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RBPE

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Everything posted by RBPE

  1. Think it was mulberry and had angel front eyes. Driving up totty road, nice looking mk3.
  2. Some decent times, 9 second quarter for the first time too. What speed you crossing the line at Craggsy?
  3. These are good reading and helps you learn about the workings of VW mechanicals. 821003 Metrics for Mechanics.pdf 821203 The W Engine Concept.pdf 821503 The 2.0L FSI Turbocharged Engine Design and Function.pdf 821603 TDI Diesel.pdf 823603 VW 3.2 and 3.6 liter FSI Engine.pdf 824803 The Volkswagen 2.0 Liter Chain-Driven TSI Engine.pdf 826803 2.0 Liter TDI Common Rail BIN5 ULEV Engine.pdf 840193 3.0-liter V6 TDI Clean Diesel Engine.pdf 841003 Engine Management Systems.pdf 842003 Motronic ME 7 Engine Management System.pdf 843103 Passat W8 Engine Management, Motronic ME 7.1.1.pdf 850103 The 8-Speed
  4. P.S. I'd expect the big MPV shafts to be longer than a mk3 but never owned one so don't know for sure but the track is probably wider.
  5. Have a butchers through the catalogue. Sign up and check parts numbers against the models in question. http://www.vagcat.com/epc/ Jobs underneath a car are far more easier with a lift and when it comes to suspension jobs you may need specialist tools like hub pullers etc. The only way to learn DIY is give it a go, get a Haynes, collect tools and try. It is generally easier to have a garage do that work as a lift takes so much effort out of it plus they should have the tools required (which can run into tens of thousands of pounds) so their labour times are less than DIY with a few tools. P.S.
  6. (Please bear with me on this thread, there's a couple of A5 books i'm going through that I wrote (which are barely legible), plus several hard drives and I need to resize a lot for here too! I'll update it in due course). So, if you're deciding to turbocharge your VR and are not sure what to choose I have added a little information for you to have to hand: The following were worked out for the 2.8 24v motor. I'm going to add the 12V and 3.2 engines and also various VE's, rev limit's and peak torque values to work to depending on the state of tune of your set up. A good tuner will tell you that
  7. P.S. I thought I should add this: With regards to the design and development of the inlet manifold there are also other aspects to take into account. As an example my last mani development was for my MR2 turbo. This uses a TVIS system and this differs from, as an example, the 24v mani's as the 24v has it pretty much built into the plenum. With my tubby it has a sort of twin runner design and a horizontal flap system that is closed until a set rpm. Basic physics/flow characteristics denotes that a smaller orifice that a quantity of air has to dynamically flow through means a higher speed at the
  8. Is that strictly true fish (kev is it?). The Schrick mani has a smoother air path at the TB but the plenum volume and runner lengths determine the peak torque characteristics, therefore it'll likely be helmholtz frequency tuned for a standard engine set-up and it's peak torque characteristics for the std cams etc seeing as it was going to be a std option from VW. Or is it they have a varying resonance and std's do not via a change over in pathways? (6 years ago I last built a 12vt and just fabbed a srim for the peak torque of the turbo/boost we were using, easier than forking out for these th
  9. RBPE

    turbo kit

    You also have to remember that there seems to be some differences in refinery processes between countries, for example the US 93 ron seems to be equal to UK 95 ron when performance tests have occured (through owners with same set-ups that is). Although these are obviously ratings which are universally generic in nature via a standardised test, it's why many major manufacturers will provide a fairly standardised map and de-tune and engine, that and the varying emissions regulation between countries. US kits are fine if the turbo is situated well for UK opposite end brake cyl/servo and your com
  10. No probs, i've done tons of engine swaps over the past 24 years, so just give us a shout if your stuck, it's a 900hp 24vt to be correct but may rebuild and sell R32 and use 2.8 to negate costs as it's getting expensive! Welding that will be no problem but with regards to porting - are they doing it on a bench and matching the flow correctly? By hand or CNC? Porting blind can seriously impede flow at various lifts (usually lower) and it can do more harm than good at times unless you're well versed in the engine. Using a bench as you go along, unless it's a bench flow developed CNC programme fo
  11. Hard to tell from pics. If it's deep damage then it' raise compression too much if staying NA. I've rebuilt a lot worse but wouldn't for someone else unless absolutely necessary. A weld-up, fine grind and light skim is your best bet so as not to raise comp too much and a proper weld will be as strong, if not stronger than original material. If you're paying someone then you pay for labour and I have taken weeks repairing engines before but they were mainly my own, if you've got the tools and knowledge then it's not too much of problem. However, there are some people that would not do a corre
  12. Nice to hear it's getting there. I forgot to ask, are you running a standard inlet manifold? You have to remember in terms of fluid dynamics that with a huge length the incoming air has to travel (Filter,(bend) pipe, maf, pipe, compressor, pipe, intercooler, pipe, tb, inlet manifold plenum, runner, port) your level of friction at low revs where the air is ingested in smaller amounts/speeds will be very high, resulting in turbulence, especially with a pre maf elbow! As you are tuning the idling/low end response, the atomisation of air/fuel could be poor due to the amount of restrictions place
  13. Luckily I was never the one to have to tune my cars but the MAF was always a PITA and they always needed a large, straight piece of piping whichever car it was. I would defo think that cone filter would direct air around the wire somewhat and maf's hate turbulence. Have you added a larger maf housing now it's boosted?
  14. Lol, just saw the pictures and thought that, it's okay in the US but we dont have the weather here. MAF's do need a fair bit of straight piping, usually a good foot or so. I'd go Hybrid or MAP to be honest. You're cheapest and best options would be to either shorten the piping, but you'll need to keep the big filter, (see far too many with undersized restrictive filters!), which means a bit of cutting of the wings etc, maybe use an all weather air filter sock like bike's do. http://www.rolandsands.com/products/internally-mounted-rain-sock Or... fabricate a splash guard and housing for the filt
  15. They use the DBB GT25 based turbo's, usually either 2554's or 2560's. You have to remember that at 97%VE (I worked it all out on 24v heads so probably a bit less for the 12v heads), you only need around 28-29psia (about 1 bar of boost) to hit nigh on 50lbs/min of flow (maybe 45+ with the 12v heads). With the ko3's pushing 20odd lb/min max you're going to be maxing them out at low boost. The GT25 based one's will even max out at less than 1.5bar on well tuned VR6. Here's some boost plots I did for the 24v running 97%VE in various capacities and 7k rpm max. I have all the info you need, from f
  16. It's asking for trouble fitting a filter so low, hydrolocking methinks on the wet days!?
  17. A machine shop should be able to knock you up some conversion flanges pretty cheap but if you're doing it on the stock mani then they are going to be placed low. Induction/comp side to passenger like the lhd ones but they are situated higher and d-p needs to be shielded from brake cyl/servo., plus there could be some increased back-pressure due to the D-P's needing to twist a bit when they are low. Less lag is a bit of a fallicy to be honest as the argument for less rotational inertia due to mass of turbine wheel is negated by the fact you have half the volume of gas flowing to them. For examp
  18. Nice, they make some cracking engines does Toyota, tinkered with many a 3S-GTE in my time. You planning on upgrading it?
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