FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Anybody heard of Arias Forged pistons or know anything about them?
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Don't buy EIP stuff. They're closing down apparently and they weren't much cop to begin with. I would stick to known brands that have been used a lot in VW circles, such as Mahle, JE, Wossner etc. -
All you've done is increase fuel flow 12%. The lambda will take all that out in closed loop conditions and in open loop, you're probably a shade too rich because a zorst and flter does not require 12% more fuel. A remap would give better results as you haven't touched the timing to do anything with the extra fuel.
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All sage advice. Turbo choice is always one of great debate, but if you choose poorly, you'll regret it, so think about the way you drive and how many oppurtunities you will get to spool up a big GT35/40R and evaluate your options. For me the GT30 fitted the bill, with a .82 hot side. It has both the bottom end shove aswell as enough top end shove to lose your license in seconds. A GT3582 with 0.63 AR gives similar results, but a few hundred rpm slower to spool. The BEGI worked fine for me up to 8psi with OBD2, but agreed, I wouldn't recommend it as a permanent solution. Standalone is goo
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Dealer
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The MK4 V6 already has a variable length manifold.
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Superchargers are indeed a lot easier, but if you plan on runnning more boost, you still need to make the same mechanical changes to the engine as you would a turbo. I think one or two outfits are in the process of a turbo kit for UK cars, otherwise Germany and the US do kits, but probably won't fit due to them being LHD. The important part is the exhaust manifold. Everything else is pretty much off the shelf , with just the boost pipe work, exhaust downpipe and intercooler stuff needing fabrication, but it's not that difficult tbh. You also need to pick the right turbo that suits your drivin
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4 engines is bad luck for sure! Been down a similar path myself, although it cost me only 1 engine - over doing it on the dyno too soon after the build. What I've learned over the years is to not cut corners. Buy a cheap part now, pay for it later. For me the turbo delivers the kind of torque curve I'm after. I use a small turbo, so it's not an all or nothing delivery. Been down the charger road and for me it didn't represent good value for money because the increase in power wasn't that impressive, but it was because of the Vortech unit used more than supercharging in general. The VR take
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In your opinion.....
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Same here. I find the cleanest way to accelerate from a stand still is to feed in the clutch and gas together....initially more clutch than gas and just as it bites, feed in more gas. It all depends where your torque band is and what traction is like. With a quaife it's good, but it can still be overwhelmed easily.
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I have Vibratechnics Competition front, fast road rear and competition gearbox. Vibration is OK, but lots of transmission whine. Doesn't bother me as it's only over run at slow speeds and sounds kind of cool with turbo noises....
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Yeah that's a good point made by RCF, I didn't read your spec list to notice the 6 branch. I've not heard of any other track VR6 S/Cs getting that prob though. The manifold does need wrapping tbh. OBD2 is the best VR6 ECU, so I'm surprised it's giving you grief. I'm sure there was someone else on here recently with a similar power cut issue and it was something to do with the MAF signal wire shorting out?! I thought he was you at first....very similar style of typing. I use Silkolene Pro S 10W/50 and it's a great oil, the VR6 seems to love it. Mocal works great too, as does Water Wette
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LOL, I'm keeping out of that :-) The V9 can do 20 'theoretical' psi on a bench, maybe even 25 with enough revs and it might just manage it on a 4 pot motor, but the VR6 is quite a large capacity to fill and I personally feel the V9 is too small for it.....hence why so many folk are having to spin the bajesus out of it to get any more than 12psi at the throttle.
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The V9 won't do 20psi without uprating the bearings and running a toothed drive..... they struggle making 15psi, let alone 20! What you need is a larger flow charger with less rpm, such as the V1.
