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HOTSHOT III

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Posts posted by HOTSHOT III

  1. Evening guys, just done a Haldex oil/filter change on my 2002 V6 4Motion.

     

    Those of you who've done this, how tight did you do the drain plug on the bottom of the Haldex unit? Bentley manual says 25Nm which to my mind would rip the thread clean out as it's only a fine M10 thread going into alloy.

     

    Some people on forums say 15Nm and when I spoke to a couple of independent VAG garages one said "just nip it up, it's only a drain plug" and the other advised tightening to 5-10Nm and painting a small line across the plug/casing in order to see if it's moved after a week or so. I've done this (10Nm with a new washer), been for a spirited (i.e not public-spirited) 25 mile drive on fairly bumpy/twisty roads and it hasn't moved/leaked so i'm inclined to leave it 1f642.png:-)

     

    Thanks, interested to hear everyone's view on this!!

  2. 38 minutes ago, Pjc said:

    Mine was like this in the new year - not starting well once warm. Was advised to change the coolant temperature sensor. Once changed and the error code cleared on the ecu everything was fine again.

    It is not the easiest sensor to get out and replace.

    That's the error code i've been given, going to pick up my temp sensor this morning. Will update this in due course, thanks for your help!

  3. Hey guys,

    Last night I drove my V6 4Mo about 30 miles in the rain and stopped for fuel. I noticed the pumps were wet where you hold them but as far as I could tell the actual nozzle (i.e the bit you stick in the car) was dry to the touch so I thought it was OK to use.

    After paying, when turning the engine over it wouldn't fire unless I pressed the accelerator pedal, stalled when pulling out of the filling station and was a little hesitant to accelerate for about 4 miles after which it cleared itself.

    When I stopped again after 8 miles I still had to press the pedal to get it to start but it seemed to perform fine after that (drove another 6 miles home, overtook a truck and it didn't miss a beat).

    Today I went out and started the car from cold and it started and ran faultlessly, drove 8 miles whereupon I again had to press the gas pedal to start it. Shortly afterwards it stalled pulling out of a junction after being driven hard and was again difficult to start.

    This only seems to happen when the car is at operating temperature, i.e 90 degrees on the temp gauge. In the process of putting it on ramps today to check various things I started it with the temp gauge between zero and 90 twice and each time it started and ran perfectly.

    I did take off the fuel filter to check the fuel pump operation and one or two small water droplets (about enough in total to cover a 20p piece in around 100ml of fuel) came out with the fuel, but nowhere near enough to cause a problem IMO, I mean a little bit like that would just sit at the bottom of the fuel filter which is about the size of a coke can. 

    Surely even if a droplet of water did go in the tank, it wouldn't be enough to cause this and it wouldn't happen straight away after adding £10 worth to a basically full tank of fuel and the injection system fully primed and everything? This happened to anyone else? Thanks!

  4. 2 hours ago, mattvr6 said:

    Ur checking the right one yea? i own the same car and I'm a vw tech there fiddly and tucked away, have u done any data logging?

     Looking at the engine from the front (i.e stood in front of the car), it's behind and to the right of the oil filter housing. Held onto the block by a 5mm allen head screw and has a grey 3-pin connector which clips onto a metal tang next to the dipstick tube

  5. 10 hours ago, mattvr6 said:

    Bde have individual coils, could still be the crank sensor breaking down,even tho it " checks out" not a nice job either

    TBH I managed to do the check by driving the front onto ramps yesterday and replacing it doesn't look all that hard, my main concern is whether to buy one and try it.

     

    I hear what you're saying, lots of people are saying crank sensor but they're £80 + VAT from TPS, dead money if it's not the culprit.

     

    Anyone in the Bournemouth area with a BDE whose sensor I could try?

  6. My 2002 BDE 4Mo has a misfire between 5 and 6000rpm at which point the EPC light illuminates both when accelerating hard and revving in neutral. Also when starting it always fires straight away but then the idle immediately drops and picks up again, once or twice this has caused it to cut out but it always starts again.

