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96VR6NZ

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About 96VR6NZ

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    Napier, New Zealand

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  1. Thanks, I have an electronics background and trade so could so I can see the DIY potential. But I am glad I left it to the professional crew at Tunetechnics, they have a passion for this stuff and know what an engine needs, it transformed a motor that has been ticking over for 20 years blissfully unaware of its true ability. The engine growls with an attitude, it knows that we have been restricting it unnecessarily, its got something to prove now and a pleasure to drive.
  2. Tunetechnic in Auckland did an awesome job. I sent them a spare ECU and they tuned it to our set up, the exhaust and air intake etc. They estimate an extra 15kw and 25Nm. It goes well, the torque is there all the time and peak power gives a real kick at the top end. The auto box is in its element, its smoother and more predictable. It has transformed the car. I also reckon it's the best looking VR6 in NZ!
  3. Thanks. There's obviously more to it than I thought......
  4. Yes that's what I was expecting. I want to do the ECU next. Have already done the induction and exhaust with good gains in performance. Who does the ECU mods these days? Can you recommend anyone? UK or overseas.
  5. I know that you can enter sport mode by pushing the pedal past the full throttle point. It causes a kick down and gear change at the redline. However it seems to go back to normal after a while. I wonder if there is a way to keep it in sport mode, switch it on and off.
  6. I have a 96 VR6 OBD2 with automatic transmission. It goes well, I enjoy the auto trans but I wonder if there is anyway to improve its performance? Can the ECU be modified?
  7. I have a 96 VR6 OBD2. I want to upgrade the ECU for improved performance. What are my options? I have a spare ECU to play with. Would appreciate any advice from those who have done this... cheers
  8. Maybe the ECU is not providing the correct pulses to the coil pack. Maybe try resetting the ECU. Disconnect the battery at both terminals and then connect the leads together for a couple of minutes. Failing that, maybe you need to get the ECU checked out.
  9. Cool. Thanks for the advice, Waiting for the new MAF to arrive today. Will see how it goes.
  10. How did it go? Are you sorted? I had the same kind of crank but no start problem which turned out to be multiple faults. I needed a new immobilser unit, a new coil pack and the ignition switch failed whilst troubleshooting... see my recent post... maybe it will give you some ideas, I got a lot of support from the forum.
  11. We haven't had our 96 VR6 for long. Not long after purchase I installed a K&N pod air filter directly onto the MAF sensor 80mm diameter housing. No real gains in performance were noted however the induction sound was good. It was especially loud above 4000rpm. After maybe 200km of driving the engine started to misfire and chug, eventually stalling. My OBD scanner indicated that the MAF sensor was faulty. Unplugging the MAF sensor replicates the fault, still chugging etc I have ordered a new MAF sensor but I am concerned that the increased airflow through the pod filter may have wreck
  12. We got it sorted finally. Replacing the immobilser control unit restored the communications at the OBD port, apparently the diagnostic connection goes through the immobilser. The ECU was re-coded but still cranking with no start. The coil pack was changed and she started up. No trouble codes in the ECU. So to summarise, the problems were caused by three components becoming faulty at the same time. The ignition switch, the immobiliser control unit and the coil pack. 2 days labour plus parts... ouch. She was going great for a day until the MAF sensor failed, but that's a different story....
  13. It's sorted and back on the road. The immobiliser unit was replaced and full communication with the ECU was restored. Somehow the immobiliser was blocking the comms with the OBD port. The tech says that the diagnostic signal passes through the immobiliser. Still no start and no spark at this point, so he changed the coil pack it she started up with no fault codes. The ignition switch also caused issues with no cranking at all at one point. So to summarise, multiple faults: The immobiliser unit was faulty, blocking the ECU comms with the OBD port and possibly causing other issues. The coil p
  14. I passed that info onto the VW tech yesterday. He traced the wiring back from the OBD port and it is all okay. Still can't talk to the ECU and cranks but no start. He thinks that not being able to talk to the ECU via that OBD port also means that the ECU and Immobiliser can't talk to each other. He reckons the immobiliser is the next thing to try, we have ordered a replacement unit. Should arrive today.
  15. Where is the plug? it's a good place to test from
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