Sump_slammer

That last comment makes me laugh, engine rebuild was quick and not as painful as I originally thought, but that turbo build is still not finished lol. Altho I may hear it run for the first time since I pulled the engine out all those years ago tomorrow last piece of the puzzle is my new fuel pump which arrived today... Lets hope she doesn't smoke like she did 3 years ago!

Looks like a walbro 400 is on the cards when i get some spare time ill pop it on and let you chaps know what the fitting was like, I remember stealth racing supplying a "kit" which consisted of a bit metal ring which the pump sat in and people only being able to run a minimum of 1/4 tank. Is this going to be the same?

hi chaps back again. Made some progress with the turbo work. Engines built, turbos on short runners on engines back in and gearbox is rebuilt with a LSD installed. Now its time to do the fueling. Im aiming for 450ish bhp and was wondering what my options are. I want to keep my standard fuel tank in the mk3, should i opt for a walbro 255 intank pump? Or a bosch 044 external pump with a standard low presure pump in tank feeding the 044? Are there any other options? To be honest with you im after the most simple installs as this project has hit one snag after another. Any help or suggestions welcome aslong as you are talking first hand experiance and not here say what you have read, or what you mates mate has told you ive been lead up the garden path a few times and want to get stuff right first time.

I have 2 pumps but don't know what they are! Problem when you get someone else's project! I have a custom fuel cell and allegedly a Motorsport pump in it and another one pulling fuel to an external swirl pot.
all I can say is that when the external one kicks in that's all I can hear, start up is great as you can hear the priming before as key turn bit don't expect to hear any music until your rolling!
I would suggest measuring what the turbo requirements an comparing it to your current fuel pressure reg standard odb2 is 3 bar and I believe that some odb1 run a 4 bar one
let us know how you get on
steve

Walbro 255 in tank is more than adequate for your application. If your goals change the walbro 400 is good for 1000bhp.
 
At no point would I ever recommend fitting an Bosch 044.
 
They are noisy, outdated and more effort than their worth. By the time you have one installed your £300 in on a genuine pump, swirlpot and pipes.
 
Walbro 255 = £75 
 
Walbro 400 = £120
 
Job done.

Measured them Just now, by the way got a spare 6 branch if any one wants for £50 comes with bungs lol

If your getting the vehicle mapped standard fpr is fine. If your trying to get around not mapping it then a rising rate is a crude way of getting fueling but you will need a air fuel ratio sensor to set it up properly to make sure its not going to run lean or to rich. As for the injectors id say they are too small altho I'm sure someone would argue they're ok. but considering you can get a set of 6x Bosch greens new for £175 on ebay now it won't break the budget to look into a new set. Altho again people have there own ideas of whats good and whats not. Depends on your power goals. Also look into changing your pump if its not already done as your injectors can only inject whats at the rail.

i've done abit of an update

Even tho this thread is old thought id update you all. About a month ago I forgave the vr6 and calmed down after it being parked for 6 months or so and pulled the engine out and striped it down all the bores were glazed over and fat lip at the top and generally a bit tired. Managed to get a set of 2.9 pistons and sent the block off for a re bore. Also turboing it whilst its apart too.

Even tho this thread is old thought id update you all. About a month ago I forgave the vr6 and calmed down after it being parked for 6 months or so and pulled the engine out and striped it down all the bores were glazed over and fat lip at the top and generally a bit tired. Managed to get a set of 2.9 pistons and sent the block off for a re bore. Also turboing it whilst its apart too.

While researching Z-engineering supercharger i found very little information on these chargers,
and alot of people saying you can't get parts for them any more.
Z-engineering have been taken over by RUF and are not the most hopefully company,
their Swedish, and speak limited English.
But I found once taking the chargers apart some parts did have some kind of marking or model number on them.
They were just sneaky when putting them together, and would put the bearing marking facing inwards so you can't see them until removed. Then measuring parts, researching more, looking in to different types of bearings. and how different bearings work.
Working out different threads of nuts and bolts. Measuring belts with old length of string method.
I also had two of theses chargers taken apart at same time. so I could cross reference the parts. I have both ZR1 (Ribbed pulleys) and ZR2 (Toothed pulleys).
So I made a list of the parts I have found out while rebuilding it.
plus some useful videos.
 
 
Contact Angle bearing video - Main Shaft Bearings
http://youtu.be/etxk2gA9HUM
 
ZR1 Internal Main Shaft bearings: Quantity:3 (Same bearings that original came from Z-engineering)
"7003 CD / P4A" or "7003 CDGA / P4A"
- OD:35mm ID:17mm Width:10mm - Must always replace all three!!
 
