russj249

UPDATE 2! I have a spare ECU, transponder coil, immob box and key, so I swapped everything over (i know it won't run well as it's a standard ecu, but even if it fired for a couple of seconds I'd know) to cut a long story short, still no start, have exactly the same fault codes on the new ECU, key, immob and pickup, so if it really was an immob fault, it shouldn't do it on the other ECU, but it does! So, I have no other ideas what to try next. Engine management 109 relay is new, fuel pump 167 relay is new and works in my boss's vr6 so not those. No fault codes in engine management section

UPDATE... Got back from work today and as I suspected, as soon as I plugged immob box back in under steering column, it connected to VCDS instantly on both engine management and immob sections. So, if I keep the box plugged in, along with the transponder pick-up plugged in too, I get 2 codes. 01176 65-10 key unauthorized (intermittent) 01176 07-00 key signal too low If I unplug the transponder pickup wire from the box, I get the fault code, 01128 immob pickup coil (D2) 35-00. Still no start, codes clear and return instantly.

However I've just thought, I wonder if it's because I have immob box on steering column disconnected that's causing VCDS not to connect?

I thought the standard immob would allow car to start, then cut out after 1 second.. then not effect the car until it was turned off and try to start again? Stealth phoned me when I sent it to them and said it's already been removed, so I'm just going by what they say. They said it might be because I still had the transponder chip and receiver plugged in, so giving mixed signals. So ive removed the box and transponder pickup ring and still no good.

Ive been having big problems with my VR6 turbo not starting after 6 months of no use. It logs an immob fault code and won't start, I managed to find that on my laptop so got in touch with Stealh and sent it off to be done, BUT according to Stealth Racing the immob has been removed from ECU already! All that happens is fuel pump relay 167 clicks on and off while cranking, also I can't get onto engine, or immob on VCDS, yet I can get onto airbag and ABS (so nothing wrong with laptop or leads). I could get onto this before I sent it away, but I don't think it's the ECU at fault. Before i sent it

Lift up your gear gaiter, and have a look at the pivoting bit when you move the gear selector side to side. If I had a guess it's got play in there, and you should be able to see the play in it when you put in gear and wiggle the gear stick. A quickshift kit will reduce the throw, which is the distance between 1st and 2nd or 3rd and 4th, but wont do much for side to side movement, and definitely not fix any side to side excess play if the pivot part has gone. Gear linkages aren't really necessary as new ones won't really have much of an effect, but maybe new ones might slide a bit easier to f

lol fair enough! (

How did you get on with this mate?

As you look at mine, you have the adjuster nuts, and the locking nuts after that. My locking nuts are only just about on the thread if that makes sense?

Yes make sure you chock the front wheels and leave it gear, handbrake off, then wind the nuts off as far as you can without them falling off. Then feel the handbrake and it should be completely slack, and if you look at cables through ash tray, they should be completely floppy. If you take a pic of how far the nuts are wound on before you loosen them, then the nuts should be no where near that after its all adjusted up.

When the calipers were fitted, were the pistons wound out so they were tight onto pads? Or were they fitted and then the slack taken up on the adjuster by handbrake? It might be that the lever on the one side cant pull on any more if that calipers aren't adjusted evenly. If I were you, get the ash tray out the back and wind off the adjuster nut off until its right on the end of the thread and completely slack. Then before doing anything, make sure the levers on the back of the calipers are both firmly back on their stops. If they are, its got a good chance your cables are OK. Now if you undo t

First of all I'd like to say Hi to everyone again after my VR has been off the road for most of the year so far! I figured its about time that I get it back out on the road and start using it as I built it to do! I've gone to start it after it's been sitting for a good few months. I thought I isolated the battery but seemed I didn't! So after 2 days with the battery on charge at work, I bought it back and still wont fire. I'm getting a "00546 Data Wiring Faulty / 27-00 - Implausible Signal" fault. If I clear the codes sometimes it starts, then just randomly and instantly cuts out. I have to re

Seems like a good buy to me... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=230996655784

Yes I would say that the turbo is a little too small. Even still I would expect a bit more than that to be honest. I'm running standard ams too, half a bar less boost than you , standard management tuned by Stealth Racing and have a little more power?

I would say around the 400bhp mark and around 360ft lbs torque! I've got a very similar spec with a custom short runner, 8.5/1 comp, 3 inch exhaust, 4inch maf and filter, with a GT3582r, but with standard OBD1 management and Bosch 440cc injectors (at 4bar), at 14psi with 354bhp and 340ft lbs torque. Can you spill the beans now?