     

    Other than this the car goes very well and has always been reliable since I bought it in July.

     

    Yesterday after my local garage diagnosed a 16705 (G28 engine speed sensor) fault code I followed all the steps in Stage 2 above and my crank sensor checks out (819 ohms across terminals 2-3).

     

    I'm going to take a look at all the old school things like plugs, fuel filter etc (A car I once owned lost power going uphill and changing the fuel filter cured it, turned out the old one was full of rust because the previous owner used to run around with a fiver's worth of fuel in the tank and the first thing I did was to fill it up which helpfully washed the rust off the tank walls as I drove). Air filter looks fairly clean.

     

    Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks and happy new year to all :) 

     

     

  7. 7 hours ago, Liam_0404 said:

    Think that fault code is Crank Sensor, try that first as it shouldn't cost too much! My coilpack was over £200 as I have the all in one unit emoji51.png AUE engine.

    A few other people have suggested that TBH but today I followed the steps in this forum thread and the resistances of my crank sensor check out:

     

     

  8. 16 hours ago, Liam_0404 said:

    Is it when you boot it that you get the misfire?

    Yes, only when accelerating hard between 5-6000rpm (although EPC light illuminates when revving the engine to this speed in neutral also).

     

    Just got back from the garage who diagnosed a 16705 fault code, i'm told this relates to G28 engine speed sensor?

  9. Hi Guys,

    2002 V6 4Motion (BDE), misfire between 5 and 6000 rpm accompanied by "EPC" engine management light (aaarrgghh!). Still at least I know it hasn't been gaffa taped over like some.

    Owner's manual advises taking the car to a dealership ASAP, any other way to read the fault code? I'm pretty sure I can do the work myself as long as I can find out what the problem is.

    Thanks and happy new year to all on here :-) 

  10. 1 hour ago, VR6CABBS said:

     


    Unfortunately this is only a single day event and there's no camping. But feel free to come
    Along for the day if you like. It's a fair old drive for you pal but I've done the long run ones all in a day. Or if you take a look in the events section at VW festival in Leeds next weekend then that one is a full weekend. We (The Club) will be there from the Friday to the Sunday. In my eyes Tatton Park and VW fest are probably the best shows at the moment.

    Let me know what you think and I can get something sorted for you for a pass. emoji106.png

     

    Thanks for the quick response, as you say it's a long way to come just for the day so Leeds the following weekend might be a better idea :)

  11. As stated in another thread i'm looking to buy one of these, preferably enthusiast owned with FSH and less than 100K miles.

     

    Is there anything you should look out for on the Golf V6 4Mo at particular mileages? What typically goes wrong, and at what kind of age/mileage?

     

    And is the Bora V6 4Mo the same performance wise and mechanically?

     

    This forum is a godsend for people like myself who haven't owned many VAG cars so thanks in advance, hope someone can help :) 

  12. Excellent thread, i'm looking at buying a 4Mo and this has been very useful :)

     

    One thing worth mentioning though, you should never mix DOT 4 and DOT 5 fluid due to DOT 5 being silicone based. According to Wikipedia:

     

    DOT 5 is one of several North American designations of automotive hydraulic brake fluid, denoting a particular mixture of chemicals imparting specified ranges of boiling point.

    DOT 5 is a silicone-based brake fluid (contains at least 70% by weight of a diorgano polysiloxane[1]).

    Unlike polyethylene glycol based fluids, Dot 5 is hydrophobic.[2] An advantage over other forms of brake fluid is that silicone has a more stable viscosity index over a wider temperature range. Another property is that it does not damage paint.[citation needed]

    Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing will cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure.[citation needed] DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. DOT 5 brake fluid absorbs a small amount of air requiring care when bleeding the system of air.[citation needed]

    Boiling points[edit]

    Minimal boiling points for these specifications are as follows (wet boiling point defined as 3.7% water by volume):

    Boiling point ranges [3]
      Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
    DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
    DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
    DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
    DOT 5.1 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
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