ZR2 Internal Main Shaft bearings: Quantity:3
"7003 CXGA / P4A"
- OD:35mm ID:17mm Width:10mm - Must always replace all three!!
 
 
Deep Grove bearings video - Large pulley Bearings:
http://youtu.be/fNDRl9wXxYk
 
ZR2 Larger Pulley Bearing: Quantity:2 (Same bearings that original came from Z-engineering)
"6203-2Z / C3GJN"
- High temperature bearing - OD:40mm ID:17mm Width:12mm
(upgrade for ZR1! more robust metal covers, over the ZR1 rubber/plastic covers)


 
 
 
ZR2 Aftermarket Toothed Belt:Quantity:1
"500 5M 25"
- Length:500mm, 5mm teeth, Width:25mm. - TOO WIDE for small pulley - possibly cut down to 21mm.
or
"500 5M 12" or "500 5M 15"
- Length:500mm, 5mm teeth Width:12mm / 15mm - Thinner belt but will work okay. (This will get belt walk where belt moves side to side and stretches the belt, meaning it need to be replaced quicker)
Original Z-engineering belt - Length: 495mm, Width: 21mm
Extra length on the aftermarket belt can be taken up on the tension of the pulleys.
 
ZR1 Aftermarket Ribbed Belt:Quantity:1
"Poly-V 190J/483PJ" or "Goodyear 06905"
- Length:483mm, Ribs:12. - or use two 6Rib belts
Original Z-engineering belt - Length: 483mm, Ribs:12

 
 
ZR1 & ZR2 - Engine / PAS / Water pump / Z-engineering tensioner / Supercharger pulley / Belt:Quantity:1
Off the Self Belt that fit are "6DPK1697" or "7DPK1697" Double sided! Make sure to get the double sided version, as they also make a single sided version. The 6 ribbed belt will work but May belt walk, 7 ribbed belt is much better. (6 rib belt is from the BMW E90 series.)
Original Z-engineering Belt - Length:67" or 1701.8mm, Width:25mm 7 ribs, Double sided belt.
Contact Brammer or other belt manufacturers for custom made belts - give them "7DPK1697" and tell them you need it double sided, it's already the correct length belt, but it is only single sided. And a double sided belt is required.
or you could try the original VW part number and ask them to make it longer.
 
Original VW Engine belt part number:
"021 145 933 H" Length:1360mm, Width:25mm 7 rib -
Original VW double sided Air Con belt. Original belt TOO SHORT!!
Pk number for this belt is 7DPK1360
 
How to figure out V-belt codes and numbers
The 1st number is the amount of ribs on the belt.
So 7 = 7ribs. 6 = 6ribs. And so on.
PK is a single sided V-belt or
DPK is the Double sided V-belt.
And the last 4 number are the length of the belt.
So 1697 = 1697mm length.
To recap 6DPK1697 = 6ribs, double sided, 1697mm length.
 
Oil for inside charger
Fully synthetic 0-40
change every 2000-2500 miles
 
Rear oil housing (bath) seal: Quantity:1 of each
ID:80mm O-ring Width:2mm - Bottom O-ring
ID:78mm O-ring Width:2mm - Top O-ring
 
Front and rear Oil Seal for Main Shaft need to be custom made, there are a few companies who could possible make them. 
 
Grease for large pulley bearings - Not needed if buying new bearings, only if refurbishing old ones.
"SKF LGHP2" - High Performance High Temperature Bearing Grease.
 
 
 
All Nuts and bolts are the same for ZR1 and ZR2.
Tensioner Nut and Bolts: Quantity: 2
M10 - 60mm : Allen Key High Tensile Grade 12.9 bolt.
M10 Nyloc Nut. Quantity: 2

 
 
Larger Pulley Front Shaft Bolt: Quantity: 1
M8 - 17mm : COUNTER SUNK allen key High Tensile Grade 12.9 Bolt.
Use original countersunk washer, it's the same size as the internal bearing ring, and gives nice even pressure.

(new allen key head left, original countersunk washer middle, original phillips head right.)
 
 
Larger Pulley Rear Shaft Bolt: Quantity:1
M10 - 20mm: Allen key head, or normal Hex head High Tensile Grade 12.9 Bolt.
 
