dave_424

Got a v6 4motion golf for sale gt3582r at 15-18psi, all the bells and whistles. £5k, strip the performance parts off it or swap the engine if you want to keep the bora. Cheaper/faster than new parts, less than a year on the parts 

Hi guys, my turbo V6 4motion is for sale, my build thread can be found here 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBOCHARGED-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-V6-4MOTION-BLACK-TURBO-R32-/222193093201?
 
Description from the listing:
This vehicle has been built without compromise, using high quality parts and components to withstand its power increase while keeping factory smooth running and reliability.  During the conversion, the timing chains were checked for wear using VCDS which showed low readings, well within spec. The chain and guides were visually checked and had very little signs of wear.  The cylinder bores were also checked and were in very good condition with hone marks still visible. I have a comprehensive photo library of the conversion. 
 
The vehicle has had a full service, replacing all filters, engine oil, coolant, gearbox oil and Haldex oil.  It also has full service history and I also have every receipt for each part purchased for the turbocharger conversion and other modifications/maintenance whilst in my possession.
 
Turbo boost pressure is set at approximately 16psi, with a turbo of this size it is making 400+bhp and is incredibly fast. With the four wheel drive Haldex system easily putting all that power to the ground.
 
The 18” alloy wheels are Genuine golf R32 wheels, 7.5J wide and made by RONAL. They have also been powder coated black. The battery has also been placed in the boot, to allow for intake and intercooler pipework. 
 
Engine upgrades include:
Stainless steel head spacer to reduce compression
Race grade connecting rod bearings
ARP connecting rod bolts
ARP head studs
T3 turbocharger manifold 
United Motorsports 630cc Forced induction tune
Garrett GT3582R ball bearing turbo
Tial 38mm wastegate
Siemens Deka 630cc injectors
Inline Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Turbosmart boost controller
4” MAF housing
Large K&N air filter
2.5” stainless intercooler piping
450mmx227mmx65mm bar and plate intercooler
NGK BKR7E spark plugs
6 speed DRP gearbox
 
Other modifications include:
Sachs 4 puck sintered paddle clutch and heavy duty pressure plate
Innovate boost gauge/shift light
Innovate wideband Air/Fuel ratio gauge
Innovate Oil pressure/Oil temperature gauge
All three gauges have built in datalogging capabilities for tuning
Aux and USB adapter
Full 3” stainless turbo back exhaust 
20mm hubcentric rear wheel spacers
New rear brake pads
Stainless braided teflon -10 turbo drain
Black teflon -3 turbo feed
Black carbon wrapped interior trim
Recently new front tyres
Washer bottle relocated to the rear
 
The paintwork is in good condition for its age with some stone chips etc. Typical MK4 golf corrosion around the rear boot handle. The central locking on the rear passenger door needs attention
 
MOT expires May 2017
 
In my opinion, comparing this car and its performance to the Golf R32 it’s excellent value for money
 
For any more information please call me (Dave) on 07972188861
 
Advertised elsewhere and may remove at any time
 
Cash on collection
 
Sold as seen

You will not be able to turbocharge a VR6 to a high standard with a £1500 budget. It's more likely to be 3K+

It's generally accepted that 15psi is safe with a GT35 turbo, can possibly push it to 20. That's with head spacer, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs and a very good tune. 

I got mine from http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk, I think it was £1050 for the turbo with next day delivery 

Check out my build thread on here. Mine is the 24v engine with a GT3582r .82 and I'm at full boost by 3k rpm and seems to not run out of puff at redline.
This was low'ish boost around 12-13 psi 
 

My car is 100% a street car, and I have only really had turbo diesels so I wanted a suitable amount of low end power and for the boost to come in at a reasonable RPM so you don't have to spend all the time in the high RPM's. 
Like RBPE said I have the 02m 4wd trans with a 4 paddle clutch so I don't have any worries about breaking it any time soon. 
My build was for a reliable 400-500bhp, for use as a daily driver. I've turned the boost up to approx 18psi but totally forgot about my plastic intake manifold, might have to turn it down before it cracks/blows
I have a feeling that's the lowest the display will read since it's pegged at 4.3 pretty much the whole time. 

Check out my build thread on here. Mine is the 24v engine with a GT3582r .82 and I'm at full boost by 3k rpm and seems to not run out of puff at redline.
This was low'ish boost around 12-13 psi 
 

Check out my build thread on here. Mine is the 24v engine with a GT3582r .82 and I'm at full boost by 3k rpm and seems to not run out of puff at redline.
This was low'ish boost around 12-13 psi 
 

Check out my build thread on here. Mine is the 24v engine with a GT3582r .82 and I'm at full boost by 3k rpm and seems to not run out of puff at redline.
This was low'ish boost around 12-13 psi 
 

ECU won't affect the cruising RPM's. To change that you would need to look at your gearbox and differential crown/pinion gears 

Running  15psi at the moment with a GT35R turbo, so around 400bhp+ would be my guess. 
 
EDIT: Accidentally turned my best controller the wrong way and boosted to 22psi, injectors handled that fine but good god it was fast

Running  15psi at the moment with a GT35R turbo, so around 400bhp+ would be my guess. 
 
