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dubvr691

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Everything posted by dubvr691

  1. In you dp you've got a supercharged vr6, is that just a pic or your actual car ?
  2. It's looking like it's going to need a new clutch, possibly stage 2 carbon Kevlar, think iv properly glazed the organic one that's in atm, it's not biting much at all anymore not even enough to get through the garage ramp out the yard atm, probably will get one when ordering next clutch
  3. Had a new battery fitted after clutch & flywheel change, all was well initially on 1st stationery start up, till I tried to move,N would immediately cut off as catching the biting point, realized that I'd trapped the front nock sensor wire under the front mount, after freeing the cable all was well, apart from a rough idle, had the earth wires fitted incorrectly, after rectifying it was alright, had a lil local drive last week and no issues, got home in one piece Broke down today though driving along normally n all of a sudden speedometer dial started clicking follow
  4. I'm new n growing, guess I'll make a space for it soon
  5. Yup getting to know that now, nice 1 thanks, something new to deal with tomorrow, cheers
  6. 1st time bleeding, didn't know of any other way but pump the pedal n close valve
  7. Sweet cheers keep that in mind, you mentioned 15psi, is that pressure fluid is pump to ??
  8. Does that kit fasten on to the bleeder valve or reservoir top? Yea I'm a big stupid like that n kinda got a heavy foot n might be an angry driver
  9. Your 1st drive on new clutch, did you take it extra easy or went 4 it
  10. I'm not 100 % sure what fluid it was, had same'ish colour & smell kinda took his word for what it was. when bleeding, the cap on reservoir should be closed right ?
  11. Peddle Used to feel alot stiffer on the old clutch n biting point was little wider and further back then it is now all 4 parts are new pressure plate through out bearing clutch & flywheel No only bled it out the once on both sides could it be the wrong fluid inside it might be wrong?
  12. Peddle Used to feel alot stiffer on the old clutch n biting point was little wider and further back then it is now all 4 parts are new pressure plate through out bearing clutch & flywheel No only bled it out the once on both sides could it be the wrong fluid inside it might be wrong?
  13. Got a supercharged vr6, just had new lightened flywheel & clutch fitted, still seems to be slipping in drive n just revving over without actually delivering any Power or drive If I really really really granny drive I can get it to eventually pick up speed without it slipping, but who with a supercharged vr6 can bare that... What exactly is this break in period and how exactly am I to go about it, on the parts info sheets it mentions 500mile break in period? ? ? Anyone know anything about this
  14. Got a clutch master slave cylinder for a t4 instead of the vr6 version, can I still use it by just taking the loop end off?¿?
  15. If you can see the chains, find the timing mark just to be on safe side since it's open anyway yeah sometimes a quick clean n tighten up is all it needs but check the cable too, had similar issues with engine nock sensor end of cable being loose,
  16. I'd say to search the Web for what you're codes are representing 1st or get a garage to run it, that would give you more of a specific point of view as to what is causing the issue, after that it's up to you though how confident n competent you feel towards tackling it
  17. Any engine out of sync on timing can be potentially catastrophic depending on the amount it's out by, best to get it re clabrated n timing set ASAP without any extra miles being put on unnecessarily, if you can hear it nocking or idle has gone rough already best not to drive it any further till rectified
  18. Pretty sure the intake starts at front left then stagers across, so second intake is far left back then back to front next one along, thers the 2 cams at the top short n long being front n back, at the bottom is crank shaft only, think thers a vagcom list online of fault codes if you Google it
  19. Pretty sure the intake starts at front left then stagers across, so second intake is far left back then back to front next one along, thers the 2 cams at the top short n long being front n back, at the bottom is crank shaft only, think thers a vagcom list online of fault codes if you Google it
  20. Yeah tell me about it, we'll iv ordered a replacement master cylinder, hopefully it'll be what it takes to solve this issue
  21. Yeah thers a fair bit of pressure in it, but while fastening am I to have the clutch pedal pressed before fastening, because atm iv put it back together but the clutch keeps slipping drastically in drive and is simply not putting any Power down at all, nothing past 3000rm its just slipping on, I understand iv to bed the clutch & flywheel in over next several 100 miles, but would a fresh clutch be a reason for it to be slipping like this or have I got something wrong with re assembly
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