FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Fine, what ever.
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I don't NEED to agree on anything. Proven by who? Whose done a back to back comparison of all the cams out there and posted up results?
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Hmmm, I wonder how much that TIG course is? :-) I was thinking of just buying a welder and practising joining loads of scrap metal together! Tig is best for aluminium and I hear it is stronger and neater when welding stainless too, so a tigger would be the best all rounder to have....but it's the hardest to get right and I have no idea where you get the gas from etc! That ebay kit shows a 4 cylinder manifold! You'd have to get a picture of the VR6 kit before parting with any dosh! Tubular manifolds can be great if made properly. The equal length runners will pulse the turbo a bit more effici
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1.71 Hot side? What turbo are we talking about? That would be monumentally slow to spool if T4 / 35R sized....
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What's it to be then? Low cost, or performance? You can't have both. CDA is the best filter bar none.
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Autotech's cams are cut by the same people who do Shcimmel's. Bill Schimmel's engines have made more with his own cams. It depends on a heck of a lot more than just the cams. So are you trying to say Autotech's are better for half the price then? You love your plugging don't you :-)
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Trust me mate, if I was a master tig welder, I wouldn't be wasting my money on cheap cast iron tat! It's definitely doable though, just takes a lot of time and practice to get right.
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Looks OKish to me. The only way they can sell a kit THAT cheap is to cut corners on the turbo and manifold. Manifold looks to be an ebay ATP clone special and the turbo only has a 90 day warranty, which kind of says it all really :-) Not trying to knock it without trying it, but that's just too cheap imo.
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Yeah they're great cams. Schimmel has 11 years experience in VRTs and came up with the 263 profile himself, so he must have tried others on the market and found them to be lacking in some areas.
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Same spray pattern, more flow. Saab turbos used them. 9000 2.0 16V T i think.
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You can also get 359cc red tops. Need the part number.
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Good in the dry. Comical in the wet :-)
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Mainly because the shell is stiffer mate. The rear turrets are tied together by the back rest of the seats. Golf's have nothing at all bracing the rear turrets and tend to flex more. Same with the Corrado. The Vento also has more rear over hang weight, which also helps :-) Seriously, if I was in the market for a MK4, I'd take the Bora over a Golf any day!
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I thought about it mate, especially as R23 engines are so cheap these days, but a FWD R32 turbo will just have no traction what so ever!!
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R32! Just following on from Phat's post!
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He fitted it himself, it's actually an easy job fitting it into the car if you use the standard VR6 mounts. Doing that does sit the sump a little low to the ground though. If you fit the MK4 shoulder mountes to the inner wings, it lifts it up a bit more. Mind you, with all that weight low slung, it improves the C of G quite a lot. You just have to be careful not to ground out the sump.
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And they bolt straight in. Even if retaining the factory ME7 management, a quick remap will give you 275-280hp. Food for thought. Out of their natural environment, they sound demonic, especially with a 6 branch and BMC filter. A cross between a ducati 996 and a nascar V8.
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Nothing wrong with Ventos. A better driver's car than the Golf, but shallow people don't see it that way. In the same way they don't care a Skoda Octavia is a Golf / Audi A3 underneath, they just won't buy one because of the badge. I hate the way the UK is becoming so superficial with cars. Turbo the Vento. I doubt you'd drive the R32 much after that. The R32 is quick off the line and that's about it. A turbo'd VR6 is in a completely different league in the mid range and top end.
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Should be fine. They appear to be from the same people make DSR, Dougherty Racing, Schimmel, Autotech etc etc's cams....
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Good luck. Let me know how it works out and can you post some pics up? I'd like to see what a proper SPA looks like in terms of port alignment etc. Cheers
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Why don't you just measure your own maf and get the correct answer?
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Before it goes anywhere near your engine, lay the exhaust gaskets over the flange and make sure it all lines up properly. Check the exhaust stud nut side of the flange and make sure it's machined flat. Well, check out the "I'm cracking up" thread and see for yourself how bad they can be. If it all looks good, you should be OK.
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Will - Yes you're right, my response was a bit strong, sorry. You're right, the wastegate was open in that picture. By barely in boost I meant low boost, 8psi in that instance. I'm surprised you and pops think that is a bad thing tbh. It happens all the time, even on OE cars. I've been out thrashing my missus's standard Polo GTI (1.8T) and come back and seen the manifold and turbine housing glowing cherry red. That's a standard car with just 8psi. It does have a very small manifold though. Less metal, more liable to glow. Ditto with the WG dump tube. Don't forget the wastegate pipe
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And just taking it a little further, please confirm the following to be true of your manifold:- 1) The gasket alignment is perfect, including the T3 and wastegate holes. All the gasket compression ridges are pressing down onto metal, and not into a misaligned hole where they won't seal. 2) The manifold flanges are machined flat so that the exhaust studs aren't pulled out of the head when torquing the nuts. 3) The SPA Turbo logo is on runner 1. If all that is true, then you have a different manifold, period.