EDIT: Accidentally turned my best controller the wrong way and boosted to 22psi, injectors handled that fine but good god it was fast

I've got 630cc's in my 24v vr6 turbo, they work great 

I've got 630cc's in my 24v vr6 turbo, they work great 

Read my build thread here http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/46794-v6-4motion-turbo-build-thread/
 
Granted it's a 24v engine but most of the ideas and fabrication is the same between all vr6 engines. I'm using a Garrett GT3582R ball bearing turbo with a .82 AR exhaust housing. In a high gear I can get full boost right around 3k rpm and doesn't run out of puff at high rpm.

It's...........ALIVE!! 



Filled it up with coolant at approx a 40-50% mix and installed my NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped at .026". I attached the stock intake pipe with the original MAF housing removed and taped on my 4" MAF housing, cranked over to build up some oil pressure and it fired into life.

Idle was rough and after a minute or two of running, it threw a code of random/intermittent misfire and misfire on cylinder 4, I was hoping it wasn't the injector wiring since that means I would have had to take the intake manifold off again. I swapped coil pack 4 and 2, problem was still there so I gave it a little bit of throttle and that cleared it straight away and purred like a kitten.

Some smoke/steam from the turbo/manifold/downpipe from handling and instillation, and also I spilled a little bit of coolant back there, but that soon burnt off. Some vapour from the exhaust and water dripping from the rear silencer but that's to be expected since it's been sat so long.

I'm a very happy chap, guess I got the timing right then 

Before I run it any more, I want to install my intercooler piping and pipe everything up like it should be, I also want to loosen the oil feed fitting at the turbo or the oil drain and verify that the turbo is getting oil.

It's...........ALIVE!! 



Filled it up with coolant at approx a 40-50% mix and installed my NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped at .026". I attached the stock intake pipe with the original MAF housing removed and taped on my 4" MAF housing, cranked over to build up some oil pressure and it fired into life.

Idle was rough and after a minute or two of running, it threw a code of random/intermittent misfire and misfire on cylinder 4, I was hoping it wasn't the injector wiring since that means I would have had to take the intake manifold off again. I swapped coil pack 4 and 2, problem was still there so I gave it a little bit of throttle and that cleared it straight away and purred like a kitten.

Some smoke/steam from the turbo/manifold/downpipe from handling and instillation, and also I spilled a little bit of coolant back there, but that soon burnt off. Some vapour from the exhaust and water dripping from the rear silencer but that's to be expected since it's been sat so long.

I'm a very happy chap, guess I got the timing right then 

Before I run it any more, I want to install my intercooler piping and pipe everything up like it should be, I also want to loosen the oil feed fitting at the turbo or the oil drain and verify that the turbo is getting oil.

Managed to get a little bit more done today, first thing was to make up my wastage dump/screamer pipe, I also added a little stainless tab at the bottom that bolts to one of the sump bolts. This should take some stress out of the system but since the tab is thin it should't create a bind if something wants to move around or expand with heat. It vents straight down by the drivers side wheel, should be pretty loud

 
With that finished, I then could put on the intake manifold since that would have majorly restricted my access to the wastage.
]
 
Then I attached all of the electrical connectors and vacuum lines. I did realise one problem though, since I modified the water hard lines to clear the wastegate, the water feed pipe from the coolant reservoir has been raised. This means that coolant from the reservoir doesn't fill the system until the level in the reservoir is about an inch above the max line. I'll just make new max and min marks and see how it goes. 
 
I then offered up my 4" intake pipe 45 degree aluminium bend, it required a little bit of trimming of the shift cable bracket and since the pipe still rests on the bracket, I slit open some vacuum hose and glued it on the bracket, hopefully giving the intake pipe an easier time and stop any rattles. 4" MAF sensor will go on after the pipe (the MAF sensor wires are in the perfect spot) and then a large K&N air filter. 
 

 

Managed to get a little bit more done today, first thing was to make up my wastage dump/screamer pipe, I also added a little stainless tab at the bottom that bolts to one of the sump bolts. This should take some stress out of the system but since the tab is thin it should't create a bind if something wants to move around or expand with heat. It vents straight down by the drivers side wheel, should be pretty loud

 
With that finished, I then could put on the intake manifold since that would have majorly restricted my access to the wastage.
]
 
Then I attached all of the electrical connectors and vacuum lines. I did realise one problem though, since I modified the water hard lines to clear the wastegate, the water feed pipe from the coolant reservoir has been raised. This means that coolant from the reservoir doesn't fill the system until the level in the reservoir is about an inch above the max line. I'll just make new max and min marks and see how it goes. 
 
I then offered up my 4" intake pipe 45 degree aluminium bend, it required a little bit of trimming of the shift cable bracket and since the pipe still rests on the bracket, I slit open some vacuum hose and glued it on the bracket, hopefully giving the intake pipe an easier time and stop any rattles. 4" MAF sensor will go on after the pipe (the MAF sensor wires are in the perfect spot) and then a large K&N air filter. 
 

