daveyboy

cheers Pete. Carl get my side warmed up. No spooning either

Your on the two seater pal.

cheers Pete. Carl get my side warmed up. No spooning either

I like the first one with fire

Dan stop cheating

Went to my local pirtek branch to make up my oil lines as didn't have correct tools here to do the job and wanted peace of mind 🏻



They have done a great job and only £38 - I supplied the lines and they supplied fittings.

Not yet, it's running the base map for a VRT that came pre installed on the Emerald. Need to get it in asap to get it mapped properly so will come back with the figures! 

The bloke who fixed it for you to put sausages in your mouth blind folded
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Oo, suits you sir!!!!

The bloke who fixed it for you to put sausages in your mouth blind folded
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F**k yous ye bunch of bitches
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F**k yous ye bunch of bitches
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I'll 100% be there for the day Carl but I also plan on being there for the weekend
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I'll be there for the whole weekend.

That's the reason it says "Maybe".

Pete are you sure you can travel that far north?
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I should be there for the weekend
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To cut back paint or laqucer and remove swirls and restore, you need a decent compound pad. The likes of halfords pads, and most bought locally are to soft for cutting back. There okay for polishing, but no cutting back. 
I use a menzerna compound pad, and merguiars dimond cut 2.0 cutting compound.  
 
Work small sections at a time, I divide the bonnet in to 3 sections, each door 3 sections, (top section above and around window, middle of door and bump strip, bottom of door below bump strip), Roof in to 5 sections (4 squares at the back, and one section that goes around the sides of sun roof and in front). 
These sections are all in my head, I do not divide them up with tape, some people do but I just keep them in my head. 
I like to tape and cover all black plastics and rubbers, as I find my cutting compound sticks to them very badly, and can only be removed with cleaning alcohol (isopropanol), white spirits or thinners. None of which are idea to be putting on plastic or rubbers. 
Reason I taped up the head lights, and grill was I had already detail cleaned the head lights while they were off the car, and didn't want to have to do it again, and the grill to stop cutting compound and polish flinging into the rads, and getting stuck. And my middle section is black plastic not body colour. 
 
Clay the car 1st to remove tar and sticky spots, as this stops it getting trapped on the buffing pad and getting dragged and moved to other areas of car.  
 
When cutting start on a slow speed to spread the compound out, this stops it slinging everywhere. Then speed up to about 2,500-3,000. I never go above 3,800, no need, my buffer can do 6,000. Never needed more then 3,800, the higher speed doesn't cut or polish any better it just makes more of a mess, as it's to fast. 
Fully break down the cutting compound. Until it turns in to a hazy finish, and isn't white any more.  
Nice even pressure on the head of the buffer. Try and keep the pad flat against the paint. Never uses just the edges of the pad. 
Some areas may require a 2nd maybe even a 3rd cut to get decent result. 
 
I take it your using a DA buffer, not a rotary? 
DA are a lot more forgiving and easier to use. But will take slightly longer for decent end result. 
Rotray can get the job done faster, but take a lot more skill to use, and can cause major damage if used incorrectly. 
 
Never cross contaminate pads. Put one polish on it, then put a different polish on it. This is a huge NO for me. I write on the back of mine. On the Velcro with a thin marker pen, what polish it's for. 
 
Polishing - use a softer pad, and read the bottle, some like to be wiped off straight away, some like to be left for 10-15 mins, then wiped off. So read the bottle to check what they recommend. 
Again start on a slow speed to spread it out, then increase speed to about 3,500. Again fully break down polish until a hazy finish. 
 
 
Order it should go, you can miss some layers (like glaze) but not re-order them. They should always go in this order. 
1. Clean / wash (with 2 buckets and grit guards) 
2. Dry 
3. Clay / paint cleaner 
4. Cutting 
5. Glaze 
6. Sealer 
7. Polish /wax 
8. Top coat / top sealer (top sealer is different to normal sealer) 
 
You can build up multiple layers if wanted, but it must still be in order. If you've already finished waxed it, you should never go back and glaze it over the top. 
It wouldn't bond to the wax properly, glaze has been made and designed to bond direct to paint / laqucer. Not wax. So the correct order of apply stuff can be very important. 
 

Hi Dave, I am on the VW Festival Corrado display this year so wont be able to get on VR6's stand, sorry dude, will pop over and say hi though

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I reckon the buzzard and Andy will be game on for this daveyboy

Any one else fancy this? It's a great weekend, always busy and plenty to do
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I'll add you to the 2016 list mate
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Dave you can put me down as a possible please, I might have the raddo up and running and sorted by then providing you get it painted
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I'll add you to the 2016 list mate
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