Jump to content

powernut

Members
  • Content Count

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by powernut

  1. tryed the ecu on my friends vr6t and it starts idiols fine 14.6/7 and steady 11.5 in boost , just noticed my alti is a 70amp. my freinds is 120amp , yet charges fine
  2. 2.8 vr6 turbo runing shit...e something not right just carnt work it out , heres things ive tryed, the engine will start with revs high and slowly come down to idiol which then has slight miss, and afr gauge will go learn then rich and engine will cut out , when trying to drive it ,it will intermitanty do a odd inlet back fire? things ive changed, coilpack,leads, plugs, clyinder head removed new valve guilds and re ground valves another maf, feul reg, crank sensor , 3 fusebox relay,crank sensor, timing removed and checked/algined,new exhaust/inlet gaskets, injectors, earth straps,complete en
  3. oppss posted wrong can a mod remove it please lol
  4. ive also have a holset hx35 fitted to my 2.8 vr6 hx35 t3 12cm 3inch straight out pipe great for low down spool , but a waste of time for traction in fwd vrs without lsd/4wd unless u like tyre smokeing, so i plan 2 options first use the stock hx35 but change the 12cm to a 14cm thn fit a hx40 with the 12cm over the weekend
  5. nice one paul if you still have the thermostat ill buy it of you , let me know , regards bonett vents , liked the stock looking bonett tbh , but ill try the rear bonett lift, regards pistons yearh there from anothe rengine ,hernce 21mm wrist pins
  6. cheers, problem is these have 21mm wrist pins and stock are 20mm , i can buy 21mm con rod bushers but unsure if its a safe option , as ive run 12/24v engines 2.8/r32 turbos in 4wd 20/28psi vrazy fun on a gt40 and hx40 holset turbos, but i seem to have more luck with the old 12v tbh, another couple of quickies engine temps so bloody hot under the bonnet fans are nearly always in , im thinking of fitting a lower 70deg thermostate and switch , but who sells them and oil coolers do a lot of your guys run them , depending what spec turbo and boost you run//as keeping intake temps down is dam hard
  7. hi all some probley know i used to r32 turbo 4wd caddy , now im runing a 12v 4wd caddy , which ive dropped on 2 sets of pistons as ive decided to rebore the block i have a set of 81.9mm/ 82.5mm and 82.9mm pistons which size is recomended over a stock 81mm bore
  8. fook me thats cool pal ,so that is a stock engine with 12psi with some type of turbo and intercooler ,,,just think if u had a head spacer and up it to a bar of boost lol frighting ,i reckon
  9. hio eat this ,u know ur 13.6 @103 320bhp/275lb was this ur time if so in what ,/
  10. right cheers i thought id not explained it very well ,ive orderd some new piston rings in the as the dam thing blue smokes when the engines warmed up cheers ,just hope it cures it
  11. THANKS GUYS I MEANT IF A MK3 2.8 VR6 CLYINDER WOULD FIT ON A MK4 VR6 DOHC ENGINE BLOCK,
  12. hi all ive a mint vr6 2.8 1992 head /dizzy type refurbed, thing is i want to know if i can fit this on to a dohc 2.8 mk4 vr6 block,any probs fitting,any less bhp ,are the mk4 2.8 block internals as strong as the aaa type blocks all info is welcome as ive blown my block ,
  13. ive got a mk3 golf obd1 all std except for the stainless exhaust,remap 17inch alloys, and it eats my mates obd2?which is decatted,18 alloys,36lb injectors ,4inch maf???just wait till hes mega squirted it and turbo occhh ,it shud pull then ...
  14. yearh ur right ,lucky it was jacked on a 2ton trolley jack and the other wheel wasnt fully on the ground ,or it would have ran into the wall ,,,then id have scraped it ,and fitted engine into some else....like rest of my homemade ideas ,cheers .
  15. hi yes i tryed to explain best i could in the first post ,basicly i replaced all front discs /pads calipars,and one wheel of the car is jacked off the floor (as i wanted to just remove surface from them) anyway as the engine is runing /car in gear ,with engine idioling,soon as i release the foot brake mms from lifting my foot off both wheels off the car lock up together and move ,its like theres no pinions in the diff,,as both wheels lock up and want to drive but soon as the foot brake is depressed the wheel drive works properly makeing only one wheel move until the peadle is pushed down then
  16. right guys ,the car is manual,yes if i press the brake peadle the car will stail ,while the car wheels are moveing ,soon as i let the brack peadle off both wheels want to move at the same time ?
  17. if the hot side exahust houseing was smaller id have tryed the buger
  18. my friend has a vr6 turbo obd2 thow and runing t4 turbo ,bigger injectors ,etc and said has he carnt see the point is flys too
  19. hi as my front brak discs were badly worped ,i fitted another std set of 288mm,discs calipars ,anyway, if i jack either wheel up(e.g o/s wheel) one wheel of the ground and press the foot brake the wheel stops as it shoud ,but soon as i let the foot off to realse the brake peadle the n/s wheel starts moveing ,like the diff is locking up to power both wheels at the same time?is this normal or is it the abs/causeing this ,as ive not come accross this before ,anyone know y/
  20. IVE DECIDED NOT TO USE IT ,AS EVERN THOW ITS NEW ,i dont think it will boost o a vr6 engine grr ,as its rather big lol
  21. thats really helped me a lot least gives me 90percent better idea what i roughtly need to do ,i striped all the head off and had to skimmed ,valve cut etc couple of pics here evern the dam water had rottern so replaced that oo any tryed a deisal turbo/reaso been ive a to4 ar60/think the exhaust houseings to big it says 1.00 t3 fitting
×
×
  • Create New...