c00k

Vince from stealth racing is a top bloke and really knows his stuff.
I would second stealth racing as the company I would choose. But it's up to you guys, as there your cars

Thermostate housing, in Ali.
So they won't crack or break on the inner lip. 
I know you can already get metal ones, but there about 300, and made in the states I think. 
So wonder how much they would be from China. 

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More process on boot build
20160923_193634 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
 
Bit of CAD. Card aided design
20160918_124224 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
 
20160918_130051 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
 
And into mdf
 
20160924_105459 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
20160924_112127 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
20160924_115446 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
 
Hole cut for sub. All in and working 
20160924_123846 by Dominic Joy, on Flickr
 
Will tidy wiring then move on to seat section.

Yeah man 
 
We've been chatting in PM also. 

PM'd

Nightmare mate, 
atleast it didn't hydro lock, 
so long as you get rid of all the water like your are doing, hopefully all should be good. 
 
Snorkel kit you need, going up side of windscreen haha 

Nightmare mate, 
atleast it didn't hydro lock, 
so long as you get rid of all the water like your are doing, hopefully all should be good. 
 
Snorkel kit you need, going up side of windscreen haha 

While I had the rear bumper off I sorted a few patches of rust on the rear arches, before they got to bad and turned in to holes, 
 
One of the rusty areas. Like I said before this is just my daily. Not a mint show car. 

 
Ground the areas back so almost all the rust was gone. Then started to treating the very minor remaining rust with rust treatment gel, and wire brushing it.

 
Another area I ground back before treating remaining rust.
 
 
 
The very bottom of the rear inner arches wasn't the best either, so need attention. It looks a lot worse than it actually was in the photo as it's covered in rust treatment.
 
 
After grinding the areas, treating with rust removing gel, finally treated the areas with some rust nuterlising treatment, and got them in to some high build primer.

 
Sanded the areas nice and smooth and blended the primed in. Then got them in to some colour coat. 

 
Knew my old max power magazines would come in useful one day. Lol 
Tried making a soft edge to blend the paint a bit more by just folding the edge of paper and not taping directly where I'm painting. 
 
While I had the compressors and touch up gun out, I repainted the plastic booth plinth.
couldn't be assed to take it off car, as two of the screws were knackered and needed drilling out. 

 
Also got a few more layers on the passenger window lip. 

 
 
Fianly not got everything in to lacquer. 

 
There was a tiny bit of over spray I buffed off the next day with my mop. I was using a small touch up gun, 0.8mm and lowest pressure. 
 
 
 
Got a black cap for my windscreen washer tank, can see in some of my pervious post it used to be blue. 

 
Helps it blend in a bit more.

 
 
 
 
 
 

here are a few recent pics of the car complete
 
car got reversed into by a takeaway driver and ruined the door had that damage for 6 months  finally got a door and fitted it 

received yesterday   
 

 
IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME DREAMING ABOUT THOSE    ..................    PSS9      :):)

You'll get there in the end mate, 
compressor test you piping, to check for boost leaks. 
Few DIY guide on you tube if your not 100% sure how you do it. 
It's easy to make the stuff you need. Plus you need a compressor with an adjustable regulator you can set to the same as you max boost. 
 

Well done buddy  

Got my Audi 80 gauges fitted, and all wired up. 
Not hard at all to wire up, just need 12v, 12v switched, ground, illumination, and single wire each for the sensors. 
I was suprissed at how easy they were to fit. 

 
 
Fainly got a photo of my boost gauge that has been in there ages now lol 

 
All the gauges have red illumination to match dials and all my switches.
 
 
 
I've had my 280mm steering wheel in there for ages now, I do still like it but fancied a change. 

 
So I bought an Audi TT mk2 flat bottom steering wheel, 
Direct fit, if your willing to loose the air bag and horn. (Or wire horn up to push switch on dash) 
I wanted the horn in the centre of the steering wheel, not on a dash button like a lot of people when they retro fitting flat bottom steering wheels, so I custom fitted the golf mk3 slip ring to the flat bottom steering wheel. Giving me the horn function in the Center of the steering wheel.
 
