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VR6king

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  1. Look for OBD1 VR6 out of a Corrado or 1993-1994 Passat. They come with Forged Cranck from factory, and dual chain/Sprockets. They will hold more than OBD2 motors but you can switch to OBD2 wirring and all. They are 2.8L. Thats what i have always went for when Turbo them.
  2. The VR6 plug actually has 5 Female receivers, the MAF has 6 pins. One of those pins i believe its the 5th one is a burn off, you can ignore it. Also, you wouldnt have to change the ECU if you cut and splice, 1----1 2---2 3---4 4---3 5---Burn off wire(leave disconnected) But, if you dont want to cut and splice to OBD2 plug you can just swtich to OBD2 like you said brother. [emoji16]
  3. Yes they sure are, i guess i got real lucky when i bought them at partsgeek.com, but do they? I am going tk check that out right now [emoji16]
  4. Its definetly a vaccum leak somewhere. I suggest grabbing a spray of break cleaner and spray away in the motor to see if you can find it. You should hear difference in idle when you hit where the leak is coming from.
  5. You can change OBD1 Maf to OBD2. It requires some cutting and splicing but saves you Money and works! But you would have to switch to a 2.0L ABA MAF. You can remove it from its housing and put it in a VR6 OBD2 MAF housing. Its bigger i diameter.
  6. And how bad is the Tapping? Is it constant? Comes and goes? Tapping at idle? Gone when Revs?
  7. If you used the old Rods on your new motor the problem could be in fact either a spun Rod or Main bearing. The only way to know for sure if pulling the Motor and Crank to check for damage for Main bearings. You can check Rod bearing know from under the car. Remove pan and physically grab and try to move Rods. Most of time you will find it. If you in fact have a spun rod or main bearing i suggest highly either buying a new lower block (save money) or buy new crank and Rods, and get your block sent to machine shop to check for damage and balancing. Did you replace bearings? Thrust bearings? Main
  8. I would get them at ECSTuning, i just checked you are right they are out of stock.
  9. Last time i checked they had both Right and Left front Calipers with the carriers as well. Both part numbers are different for left and front. The rotors i am using are slotted 280mm. The pads you can get them for the make and model of that audi for example. Most audi of 90-92 used these. But they also have a complete kit on (ECSTuning.com) for $215.07.
  10. Well i would honestly suggest taking a look at the Rods. You want to eliminate that first, because if you go spending money on lifter only to find out its still there you will be pissed! Take a look at them, once you are clear it isnt the Rods then move on to the lifters brother! I hope it isnt Rod knocks!
  11. Sounds like a Vaccum leak! When you turn thr wheel does it also drop idle?
  12. It could be three things, and only three things that can cause knocking in a VR6. First check if tapping is coming from behind the motor, if it is i suggest taking a look at the oil pump shaft that runs from the bottle up. Second, it could be an annoying sticky lifter! Remove the valve cover and turn the motor as you check for possibel clearance in the cam lobs. And third, could be a rod know. Suggestion is to remove the oil pan, and check each and every rod. Spin the motor, grab the rods and try and move them, shake them. If you notice play, even the slightlest, its a Rod knock! Hope its not
  13. I would need more details, what do you refer to when you say lumpy on idle?
  14. Sorry brother! The part number (19-B1906) are the right ones, and the part number (19-B1907) arr for the left ones brother! They are available in stock. They are each $50.23 a piece!
  15. here you go brother. Type in (19-B1906) and they will come up.
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