 

Stock internals I believe are good for 500bhp but you want to be much past that. Just some info.
2.8 block is stronger than the 3.2, best to keep the bore sizes as small as you can. Stoking might work well but the engine is already under square so the stroke is longer than the bore diameter so with high rpm you could have problems with excessive piston speed and rod angle.
I believe that when people build a 3.0 engine, by boring the 2.8 block and using the standard crank. Also cranks from a mk5 golf are cast and not forged if I remember correctly.
I've got a build thread for approx 500bhp just a couple of topics down in this section, stock internals just lowered compression but I've written it quite detailed so there might be some information in there for you.
Good luck with the build, keep us updated with what you decide to do

Did some work on it today, first was to modify the heat shield so that it would clear the turbo compressor housing outlet and the wastegate. A bit of guess work and some careful grinding sorted that. Then I had to move one of the coolant hard pipes that is attached to the heat shield so that it would clear everything. Here is how it came out


 
 
I then made up the turbo oil feed and coolant lines. Turbo oil feed uses a M10x1mm banjo at the oil filter housing, I used -4 teflon line with a black PVC coating for an OEM stealth look and at the turbo end I used a 7/16"x24 stainless banjo with a built in 2mm restrictor. If the 2mm restrictor makes the turbo smoke, I can just weld the hole up and drill it smaller.
 
The coolant line is routed so that the coolant coming out of the throttle body, goes into the turbo, then out of the turbo and then to the pipe where the throttle body outlet would have originally gone.
 
Got to get some P-clips to secure the turbo feed but the turbo is now bolted on for good using Garrett's supplied copper locking nuts. 
 
Next will be the wastage dump tube, then the inlet manifold can go back on, some boost pipes and it will be ready for a first start

More progress
 
For torquing the cam chain sprockets, they are torque to 44 ft/lbs (if I remember right) and then 90 degrees, so I made this little paper disk that has 90 degree lines and sits over the bolt head, mark where one of the lines meets the cam sprocket, then tighten the bolt until the next line lines up with your mark.

 
 
I got my turbo drain fitting welded into my sump. I used a -10 AN aluminium weld on fitting, some black hose fittings and some stainless braided teflon line, all purchased through Torques on eBay who have an amazing selection of fittings etc. and great service. 

 
 
I then installed my Siemens 630cc injectors and their pigtail harness adapters, I think I can tuck everything out of the way so that it doesn't interfere with the intake manifold. 

 
 
Then finally I welded in my wideband o2 sensor bungs, making sure that they are directed downwards as to not allow moisture to collect in the sensor causing it to fail. Once my wastage arrives, I'll see how much room I have to fit my sensor for my wideband gauge as close to the turbo as I can. 

Got some more done today!
 
Head and block surfaces were cleaned of all remaining gasket material and then wiped over with degreaser. 

 
 
When I stripped down my engine, I noticed that to get the cam locking tool to slot into the cams, the engine had to be rotated approx 5mm past TDC. I wanted to know if the TDC mark on the front pulley was correct, so I used a dial test indicator zeroed at maximum piston height on cylinder 1. I then rotated the engine backwards until the piston dropped 0.01" and marked where the notch in the front pulley was. Then rotated the engine forwards past TDC until the piston dropped again 0.01" and made another mark. The OEM mark was bang in the middle of the two marks I made meaning the OEM marks were indeed correct

 
 
ARP head studs from 034 motorsports were then installed. I then split my Elring head gasket, removed the centre layer and sprayed all sides of the top, spacer and bottom layers. Once tacky they were laid on top of the block. (WARNING - head gasket layers are razor sharp and whilst I was manoeuvring the bottom layer down the head studs, I cut my finger very deep) I then slid the head down the studs into place, making sure it was pushed all the way down on the locating dowels. Using the ARP lube on both sides of the washers and the nut threads, the head was torqued down to 80 ft/lbs in three equal stages using the correct tightening sequence. On the last torque setting I went through the tightening sequence three times to make sure every stud was equally tight. 




 
 
I then installed my cams (sorry no pictures), making sure that the lobes for both cams for cylinder 1 were facing each other, and that the aligning slot was above camshaft centreline, I tightened down each camshaft cap evenly to 15 ft/lbs. I then installed the cam solenoid plate, using loctite on the bolts, torqued to 8NM, installed the tight side chain guide, loctite on the bolts torqued to 20NM. The sprockets were then installed and the engine timed using the excellent HPA videos here https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4LNikstxsFiWEhrd1BSUHExMXc&usp=sharing

Some parts from www.turbodynamics.co.uk arrived today. A genuine Garrett dual ball bearing GT3582R with a .82 exhaust housing and a Tial 38mm wastage with a 1 bar spring (all they had). Decided to go with the Genuine turbo since I am doing everything correctly, why skimp out on probably the most important part. I know lots of people do get them to work fine, I decided against it on a daily driven road car. 
 
I'll get the drain, feed and water lines done in the next few days. After that it's just routing some 4" intake piping between my MAF housing and turbo, intercooler pipes and weld up a screamer pipe . Shouldn't be long now!