 
 
Bought a MK7 golf airbag cover, which is slight smaller than the Audi one, but it has a VW badge in the middle
I'm thinking of painting the sliver part gloss black, abit like the RS3 steering wheel. 
I'm also hoping to re-wire the buttons and get them illimanted, as they already are red. 
But the problem is they are meant to communicate with a can-bus system. Not OBD2 with centeral electrics. 

 

the black on the centre of seat is just a black towel, so the drivers seat doesn't get dirty while I'm working on it. 
 
I have have a few ideas of what to do with the buttons on the steering wheel. 

Got my Audi 80 gauges fitted, and all wired up. 
Not hard at all to wire up, just need 12v, 12v switched, ground, illumination, and single wire each for the sensors. 
I was suprissed at how easy they were to fit. 

 
 
Fainly got a photo of my boost gauge that has been in there ages now lol 

 
All the gauges have red illumination to match dials and all my switches.
 
 
 
I've had my 280mm steering wheel in there for ages now, I do still like it but fancied a change. 

 
So I bought an Audi TT mk2 flat bottom steering wheel, 
Direct fit, if your willing to loose the air bag and horn. (Or wire horn up to push switch on dash) 
I wanted the horn in the centre of the steering wheel, not on a dash button like a lot of people when they retro fitting flat bottom steering wheels, so I custom fitted the golf mk3 slip ring to the flat bottom steering wheel. Giving me the horn function in the Center of the steering wheel.
 
 
 
Bought a MK7 golf airbag cover, which is slight smaller than the Audi one, but it has a VW badge in the middle
I'm thinking of painting the sliver part gloss black, abit like the RS3 steering wheel. 
I'm also hoping to re-wire the buttons and get them illimanted, as they already are red. 
But the problem is they are meant to communicate with a can-bus system. Not OBD2 with centeral electrics. 

 

the black on the centre of seat is just a black towel, so the drivers seat doesn't get dirty while I'm working on it. 
 
I have have a few ideas of what to do with the buttons on the steering wheel. 

hi everyone, its been too long since an update has come along and I guess quite a bit has happened.
 
knowing that my car was always going to need the engine bay shaving and the underneath protecting whilst looking through Facebook I saw a Dragon Green MK3 rolling shell for sale that had smoothed body work, been welded and protected underneath with straight sills and most importantly a shaved bay.  I couldn't say no to the price so a trailer was hired and I went down to J-tech Automotive to pick it up.
 
it wasn't 100% as it appeared in the pictures but the money saved over all will certainly help to tidy it up.
 

 
in the mean time SS autowerks have taken delivery of my intercooler and radiator which they are now using to fabricate the tubular front end.


 
and that's about as far as things have got, the front end is coming along nicely and will give a lot more space for the Mishimoto radiator and intercooler to be fitted and not have to hack the bumper to pieces either.
 
I will still be using the original car for the mocking up and fabrication work which can then be transferred to the new car e.g. roll cage, turbo mani and front end.
 
the new car will then have to go back for the seat mounts and CAE shifter blanking plate to be fabbed in also.
 
thanks for looking!

Well done buddy  

Just want to share this music Video. The VR6 is a highly respected car in South Africa especially in the townships! The Nickname for a VR6 in South Africa is "Vura" As a VR6 owner in SA you will get respect no matter where you are on South Africa roads..

Haven't updated this for ages, I never seem to get 5 spare minutes, one of the many joys of parenthood as I'm discovering! after a bit of use a few weeks back I realised that there seemed to be antifreeze stains appearing under the bonnet, then realised a couple of days before VW festival that it was the water pump, luckily I had a new one about from the other engine I'm building for the car , so got it on there after having much fun with rounded/seized bolts on the water pump pulley! The car then ran without a hiccup or sign of a leak all the way to Leeds and back! VW Festival was also absolutely brilliant, had such a giggle with the rest of the VR6oc crew!
Then the other day a Votex front lip appeared locally on eBay for not much money and though I'd been after a Henri Lloyd lip for I don't know how long, I thought I'd have a 'crack' at this crack being the best word for it! Cheers Wayne!
A day or 2 later after much grinding cut drilling riveting, fibreglassing painting etc etc, it's was back in one piece and repainted in black texture paint, I now really liked it and hoped it would fit a US bumper! And after even more cutting, trimming filing etc, it did!

