reynolds9000

Updating to help anyone in the future looking for this info. With a 2.5” pulley and dual idler pulley’s, a 59.2” belt will work, and is what I currently have installed but I’ve had to max out the tension adjustability on the blower to get it tight enough. I have not driven the car yet, as I have yet to install the oil pan. I have ordered a 58” belt that I’m going to put on after I get the car running and any bugs worked out. With the 59.2” belt there is easily two to three inches of slack making it super easy to install, but like I said it requires you to max out the tension on the charg

Looking for some pictures of what people have done to route the oil return line for a Vortech V2. Is there any way to avoid drilling? I’ll be starting the install soon and need to get this type of thing done in advance so it’s as easy as can be on the day I bolt everything on.

I’m trying to get all the information I need prior to installing a Vortech V2 charger on my AAA VR6. The kit I’m getting includes the Vortech diverter valve. Just looking to see if anyone has pictures of their setup and how it is connected? I am still learning about forced induction. My understanding is that a diverter valve is vacuum operated so I’d need to connect vacuum from the intake manifold. Is that correct? My setup would be: air filter, MAF, diverter valve, charger, throttle body. Any pics or useful info is appreciated!

Yes, I’m in the USA. I’ve exhausted all those suggestions as they only carry belts for cars that equipped with air conditioning. ECS sells one but it’s $106 and I just can’t justify spending that kind of money on a serpentine belt that should be in the $25-40 range. A part number or just a confirmation on the length would be very helpful if anyone knows.

I have found so much conflicting information in my seemingly endless hours searching for a definitive part number/brand. I am looking to install a Vortex V2 Charger with a 2.5” pulley on my AAA VR6. I have deleted air conditioning and need to know what belt to buy. I have read anywhere from 53” to 59” but no one can provide part numbers. Help please!

an inch and a half of slack! holy crap I'm surprised it's running at all. sounds like the upper tensioner bolt has completely failed and if you're having misfire issues and you have verified that the camshaft timing is off I would say there is a good chance that with so much slack in the upper chain that the engine has jumped timing and potentially bent a valve or two (or more). at the minimum a compression test is in order to rule out valve train damage. I can't imagine that with so much slack in the upper chain that it didn't make any of the tell-tale noises VR6 timing chains are known to

ok thanks anyhow.

good work! sounds great

try removing the starter and applying 12 volts directly to the solenoid to see if it spins

yeah I see what you mean! definitely don't want to go swinging a hammer to violently in that engine bay haha. my opinion is that the starter is suspect. you're getting an audible clunk when you turn on the ignition and the engine turns over freely by hand, which rules out any internal engine issue. probably from sitting for extended periods. you can always swap the guts from a good starter into your chromed starter housing and be good to go

I'm interested in the steering wheel if it is decent condition and still available.

does not sound like any AAA vr6 harness that I am familiar with. as stated above, for the FCM, there should be a big 4 pin plug and a small 10 pin plug. a picture would be helpful!

not trying to be an ass but have you tried tapping it with a hammer? occasionally you get lucky and it will unstick whatever is stuck haha. sounds to me like the starter has gone tits up. It's not too much effort to remove it on these cars thankfully. don't know if the UK has anything similar but here in the USA there are automotive parts stores that will bench test a starter for free to eliminate it as a possibility.

would you be willing to ship to the USA?

if you want or need it to be a closed loop system then you'll need to have a port welded to the intake pipe. the purpose of the catch can is to eliminate the PCV system so it would counterintuitive to install the catch can but have the vapors recirculated to the intake. personally I would just leave the intake pipe as-is and install a catch can that does not recirculate the vapors