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How's it....

I've had my vr since 2006 and it's the car I've always wanted since their release drove my first one at 18, feel in love right away. That noise... yummy!!!

She hasn't been driven since about.... 5 or 6 years ?. I turn her over now and again and she start first turn every time.

 I am now 38 going on 28 and have decided not to buy a new golf R but instead plough the same money into my baby. I am still undecided between OEM resto or a balls out custom inside and out? Both will be bare metal refits.

Any Opinion is welcome.

Edited by Schrick AAA
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My opinion is that if its going to be driven frequently and you need practically then stick with OEM or OEM+ - They always seem to hold the money well, no matter what you spend you will never recover what you sunk into the car, but GOOD OEM examples appeal to more people should you wish to sell in the future.

 

Before you spend any money, check the underside, floor pans, struts etc... potential welding costs £££.

 

 

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Hi Pete,

Thanks for the post, question, what do you mean by OEM+? and I understand that I will never get all monies back if I go balls out.

I don't particularly need it to be practical It just needs to be FAST!!! I'm not going to put some ordacious mad arch body kit on it. Styling with finesse is the path I was thinking..

But I am thinking about controlled coil over airbag suspension though

 

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Soooo OEM+ stand for "Original Equipment Manufacturer +".
This term originally comes from the automotive world to describe the customization of a car in a subtle way, (mainly) using parts and accessories from the same manufacturer or the same group (Using Audi parts on a Volkswagen for example) . More generally it means customize a car very discreetly, with a close look to the original, playing on the details. In contrast of tuning and its extravagance.

_ Wow, never seen a VW Golf so clean! Does it come from the factory like this?

_ Well almost, it's OEM+. Just changed a few details to enhance the original look.

Hope that helps :-)

Sounds like you are on the right track.

If it's power you want then time to get boosting ?

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On 25 September 2016 at 11:20 PM, Schrick AAA said:

How's it....

I've had my vr since 2006 and it's the car I've always wanted since their release drove my first one at 18, feel in love right away. That noise... yummy!!!

She hasn't been driven since about.... 5 or 6 years ?. I turn her over now and again and she start first turn every time.

 I am now 38 going on 28 and have decided not to buy a new golf R but instead plough the same money into my baby. I am still undecided between OEM resto or a balls out custom inside and out? Both will be bare metal refits.

Any Opinion is welcome.

I know all about this in similar situ with various circumstances over the yrs just stick with it and follow what you want to do with it 

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Hi guys.. so keeping air as cold as possible through in intake is key to power right!!! But also the volume of air that the blower has access to??

Have you seen the new sabte engine on the skylon space plane?? ⤵I'm quite the tech head and think about designs and inventions. And I reckon I could retrofit the same principle even with the limited space we have to work with. 

images.jpg

My theory behind this is to keep efficiency of air transfer between the blower and cooler as high as possible. Or am I speaking shite!!! ?

Edited by Schrick AAA
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Hi guys.. so keeping air as cold as possible through in intake is key to power right!!! But also the volume of air that the blower has access to??

Have you seen the new sabte engine on the skylon space plane?? ⤵I'm quite the tech head and think about designs and inventions. And I reckon I could retrofit the same principle even with the limited space we have to work with. If you look on skylon' s website there's more info. I am in the process of drawing a schematic 

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Many things to consider when making a forced induction engines and air and fuel ratios. 

 

When it comes to the air side if things.....

Cool air is better yes. 

Denser air is better with more oxygen. 

More humid air is worse. (More water vapour) 

Piping, width and how it flows is also a factor. More bends and corners the more this restricts the air flow. 

The longer the piping the more drag. To wider pipe for to lower pressure will slow the air flow. 

 

Coolers...

front mounts, side mouns, air to water, they all cause quite a lot of drag.

Yes they cool the air, but also cause boost loss through drag. So a poorly set up cooler, usually incorrect size for the type of set up it's on, can cause mayor boost loss. Correctly set up they can achieve maximum cooling with minimum drag and boost loss. 

 

Keeping the inlet manifold cooler....

change to a 1.8t inlet temp sensor. These a plastic getting much less heat soak than the standard VR sensor. Also they are much more accurate at reading forced induction air. The sensor needs to be custom fitted. 

Short runner intake manifold. these flow quicker, and do not go over the cylinder head. So run cooler than a standard VR inlet manifold. 

If running a standard manifold could look at getting it ceramic coated or something to stop heat soak. Standard VR manifolds suffer from a lot of heat soak from the cylinder head underneath. 

(This is why the ODB2 engine has a plastic rocker cover, an the earlier OBD1 egngine has a metal one, VW were trying to cure or help some of the heat soak from the cylinder heat by running a plastic rocker cover transferring less heat. Same reason newer R32's have a plastic inlet manifold to help even more with heat soak) 

 

Same as inlet piping and exhaust, can be ceramic coated to stop heat soak and keep temps down.

heat wrapping for hot side of turbo. 

 

 

There's still more to consider about air and flow if you really want to get in to the nitty gritty and very technical. 

Plus there's even more to consider when it comes to engine set-up, and more again when it comes to ECU's, management and tuning. 

Edited by c00k
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