Tried my red HT leads on engine, 


Then bought some purple HT leads, they're not the shade of purple I was hoping for, so I'm not sure if I like them. 
I have spare black and red leads, so not sure which to run at the mo. 

 
Few spots of rust around the front passenger window that needed attention. 
(If this was my black VR it would of got cut out and welded, or whole door replaced most probs. But I fancied trying something different on this one as it just my daily) 



Removed  door card, window and mechanisms, window seals, and wing mirror. 
Masked up surrounding area. And sanded the rust back. 
Then started to treat the remaining rust with some rust remover gel. 


cleaned the gel and repeated 3-4 time. Once 98-99% of the rust was gone I treated the remaining 1% with rust nuterlising treatment. Hoping this will be enough to stop the rust returning. But only time will tell. 

After treating the metal I sprayed on some high build primer and left to dry. 


Finally I sand it smooth and sprayed it mulberry.
But I didn't to take a photo. 
 
 
Two things missing from Golf Mk3's as dailies are.... A front Center arm rest and a left (clutch) footrest.
My black VR has a genuine golf mk3 footrest I sourced few years ago. Yes they make a MK3 foot rest. I believe they come from a special edition diesel, but not 100%. I tried to find another one for this car, but I can't seem to find any for sale at the mo. 
So I bought a Golf mk5 footrest.

I'm halfway through custom fitting it. Photos to come soon. 
 
 
As for the arm rest I bought an after market one meant to fit a Golf mk3. Only problem was they are designed to fit a standard center console. Not a highline center console. 
Instead of swapping to a standard center console. As I like the highline one and how it surrounds the handbrake, I had to customise the mount so it would fit. 
 
Mount that came with arm rest designed to fit a standard center console. 



Starting to customising the mount. I didn't get a photo of the finished mount. But this was in the first stages. 


Then got it fitted nicely to the highline center console, and fitted back in to car. 


 
 
 
 
Removed the highline gear knob to restore it. 
A pervious owner had sprayed it black, I guess to trying to hide the few worn areas. 

 
Sanded back with 800 grit, and I'm going to re-stain and spray a few layers of varnish. Still waiting for my varnish to be derived and then I can fishing it. 

 
 
More to come soon....

Tried my red HT leads on engine, 


Then bought some purple HT leads, they're not the shade of purple I was hoping for, so I'm not sure if I like them. 
I have spare black and red leads, so not sure which to run at the mo. 

 
Few spots of rust around the front passenger window that needed attention. 
(If this was my black VR it would of got cut out and welded, or whole door replaced most probs. But I fancied trying something different on this one as it just my daily) 



Removed  door card, window and mechanisms, window seals, and wing mirror. 
Masked up surrounding area. And sanded the rust back. 
Then started to treat the remaining rust with some rust remover gel. 


cleaned the gel and repeated 3-4 time. Once 98-99% of the rust was gone I treated the remaining 1% with rust nuterlising treatment. Hoping this will be enough to stop the rust returning. But only time will tell. 

After treating the metal I sprayed on some high build primer and left to dry. 


Finally I sand it smooth and sprayed it mulberry.
But I didn't to take a photo. 
 
 
Two things missing from Golf Mk3's as dailies are.... A front Center arm rest and a left (clutch) footrest.
My black VR has a genuine golf mk3 footrest I sourced few years ago. Yes they make a MK3 foot rest. I believe they come from a special edition diesel, but not 100%. I tried to find another one for this car, but I can't seem to find any for sale at the mo. 
So I bought a Golf mk5 footrest.

I'm halfway through custom fitting it. Photos to come soon. 
 