Super Charger Main Snail Housing Bolts: Quantity:12
M6 - 16mm : Allen Key Head.
Normal tensile should be fine, can go high tensile if wanted
 
Alternator bracket, with z-engineering tensioner.
M8 100mm Quantity:2 Allen key head. 12.9 high tensile.
The original bolts will be to short once the new tensioner bracket is fitted. Originals are 80mm.
 
Oil bath grub screws
M8 - 8mm grub screw Quantity:2 Allen key head.
 
Pipe work
Air filter (or MAF) to impellar intake
3" (76mm) to 3.5" (90mm) - 90 degree silicone elbow. Alloy elbow are usally a wider radius courner and touch the inner wing and don't fit.
 
Air filter
Any 3" (76mm) will work, so pick your preferred preference. (Usally the oringal carbon / emmiosns canister needs to be removed or relocated)
The one or two with ??? are parts I'm not 100% sure on. but I will update as and when I find out..
 
 
Difference between ZR1 and ZR2 Pulleys:



 
ZR1 Small Ribbed Pulley:
44mm??? x 12ribs = 6psi
34mm??? x 12ribs = 8psi
 
ZR2 Small Toothed Pulley:
27 teeth = 6psi approx.
24 teeth = 8psi approx.
(any other number of teeth on the small pulley are custom made)
 
ZR1 large pulley
12 ribs - supercharger pulley,
6 ribs - engine pulley.
 
ZR2 Large pulley
73 teeth - supercharger toothed pulley,
6 ribs - engine pulley.
 
 
Rear Oil Housing Breather Hole:
There are 2 small grub screws that sit horizontal in the oil bath.
These are to change the oil within the supercharger.
Although not in the easiest position to access once on the vehicle, it can be done with a length of small tubing, and a large syringe.
Reason NOT to rotate the oil housing to make the grub screw easier to access is.... the breather hole would sit half way down,
leaking oil as it's not pointing vertically up. Also this breather hole needs to be kept clear, as it only very small.
as I have seen one or two pictures on the internet while doing research, where people have rotated the oil bath.


 
 
Impeller or Pulley Removal:
To remove the impeller or small pulley from the main shaft, heat either the impeller or small pulley depending on which you are removing with a blow torch. A heat gun will not get it hot enough. Try to heat the whole pulley or impeller evenly constantly moving the blow torch. This will make the metal expand and slightly loosen it's self from the main shaft. Try not to heat the main shaft. As you want the pulley or impeller to expand not the main shaft. They can then be prise off genteelly making sure not to bend or misshape. Also be careful because they will be boiling hot. I wear thick welding gloves.
You will need to do this to gain access to the main shaft bearings.
If removing the impeller make sure not to lose any of the very thin spacing washers. And make sure to re-fit them when re-assembling.
Re-heat on re-assembling, don't uses a press or anything like that. Very light taps with a hammer and some wood, once heated will be okay. You shouldn't need to smash it on. If it still to tight and won't go on with a soft tap, heat it more. Always use wood in between, so not to mark or dent the parts.
Make sure they a fitted straight and true. I use a micro meter and measure the gap all the way around in between the impeller and housing once fitted, making minor adjustments if needed, also re-heat, if it started to cool.
Once finally cool, the impeller or pulley will have a very tight fit to the main shaft and will not come lose.
 
 
Other Info:
SKF are a huge world wide bearing manufacture, you can go direct to them, or you can find quite a few vendors on Google. You can even find SKF bearings for sale on eBay.
Brammer are a large UK company who make and supply bearings and belts. They have quite a few branches throughout the UK. Or you can contact them via there website.
There are also many other belt manufacturers who can make and supply custom made belts.
 
 
Original Z-engineering VR6 Fitting Guide:
http://philhalbasch.com/charger/MK3_VR6_FITTING.pdf

Thanks for the ones who replied,carried out all the testing you advised,no joy unfortunately,sent ecu away to be tested ,turns out to be faulty thanks again

Tests were done on maf sensors between a qulity unit and a budget item and they showed that the internals of a budget maf sensor were very poor electricronics. This resulted in lost horsepower and increased fuel consumption. You dont need to go to vw to get one just make sure its an equivalent make like bosch.

