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Goodge123

Hp limit on stock parts

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I have searched various forums for my answers but like anything on the internet Im met with very different answers.

 

I'm planning on building a low cost reliable turbo 2.8 vr6 .

 

I want to no what hp limit items such as Sachs clutch, injectors , stock compression , rod and head bolts can take .

 

I want a reliable engine BUT I don't want to break the bank . The project it is for many of you will cringe . It's a Caddy van that's on air and on the floor so I'm not off to the ring any time soon .

 

Cheers

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Unfortunately there's no such thing as a low cost turbo build (apart from the build Jim Potter did on here turbo'ing for less than a grand).

 

You'll want a spacer plate at least to lower compression and ARP head bolts and rod bolts to prevent any head lift and stress on rods. 

 

I have a supercharged application running 294bhp but even that requires bigger injectors (330 cc) and updated fuel pump.

 

What is your budget ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On ‎09‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 5:15 PM, Goodge123 said:

 

I have searched various forums for my answers but like anything on the internet Im met with very different answers.

 

I'm planning on building a low cost reliable turbo 2.8 vr6 .

 

I want to no what hp limit items such as Sachs clutch, injectors , stock compression , rod and head bolts can take .

 

I want a reliable engine BUT I don't want to break the bank . The project it is for many of you will cringe . It's a Caddy van that's on air and on the floor so I'm not off to the ring any time soon .

 

Cheers

 

Low cost and reliable don't got together. If you want it reliable its gonna cost. I'm not saying its going to get expensive, but when you start you can't stop. You may want to do this or that, but then down the line you want to change things...? I like your idea with the Caddy, but if you don't want massive silly BHP? Then consider a Supercharger instead (I would say that mind as mine is)  Mine's running 275bhp and Pete's as stated above is near to 300bhp. As Pete says you're going to need spacer plate/head bolts at a minimum. What ever you decide you've got to get it right, for if you don't and it goes BANG, then it may well break the Bank... :huh: Horse power  wise though on stock internals is around 350bhp before you really need too start spending big monies... :o

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Indeed. Now there may well be a lot of knowledgeable people on here (more so than me) but my basic advice would be ring the specialist's in their field if you really want definitive answers? When I First considered Forced Induction I rang Vince at Stealth Racing 01926 812259 (Turbo charging) and Dan at TRD (Supercharging) and both where happy to talk to me and give their (actual) honest opinions and advice, which I thought was good of them considering that I wasn't going to use either company..

Worth a phone call. Then atleast you know which way you want to go and what's involved.....  :ph34r:

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When you talk about engine longevity you are talking about forces exerted on the engine; stress, twisting/shearing forces etc so first port of call is what causes it. 

 

I'm amazed by people that spend little time on the fuelling side of things, opting to "upgrade when I reach the limit's" or even rely on the ecu to make changes if needed. Detonation can cause pressures tens or even hundreds of times that of a controlled burn which inexorably lead to component failure, same with excessive heat if a tune's too aggressive and has little or no component protection in place (seen plenty of those).

So my first port of call is usually the fuelling - upgraded injectors and fuel pump then and make sure it's all nice and tight, no leaks anywhere, make sure regulators/lines and so on are up to the job too of course.

 

The other thing with engine longevity is the condition, I would always recommend either stripping and rebuilding the engine, even if it's just stock parts with a spacer, as the general wear and tear over an engine's life can mean extra stresses and strains on critical stress points like rods and crank. There's also the VR6 design and off-centre stresses as well as natural forces like gravity;

vr6

 

This is why I tend to mention the rod bolt's a lot, there's lot's of forces going on there so best to get it all tight and refreshed really.

 

The stock clutches tend to hold somewhere around 300-350lb/ft, different material will add greater durability. A Sachs SRE clutch are generally rated to around 450lb/ft - stages of other clutches I would surmise are in-between the 2, probably 10-20% more than stock. Above 450 you're looking at either a 4/6 paddle clutch which some can find grabby for daily driving, these tend to be rated around 500-550lb/ft or a multi plate expensive one which will give better driving characteristics but at a cost.

 

You needn't break the bank building a reliable VRT, most might just throw in a spacer and some ARP or go straight to forged this and that, you can negate any reliability issues somewhat taking care of the basics though!

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Cheers mate . At the very least the engine will be fully rebuilt with bearings and seals . Just currently sorting all the parts to build it back up.
I'll have a word with vince at stealth and see what he reckons on a turbo for low boost . He will have to map it at the end anyway

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