenoid) to have failed. You can check the continuity from the gearbox computer plug using a meter, with the wiring diagram from the repair manual. The solenoids have specific coil resistances. You can also check all of this with VagCom.

     

    Alternatively one of the outputs from the MFS could be short circuited to 0V or broken, or the switch itself could be faulty.

     

    If the solenoids or flexi circuit need repair then access is via the sump, so you will need to change the fluid and filter anyway. The MFS is above the oil level so can be removed when the engine is not running. The MFS is retained by a clamp held on by a single bolt.

     

    Although the gearbox ECU has a CAN connection to the engine ECU, the connection to the gearbox is entirely discrete, and uses lots of wires.

    Problems with any one of these can cause strange problems which a new gearbox or gearbox computer will not cure.

    Most people give up, but your problem sounds fixable.

     

    Good luck.

    Cheers Pete

  2. Now sold

     

    Set of tatty original BBS alloy wheels for Golf Mk3 VR6 1997 - P Reg

     

    Sound, with minimal damage, but need a refurb.

    Balance up OK and only leaked air due to corrosion when the car was in storage for the last 2 years.

     

    Toyo T1R 205/50/15 89V tyres included - which are about 4 years and 20K miles old.

     

    Also advertised on ebay.

     

    Buyer must collect from CM6 1BY (near Stansted airport).

     

    Best offer over £40 secures from a VR6OC member.

     

    Would consider selling individually (£15 each), if anyone wants proper spare or to replace a damaged one.

    IMG_1013.JPG

    IMG_1014.JPG

    IMG_1015.JPG

    IMG_1016.JPG

    IMG_1017.JPG

    IMG_1018.JPG

    IMG_1019.JPG

    IMG_1020.JPG

    IMG_1021.JPG

    IMG_1022.JPG

    IMG_1023.JPG

    IMG_1024.JPG

  3. Good used condition, some surface rust, but otherwise very good.

     

    These are very firm and lower the car by about 40mm front and rear.

    Available as went back to "standard" for insurance purposes.

     

    Also advertised on ebay, but £20 cash to a VR6OC member.

     

    Buyer must collect from CM6 1BY (near Stansted airport).

     

    Please note that the front springs are designed to fit the 110mm top hat - which is included.

    Some later cars (like mine) have the 90mm top hat.

     

    Cheers Pete

     

    IMG_1008.JPG

    IMG_1009.JPG

    IMG_1010.JPG

    IMG_1011.JPG

    IMG_1012.JPG

  4. Put it back to standard by changing the airbox and the springs, so I could take out the Hastings policy.

    It's a standard policy so might have a struggle with the valuation of the VR6 in the event of a fault claim.

     

    I will defo go back to the classic policy in 2 years time, when the "car loan" finishes.

    These really are good value from the specialists and are not bothered about normal mods.

     

    Cheers Pete

     

     

     

     

     

     

  5. Hi,

    I made a similar enquiry recently, actually for exactly the same vehicle type.

     

    I was told that you can't get classic insurance for a driver under the age of 25. I was trying to put my son on my classic policy, so he could drive the car while his was being "borrowed" by my daughter when she was back from university. The joys of parenthood!

     

    I did however get some online pricings for normal policies for my son, who is 21 with 3 years NCD on the same vehicle.

     

    Hastings £500 for a standard car.

    Flux £1300 for declared mods to suspension and air filter.

     

    So a huge difference, meaning it would be cheaper to return the car to standard. But, how many 20 year old cars are standard?

     

    Next step is a specialist. I am going to try HIC tomorrow - who came back with £1250.

    So back to standard it is then :-(

     

    Cheers Pete

     

     

  6. Hi,

     

    After a brush with some new anti car kerbs at Cambridge station (aka tank traps) I am in need of a recommended diamond cut alloy wheel repairer in the Essex area.

     

    Any suggestions? I will be getting all 4 wheels done, but only 2 have the bad kerbing. They are all straight and only damaged on the outside face.

     

    Thanks Pete

  7. Hi,

     

    No, the battery is just for starting really.

     

    Once the engine is running the alternator does everything including charging the battery.

     

    You need to measure voltages and impedance first to make sure everything is OK.

     

    HIDs can generate a lot of electrical noise, which could be upsetting things, especially if anything is bit marginal.

     

    Good luck,

    cheers Pete

  8. Hi,

    That sounds normal to me. Most cars have an input to the engine ECU from the air conditioning because of the extra load it puts on the engine.

    Likewise, if you have got electric power steering, or sometimes even the lights.

     

    I would check the battery voltage with nothing on (greater than 12.8V if your battery is good) and then check the charging voltage with the engine running. This should be greater than about 13.8V under all conditions.

     

    You should also check the impedance of the earth straps (i.e. battery to chassis and battery to engine). 

    You can measure the impedance directly (best to disconnect the battery) or measure the voltage across the strap (hence impedance via ohms law) when running normally. This is problem with a lot of older cars and can give weird symptoms, not just charging problems.

     

    Cheers Pete

     

     

×
×
  • Create New...