Before I start pulling my lump apart again im just wanting to get a few opinions and sound my thoughts over the last few days.
This 150,000 mile 12 valve vr6 engine has seen better days, its puffing blue smoke from the exhuast. You can make it burn oil by rolling along at say 4000rpm off the throttle and let the revs slowly come down for about 8 seconds then when you gave it a foot full, there was a large cough of blue smoke.
Fitted the new guides and valves and genuine stem seals genuine headgasket. Ran my new cams in and bedded my clutch in for 500miles then started to give it abit of a hoof again. Then the blue smoke started to come back again. In exactly the same way! Fantastic.
Is this signs that the machine shop has reamed the guides too much causing excessive movment again? Its possiblility. I'll need to get a bentley shop manual and mesure the valve play to check the tolerances.
Or is it that the rings on the high mileage engine have come to the end of there life?
The way i saw it was that as the throttle was shut and the vacume in the engine was present at 4000rpm it was sucking the oil through the worn guides. Filling up cylinders and then when you open the throttle up it was causing the oil to burn.
My next step is to remove the oil breather filter and cup the end of the hose to see how much presure is there as the should be very little. High presure is a sign of worn piston rings as the compression from the engine is passing the worn rings and pressurizing the sump pan which in turn is raising the presure and vapour coming out of the filter.
Compresion tests along with checking the plugs would give a indication to which cylinders are at fault.
Either way all the work has got to be re done.
Your thoughts, any pointers or past experiances are welcome. This seems to be a very commen fault with these 12 valves so lets see if we can get a guide together for people experiencing the same faults!

Whats your goal for bhp? Pete is probably you best bet as I think his carrado is the highest na vr on the forum. But big money to do it. But here is what ive picked up from here and know from older projects.
First off the 6 branch on a vr6 has very limited gains as the ports are un equal aparently there is only one company thats actully managed a exhaust manifold with gains. Never looked into which company because its so pricey.
But heat is an enemy so heat wrap it up to lower you engine bay temps!
Mk4 metal head gasket is a cheep way to higher the compresion of the engine more compresion helps with the bangs.
After market lightened flywheels make a big difference to how a vr feels anything lighter than 9 pounds becomes a pain to live with. But remember even tho it feels more revy and responsive you loose touque.
Cams, well if you staying na then go crazy but again becomes a pain in the ass in traffic 182's are lumpy idle and high end revs to see the benefits. As you want to go na aswell bang in a set of uprated valve springs to prevent valve bounce when screaming in the high revs
Shrick manifolds get that low end punch in touque which the vr lacks. Exspensive but worth while im still in the market for one myself but theyre around 700 to 1000 depending on the finish and if you have the control box.
Re maps are your best friend. Vince can sort you out somthing to get all you mods working together nicely! But do it once the harware is installed as it can add up!
Blue printing the bottom end all rods and pistons made to the same weight with a balanced crank and arp studded rods help with high revving
Then head work. But its abit of a art to get a vr 12valve head to flow better leave this to the pros as you can take off too much and loose power.
Good luck mate and sorry for my poor spelling any questions just ask.

Nice bit of kit. Being v1 its got straight cut gears which will make it a little more noisy, not a bad thing as after all id want people to know ive spent money on my car. How much did that set you back?

Im in the process of going supercharged. Ns tuning told me not to bother with a spacer plate upto 8 psi and they never fitted one on any of there supercharger conversions and theyve been doing it for over ten years. As for head gasket and bolts dont bother with arp. If you up the
Boost later to 10psi or over - which you cant with a vortech v2 as aparently it over works the charger and will throw its toys out the pram then put a set of arp stud is. As for gasket you can get a victor reinz of ebay or gsf.

Whats your goal for bhp? Pete is probably you best bet as I think his carrado is the highest na vr on the forum. But big money to do it. But here is what ive picked up from here and know from older projects.
First off the 6 branch on a vr6 has very limited gains as the ports are un equal aparently there is only one company thats actully managed a exhaust manifold with gains. Never looked into which company because its so pricey.
But heat is an enemy so heat wrap it up to lower you engine bay temps!
Mk4 metal head gasket is a cheep way to higher the compresion of the engine more compresion helps with the bangs.
After market lightened flywheels make a big difference to how a vr feels anything lighter than 9 pounds becomes a pain to live with. But remember even tho it feels more revy and responsive you loose touque.
Cams, well if you staying na then go crazy but again becomes a pain in the ass in traffic 182's are lumpy idle and high end revs to see the benefits. As you want to go na aswell bang in a set of uprated valve springs to prevent valve bounce when screaming in the high revs
Shrick manifolds get that low end punch in touque which the vr lacks. Exspensive but worth while im still in the market for one myself but theyre around 700 to 1000 depending on the finish and if you have the control box.
Re maps are your best friend. Vince can sort you out somthing to get all you mods working together nicely! But do it once the harware is installed as it can add up!
Blue printing the bottom end all rods and pistons made to the same weight with a balanced crank and arp studded rods help with high revving
Then head work. But its abit of a art to get a vr 12valve head to flow better leave this to the pros as you can take off too much and loose power.
Good luck mate and sorry for my poor spelling any questions just ask.

