RBPE
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Everything posted by RBPE
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Peak torque is shifted higher up on FI engines plus you have the forcing of air so short runners okay for that, but unless you're going for a very high revving engine (not really the best engine to do that on being undersquare tbh), then you'll be better keeping the stock manifold for more low end torque - depends on your goals though I suppose!
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Yes, generally made with lots of other mods as well just for normal fuel, na to fi is about the hardest thing you can do on Motronic, either on a flash based tune or the mods needed inc. custom coding and parts. There are a few ways you can go about it, best bet is to learn the basics on the Function Sheets online, things like BGSRM, BGRLP, BGAGR etc which can all have an influence on the relative charge, load, rpm's etc which is what you need to do. I've put up plenty of links to the various aspects but it can get quite complicated and depends on what you can do and how you go about it. I'll
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Variable geometry (Schrick) is generally better than fixed as it is designed to operate more efficiently more often (i.e. various rpm's), you just have to think about turbo placement and manifolds where the inlet tract is/the packaging constraints, plus heat soak etc https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311615696_Effect_of_Variable_Length_Intake_Manifold_on_Performance_of_IC_Engine
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Making 02 bungs in a cast mani is generally the way many do it, emulates the big name tunes. The two ways are generally like those, manipulating the air modelling whilst taking into account the P/I portions required to a degree (rl/rpm/egt/evap/vvt etc) and forcing open loop, or alternatively running it like oem on closed/open loop and taking into account the PID, adding either simple custom PID routines or more detailed patches and heavily modding the electronics to suit - both quite difficult in their own ways. The ignition (KFZW) on these isn't too bad at low load/rpm, prob need
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Without the ecu mod/box they'll be stuck in one position anyway dep on what ecu you're using, so make sure oem ecu mods for it or if going aftermarket, that those ecu's can control it. Is it a 2 port design, not barrell like the 24v, so one port will speed gas up giving better low flow rate but ultimately becoming a bottle-neck creating turbulence, heating the air up more and losing you power as the air flow increases and the dual ports will lose you this low gas speed in exchange for top end flow and opposites of above. If control is like the 24v's then it'd prob be stuck in power posit
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CDLSHV - Codeword diagnosis Lambda probe exchange detection Cayenne's pretty much identical in this respect from what I remember, 100+ maps/functions for the 02, most testers/diagnostics and some aging/heating and limits etc, it's all Bosch ME. You need a good def file, makes it a lot easier and there are some on the Net for these Porsche's, ecuconnections has some but you'll need to make some posts to see them I think.
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Not sure why that's playing up? Screenshot it for you anyway;
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I'm not sure, it's probably been nearly ten years since I did anything with an old 12v to be honest and not far off in terms of building a car or engine! What I can say is that these somewhat simple upgrades in an R32 head seem pretty good for this amount of power and these high revs, so.... I'll let you make your own mind up as to how much modifications you need for high hp! https://www.turboimpression.de/ueber-den-zulieferer-6?lang=en
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It's contradiciting because it depends really! Displacement, revs and boost pressure (aka efficiency as desired) - they're the main ingredients for hp, how you go about that usually depends on budget and reason for high goals such as this. Simply put - you can get this power from a fairly stock engine with a few mods as mentioned in many threads, but generally, the more you do the better. I usually say for people to do the basics first, which would be refreshing as much as you can afford as the parts of your car have been used and abused over the years to a degree
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Dual 02 mani like HGP/HPA or single 02 conversion. I had Kompiesto draught me a quick guide for the DIY folks (thanks Marcin), which you can find here; https://app.box.com/file/302875520967 EDIT - There's a 2-1 and 1-2 split on which bank of cylinders read which on the dual route, best to get that right if you go down that route
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Yeah something like carprog should work, depends on tools/ecu, the need to desolder etc, there should be a few threads about online that tell you, it can really vary between ecu's and flashing tools what data you get or can manipulate on these, as well as which C166 ecu you are using given the variance.