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I can only see the ECU cutting power if the IATs get stupidly hot, say 90 degs or something. I think the OBD2 ECU only adjusts advance against air temp and Vince said the settings don't make sense, so he never touches it. Not sure what OBD1 gets up to when the motor gets hot under the collar, but Vince will know. Physics dictates that there is only one air temp compensation map for all petrol engines, and that is for every 10 degree increase in air temp, oxygen content reduces 3%, so you reduce the fuelling by 3% accordingly. In theory if you hit 90 deg intakes (which I have seen once or tw
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Phat VR6 - I don't think he has mate. Black Magic - Thanks, I appreciate the kind words :-) It's not had a final map mate, I'm doing that myself on the road. If and when it 'feels' right, I'll get it dynoed to confirm. I'm constantly changing things and have a good understanding of the DTA, so seems silly to pay someone £40 an hour to map it when I can do it myself. It won't be 100% spot on, but on the dyno you just can't tune some of the load sites like you can on the road, so all the low rpm stuff should be close, if not spot on. Full throttle stuff my wideband trims for me and timi
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VR turbos are fine cross country if you've got decent brakes and good suspension. A quaife LSD will help with traction, but on uneven country roads it can be a torque steering bar steward! It's good fun though. Still on my original gearbox mate! Boost is 11psi and that gives around 350-360hp. It's the torque that breaks gearboxes, not power, but that's well over 330lb/ft as well, so you do need a little mechanical sympathy! If the engine is built for 600hp and the turbo is big enough to provide enough CFM for 600hp, then yep, you can go up to 600hp very easily with a controller. The lower
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At your age you will also need a loan for the insurance if you turbo you car! It doesn't need to cost £10K. The way I've gone about it is expensive for sure, but you can do it a lot cheaper. You don't need a schimmel chargecooler, you don't need a GT turbo, you don't need forged pistons or increased capacity, you don't need a standalone etc etc. IBIVR has shown you can do it for around the £3K mark, perhaps less. It just depends on what you want from the conversion. For the cost of going N/A 3.0, big valve head etc etc it's not really worth it imo. Around 230hp is the most you'll get.
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If you tap it with oil in the sump, the flow of oil should flush any swarf out. I wouldn't worry about it, the pump will pick it up and dump it into the filter long before it gets anywhere near a cylinder wall or cam lobe.
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Unless you know how to setup diff preload, it's not something you want to be attempting yourself. If the conditions are right, turbo torque can destroy any gear, but 3rd usually bites it first. With sensible boost levels it shouldn't be a problem, just don't accelerate hard over bumps as it's the regaining of traction after a spin that usually busts your gear.
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anybody KNOW or actualy put a R32 or 4motion Sump on there12v vr6?
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
Nope. It just has a couple of fins in it to try and keep oil in the pick up area. TBH, the only time you're likely to get oil surging in a VR is on a track. I wouldn't worry about it too much. -
anybody KNOW or actualy put a R32 or 4motion Sump on there12v vr6?
FishWick replied to 6potmkII's topic in Engine Tuning
According to the Vincemeister - R32 is too much work to fit the 12V, but the 4 Motion one bolts straight on. I did have an R32 one and it was all nicely baffled internally, but it wouldn't bolt straight on. You need the dipstick and dipstick holder as it bolts to the filter housing on the 24V, rather than the inlet manifold. -
Exactly why I did it. To test the water before doing the big stuff! Haven't tried this method OBD1 but as said already, OBD2 is fine with it. Yep, C2 42lb maps have the lambda problem on part throttle boost. It's far from unrefined. Works a treat and engine smoother than it's ever been.
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Yes, the MSD conversion is most definitely a "Buyer Beware" modification!! OK, I've done nearly 4000 miles with the MSDs now (daily work transport plus leisure) and thought I'd offer a bit more feedback. I'm not really sure about this mod as a long term prospect. Over the weekend and on Monday I was getting some random misfires under load. So I've put the stock coil pack on and it's OK again, so I think one or more of the MSDs is on it's way out. I really don't understand why they blow. All they are is a long bit of wire crammed into a plastic case!! Maybe the "Made in China" logo underne
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Agreed /\ Works great with a turbo too....especially in 5th on the motorway :-)
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Yes, standard management, injectors etc etc You need an uprated fuel pump and a boost dependant Fuel Regulator. If you go over 8psi you'll need a recalibrated MAF table and / or larger housing (4") but it's not much work for someone to rejig a MAF table and send a chip out to try. It works on fuel pressure as opposed to flow, so you need to make sure your fuel lines can handle 100psi. Works perfectly and the cheapest way possible to get boost fuelling.