Whats your goal for bhp? Pete is probably you best bet as I think his carrado is the highest na vr on the forum. But big money to do it. But here is what ive picked up from here and know from older projects.
First off the 6 branch on a vr6 has very limited gains as the ports are un equal aparently there is only one company thats actully managed a exhaust manifold with gains. Never looked into which company because its so pricey.
But heat is an enemy so heat wrap it up to lower you engine bay temps!
Mk4 metal head gasket is a cheep way to higher the compresion of the engine more compresion helps with the bangs.
After market lightened flywheels make a big difference to how a vr feels anything lighter than 9 pounds becomes a pain to live with. But remember even tho it feels more revy and responsive you loose touque.
Cams, well if you staying na then go crazy but again becomes a pain in the ass in traffic 182's are lumpy idle and high end revs to see the benefits. As you want to go na aswell bang in a set of uprated valve springs to prevent valve bounce when screaming in the high revs
Shrick manifolds get that low end punch in touque which the vr lacks. Exspensive but worth while im still in the market for one myself but theyre around 700 to 1000 depending on the finish and if you have the control box.
Re maps are your best friend. Vince can sort you out somthing to get all you mods working together nicely! But do it once the harware is installed as it can add up!
Blue printing the bottom end all rods and pistons made to the same weight with a balanced crank and arp studded rods help with high revving
Then head work. But its abit of a art to get a vr 12valve head to flow better leave this to the pros as you can take off too much and loose power.
Good luck mate and sorry for my poor spelling any questions just ask.

Whats your goal for bhp? Pete is probably you best bet as I think his carrado is the highest na vr on the forum. But big money to do it. But here is what ive picked up from here and know from older projects.
First off the 6 branch on a vr6 has very limited gains as the ports are un equal aparently there is only one company thats actully managed a exhaust manifold with gains. Never looked into which company because its so pricey.
But heat is an enemy so heat wrap it up to lower you engine bay temps!
Mk4 metal head gasket is a cheep way to higher the compresion of the engine more compresion helps with the bangs.
After market lightened flywheels make a big difference to how a vr feels anything lighter than 9 pounds becomes a pain to live with. But remember even tho it feels more revy and responsive you loose touque.
Cams, well if you staying na then go crazy but again becomes a pain in the ass in traffic 182's are lumpy idle and high end revs to see the benefits. As you want to go na aswell bang in a set of uprated valve springs to prevent valve bounce when screaming in the high revs
Shrick manifolds get that low end punch in touque which the vr lacks. Exspensive but worth while im still in the market for one myself but theyre around 700 to 1000 depending on the finish and if you have the control box.
Re maps are your best friend. Vince can sort you out somthing to get all you mods working together nicely! But do it once the harware is installed as it can add up!
Blue printing the bottom end all rods and pistons made to the same weight with a balanced crank and arp studded rods help with high revving
Then head work. But its abit of a art to get a vr 12valve head to flow better leave this to the pros as you can take off too much and loose power.
Good luck mate and sorry for my poor spelling any questions just ask.

Well just a update, went down to the machine shop to drop off my genuine stem seals and for some reason all my exhaust valves have a slight bend in them which they found when spinning them up to recut them so they are only cleaning on one side. Very strange, but I have a feeling this may have been the slight "popping" sound on idle which it had intermittently. But as for make of valve I think ill go for MAHLE valves as they are a good german engineering company.

Ooh what you doing to the underside? I was tempted to make a rollover jig, but im a pikey countryman so i'll just use a teleporter
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Youve probably seen my other post, but I spoke to vice today and he helped out with which guides to use. But turns out valves are not required and all the play was in the guides.

Ive got the head off, all the guides are fubard the engines done 150,000 miles. Spoke to vince at stelth and he pointed me in the right direction of a good set of guides, problam is im in essex so im going to use my local engine builders. Went to my local engineering shop and they have confirmed just the guides need doing and they said that the guide im using are a very good spec. Cheers vince! Ill be down soon for my map when the chargers on.

Ok so after pulling my head off it revieled all 12 valve guides are worn. So new valves and guides are needed. What make of valve is recomended? Ive been to vw and for all 12 valves im looking at £270. Does anyone know which company made te valves for vw? Any info on this will be grateful.