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What you can do on these or any ecu really, depends on how well, or not, your flashing tool interacts with the ecu plus what you use to read the data with. You can get tools that will not only give you the flash but also the mcu etc as well, even then the data within it could be off depending on what tools you are using to read/reverse it. Even if you use a normal tool and just get the usual data/eeprom for flashing like on most tools, then even then tools can vary on the data given, a point I was trying to get at in the BDE tuning thread - some tools you'll have rpm data there to change
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I know what you are saying but even with the same letters there can be differences, not that they wouldn't cross flash although there can be problems there as mentioned, just that maps alone have differences. BT is coming up as a Porsche Cayenne ecu with some people touting it as Porsche and Toureg. As an example this is a Cayenne one against and VR6 24V one (032T v's 032BM) - you can see a very similar structure (green) but you can also see differences between maps due to all the reasons mentioned. Like I say, if you don't know how to modify this data it could have problems, best bet is
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All ME7.1.1. are 022906032 - the variances between them are; inlet only vvt, full inlet, 2 point exhaust vvt, 02 number variances and limiters and removals market depending, engine and cyl volume variances in the ecu, dsg v manual, hfm maps and the evolution of the c166 which I think has at least 3 variances (early c167, c167 evolution/hybrid and st10) and differences in protocols/immo aspects between c167's and st10's, so certain tools can work on early but not the later st10........ these are just some of the differences off the top of my head between the 022 906 032 only on VW/Audi 2.8's a
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You normally have to piece together these kinds of files using the mk4 R32 full definition files on there, you can do most of it easy enough, the above I only took a few minutes to do as there's no point me doing BDF stuff over here, so look at my posts on Nef and you'll find all you need to put together a full definition file on these....... or at least more than any other place on the net at least! E.G. I did them quickly just to help this guy, above are just direct links for the files in that post; http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10385.0
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Overview of your 24v ecu folks, all VR6 24V/R32 are ME7.1.1., called 022906032 (x/xx), apart from mk4 12V US models (M.E.7.1.) - not much info about on me7.1.1. as it's a hybrid evolution of ME7 and MED7/9.... trust me after 10 years but this is the overview from VW.... http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_249.pdf
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I uploaded my Nef stuff to the post above to save time, may as well give it you from source instead of jumpin through hoops and signing up, it should all help I hope, I'll do tons more when I have time!
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BDF below https://app.box.com/s/dndxhhf9mfs8upe7epvegl2g3s1gn0n0 https://app.box.com/s/vz2495jhri0z5dtd6bag6lwe7l9xqh0t https://app.box.com/s/amhav11oyh0rj10vcpooksper8q2fl6w https://app.box.com/s/qs7ql9ot3p27yg5yl5eulk7zgp7571st
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Nope, well maybe, if you're in the US then you're better signing up on Nefmoto and getting files from this thread and I don't do BDF generally being in the UK, but it's not massively different, just some 02 not being 4wd and speed limiter stuff. Nef link - http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=10385.msg97338#msg97338
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2.8 VR6 24v VF engineering stage 2 power numbers?
RBPE replied to MecModMax VR6 24v's topic in Engine Tuning
"I did several runs that day, best one was 302whp and 232wtq, and the worst one was low 280ish whp." is what this guy said; EDIT - He says 5.5psi of boost on the run which seems low for a stage2? -
There should be plenty of info in terms of parts/hybrid/hardware etc on a quick search, been years since I've done conversions myself, but for example; Main thing is the sheer differences between the mk3 and 4 set ups in terms of the old Motronic 2/3 v's the ME7.1.1. - quick list off the top of my head; obvious wiring and coding out of bits like airbags, cluster, SAI etc depending on what you use/how you go about it, 02A 5 spped box v's 02M 6 speed, then there's the mk4 being fly-by-wire so you'll need pedal box as you've not got the cable of the mk3 if using the mk4 ecu an
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ID's are good injectors, just the times on the 1000's are a fair bit higher, 725's much better. Most just go with Bosch one's, people have had linearisation problems with Siemens
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.... from a fairly stock R32 head with just cams and springs, those crazy German's are creating some beasts! As he doesn't seem to get many views compared to some on the tube I thought I'd help bump it up, plus you lot like a bit of VR porn! A couple of oldies but goodies; I think the chase cars about 400hp! The website on the car; https://www.turboimpression.de/ueber-den-zulieferer-6?lang=en
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Some tasteful mods there, I like! Clutch options would generally be something like a single mass conversion from Sachs or similar from someone like a US company, Clutchmasters etc, generally about a grand or so with more chatter but good pedal feel, you'd be limited to about 450lb/ft of torque with something like that usually though. If not a daily you could prob use a 4/6 paddle grabby one which tend to hold a little over 500lb/ft depending on make, the US companies do some good variations of them. Ultimate high power daily you'd be looking at a high tq multi disc one for a good c
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300hp is very, very low boost, 10-12psi only would net you in-between 350-400hp depending on efficiency! You could run stock comp for 300hp+ but for longevity's sake try and replace as many nuts/bolts etc as you can if adding a de-comp plate and of course add an intercooler for the charge. Injectors would generally be dictated by what tune you are running, try and stick with Bosch if you can, 550's are popular but again, depends on the tune usually. As for turbo, a good HX35 with 11-13cm turbine housing would be a good choice or maybe something from one of the JDM type of companies