 
As for the arm rest I bought an after market one meant to fit a Golf mk3. Only problem was they are designed to fit a standard center console. Not a highline center console. 
Instead of swapping to a standard center console. As I like the highline one and how it surrounds the handbrake, I had to customise the mount so it would fit. 
 
Mount that came with arm rest designed to fit a standard center console. 



Starting to customising the mount. I didn't get a photo of the finished mount. But this was in the first stages. 


Then got it fitted nicely to the highline center console, and fitted back in to car. 


 
 
 
 
Removed the highline gear knob to restore it. 
A pervious owner had sprayed it black, I guess to trying to hide the few worn areas. 

 
Sanded back with 800 grit, and I'm going to re-stain and spray a few layers of varnish. Still waiting for my varnish to be derived and then I can fishing it. 

 
 
More to come soon....

Hey guys,
 
Got some spare time on my hands so thought i'd upload some pics of my daily VR 
 
Only had it for 2 years and already cost me a small fortune  
 
Current mods are a full milltek exhaust system and Ram air induction, seeing just under 200hp
 
Engine is strong and had the chains re-done recently. Plan is to stay OEM although the Vento front end is really appealing to me right now.
 
Contemplating putting in a Rotrex charger    
 

 

 

 
New wheels on....
 

 

 
- Raj

Hi Guys
 
I thought I would do an update as I have found some time to do some work on the car and ive even managed to take it to a couple of shows. Because I was taking it to some shows there were a couple of things I wanted to sort out as they were letting the car down.
 
first of all was the rear tail lights. They have been tint sprayed red previously but the light has got them and started to turn them orange as you can see
 

 
So I masked them up and re-tinted them to get them looking half decent again
 

 

 
Im pretty happy with how they came out and i think it makes the back of the car look much better
 

 
 
Next I moved on to the rear arches. I had previously put some carbon fibre effect vinyl on the bottom of the rear arches as i was getting a lot of stone chips and I was hoping this would help stop them. however the vinyl want strong enough and I thought it looked a little crap, as you can see
 

 
So I went out and bought some 3M gel coated carbon fibre vinyl that I believe has actual weave impregnated into it, I really like the way it looks and I am hoping the gel coating will help protect against stone chips. Here's how it looks on the car, I think the results are much better!
 

 

 
After completing this and giving the car a clean I then moved on to the interior. I had noticed that the paint had started to wear through in the footwells from getting in and out the car all the time, so I decided to get the black paint out and go over any areas that needed attention. I then decided to mount some floor mats in there on velcro just to make life a little easier. next I turned my attention to all the aluminium components and the rear strut brace. because the car has sat outside for so long the light had faded the powder coat on the strut brace and dulled all the polished parts. So i repainted the strut brace and got the polish out and repolished all the aluminium. i even stripped the shifter down and got that on the bench polisher to make it super bling!!!! Here are the results
 

 

 
I am very happy with how it has come out, it turns out you can polish a turd!!!! here  is a couple of shots of the car all clean
 

 

 
Thats all for now, but I will have a big update soon as I am currently doing some work on the car that im quite excited about!

Fair enough dude. 
Main thing it got you there and back with very little drama  

You most probably don't want to read or hear this, but it's worth knowing.... 
I would check the small oil holes, on bottom of the camshaft bearing (which are called the camshalfs saddle I believe) 
Each camshaft saddle should have it's own oil feed hole, with the two either end of the cylinder head having grooves. One of these could have become blocked from the debbry from the old broken con rod bearing, or other junk and crap. 
VR6's (plus many other cars) run on these 'plane' style bearings. They work by the shaft floating on a thin film of oil, using the hydroplane principle.
That is why there is no traditional bearings like on small block Chevys and some very old ford. They were done away with along time ago. 
If the film of oil is insufficient or none existent between the camshaft and it's saddle to much friction can be caused. Large amounts of friction can cause huge damage. Like camshalfs snapping. 
 
Either bad casting or what I just mentioned are the only two reasons I can think of for a camshaft to snap like that.