Cheers Pete.
Not that much to be honest. It's been rather good!
The clutch slave cyl was leaking, resulting in having to pump up the clutch every morning so that was changed for the 2nd time.
New discs, pads and bearings on the rear as they were looking a bit shitty!
And just the routine services really
It's currently off the road as I'm planning to tidy the engine bay up a bit more and do some bodywork I've been meaning to do.
Hi guys. I've been a member for a while now but never got round to doing a members thread so here it is I've owned this Corrado for about 2 years now. I did have another before this one but it was rotten to hell so it had to go! I bought this one for £500 from a guy off of the Corrado forum. It didn't come with much as he originally wanted 1200 for it! I got him to remove the seats, wheels, lights and wipers as they were upgraded lupo ones. I already had a grey leather interior and speed lines ready to be fitted along with all other parts I was missing! When I got her:
After about a week of driving it I fitted a set of coil overs that I had. Straight away it looks so much better but on the other hand I was sort of enjoying not having to brake for every little bump!
This is what I was driving before! Tbh I wish I'd never sold it! Proper bomb proof tdi
On its first outing to the Isle of Wight for Dub Island
This was taken at the CCGB AGM meet at gaydon auto museum. Great day out with aaaaalll the Corrados Ever since I've owned the car it had a leaking rear crank seal! Oil was leaking from it onto the clutch/flywheel causing the clutch to slip quite a bit. After months of collecting up parts and info on the job I put it in a mates unit and got stuck in! The list of things to do was: Timing chains Guides and tensioners Clutch All gaskets It only took me about a week in total but was only working on it for about 2-3 days. I'm training to be a mechanic at the moment but it is surprising how easy vr's are to work on!
It started first time after I'd got it all back together, which was nice. And then about a month later me and a few mates set off for mivw 13'! For any of ya who haven't been......seriously...... You need to! It's not just about the show it's just an awesome week in holland (if you go for that long). The show was epic though! Definitely going again next year!
Since then I've had a few little problems but nothing too bad. For a daily driver it's been great, especially as you get a lot of people being negative about them. Cheers for looking Ben Ps most my photos go on Instagram if you wanna see "Benstringer7"
VR6 Motronic remapping at home courtesy of VR6Joni! What you will need: EPROM programmer, I doubt one exists that will not program a 27C512. A few 27C512's as it's annoying waiting 20mins to blank them! A UV Eraser. A 28 pin DIP socket. Soldering skills. A fairly technical mind! A laptop. VAG-COM A wide band AFR controller. First of all read which ECU you have with the VAG-COM or look at the label on it. It should look something like this:021 906 258CP. The CP is the important bit, this is the code revision which also means the maps will be at different locations in the memory. I have details of where the maps are located for AF or CP revisions up to press and will distribute them on request (PM me). This will make life much easier although I had to work out the locations for myself on my CP ECU so it is possible to do on other versions, just needs a bit of extra work. Remove the ECU! I'm sure there are several guides online, if you need to use them you probably shouldn't be doing this anyway. You can learn from my errors though! Which were the connector latch pulls further out then you may expect and no matter what you might think the ECU will come out with the bracket attached. Once it's out you need to take the the EPROM off the PCB, it's the 28 pin though hole device as pictured. You really should use a rework station for this which has a soldering iron and hot air blower in one unit. I was too eager to wait until I was in work so just used a bog standard hot air gun on LOW! in combination with a soldering iron. I find its easier if you remove excess solder first using a solder sucker. Take note of the orientation of the chip, it should be pin 1 (pin 1 is indicated by the notch on one side of the chip) closer to the centre of the PCB. Once the EPROM is removed, remove excess solder and fit the socket. Now your ready to MAP and REMAP. Original EEPROM
Socket Fitted
Newly Mapped EEPROM in place
Now you will need to set up your EPROM programmer and read the memory with the included software and save it as a binary, make 2 copies, one as an original backup and one to modify. I save a different copy at every stage of the REMAP. Now you will need to download a copy of WINOLS Demo and TunerPro. With TunerPro you need a MAP definitions file called a .XDF, this contains information for the various MAPs in the binary file taken from your ECU's EPROM. The XDF is basically just a list of MAP labels, memory location and conversion factors etc. I have XDF's for the CP and AF ECU's at the moment these may be compatible with other versions though. Install TunerPro and run it, then open a XDF file, the correct one if possible. Then open your .bin file, you should then be able to open various MAP's and you should be looking at a pattern of numbers in a table, if they are random or all the same your probable gonna have to modify the XDF to suit your ECU revision, if it looks like good data ignore the next paragraph. If you need to modify the .XDF file install WINOLS and run it. Create a project with a known binary eg. AF and allow it to find all potential MAPs. Then create another project with your ECUs binary. You should see 2 sets of very similar potential maps, what I would recommend you do is write the address of each known map down in order and look where they are in the potential maps list. Eg. you could find fuel wide open throttle (12x12 MAP) is between a 4x8 MAP and another 12x12 MAP, which just happens to be idle fuelling and WOT map 2. You should be able to see this pattern in your binary with very similar numbers if not the same. Continue this process until you have found all the MAPs that you wish to edit. Note down all the locations and then modify the XDF file to suit. Hopefully now you should have what looks like valid data in TunerPro. Now its time to remap. I'm assuming you've probably done some significant mods by this stage and want to make the use of it so I'll start with WOT maps. If you've done something serious like turbo or supercharge your VR you may well have used Crazy/SensibleDaves (Big thanks to Dave for this) potentiometer mod to get you going, I used an active electronic version to guarantee a linear output. Adjust this to minimise adaption values in measuring block 6 using VAG-COM, you'll have to clock up a few miles for these to appear. Otherwise adjust it so that AFR is good on initial startup and driving. Now you have a drivable car its time to generate some logs, I log ignition timing with VAG-COM and the AFR with Logworks2 software which was included with my Innovate LC-1. Find an airstrip, start logging, stick it in third at idle engine speed and floor it to the redline making sure AFR's stay at none engine killing levels, repeat this logging procedure a few times. For Fuel WOT maps: With your results generate an error factor value table throughout the rev range, I do this by taking a reference point I.e. when you change into 4th, using that point in time write down the AFR's logged next to the engine speeds from the VAGCOM log and work your way backwards referencing the times on the AFR log against the times in the VAGCOM log. Once you have an error factor table copy the Fuel WOT MAP from TunerPro into a spreadsheet and multiply the values by the corresponding engine speed error factors. Then copy the results back into TunerPro, I converted them to an integer in the spreadsheet using the following formula: New Map Value =int(OldMAPValue*ErrorFactor) Example spreadsheet used to calculate corrections required
I found that just changing Fuel WOT MAP 1 works, so what MAP 2 does if a mystery, answers on a postcard please! Or a PM will do. Ignition is a bit more of an art, I look at the timing in the logs and simply adjust timings to try and eliminate detonation. You can tell that knock has been detected as you'll see that the ECU has retarded the timing away from the map values, it does it in quite large steps and is obvious as you see timing jump away from the MAP values by about 5 degrees at a time. (see 5800rpm on example spreadsheet) When you are happy with the changes that have been made save the binary and program a new EPROM with the binary file saved in TunerPro. Plug the new EPROM into the ECU, put the ECU back in the car and take it for a blast, once again logging everything. Repeat the steps above as many times as it takes until your happy, blank the EPROM in the UV eraser as soon as you remove it as when it comes to making smaller tweaks it gets annoying waiting, hence having a couple spare. Original maps as viewed in TunerPro
Why would you only consider entering if we where struggling to fill spaces? We aren't that sort of club and never have been. We aren't all about the show ponies. More than welcome. Is that LB7Z Satin Silver? Not Many of those about.We are more interested in those that regularly participate on the forum and club activities. Than those who have a polished machine in the garage and only bring it out to represent on certain occasions. Don't ever feel like your pride and joy isn't worthy. As that's never the case with the vr6oc.
Benvrg got a reaction from wolverine in POST A SINGLE PIC OF YOUR CAR
