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matty.vrt

Matty's Golf mk4 R32 Turbo 4 motion

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Speaking of gearboxes, picked this up the other day.image.jpeg

It just happened to be the dirtiest gearbox on eBay. 

image.jpeg

This was the result of a quick clean with the jet wash and some de-gunk. The plan is to split it and have it media blasted and powder coated.

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13 hours ago, matty.vrt said:

Speaking of gearboxes, picked this up the other day.image.jpeg

It just happened to be the dirtiest gearbox on eBay. 

image.jpeg

This was the result of a quick clean with the jet wash and some de-gunk. The plan is to split it and have it media blasted and powder coated.

DRP?

got one for my haldex conversion, going to get uprated OEM shift forks 1-2,3-4 have the  shaft filled solid and welded and the 4th gear support. Mart (Hotgolf) from the GTi forums will be building it for me. 

Been looking at these for the diff, well known by ricer crew and Beamer boys

http://www.grinspeed.co.uk/product/volkswagen-golf-r32-mk4mk5-02-08-02m-6mt-front-mfactory-helical-lsd/

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Yeh it's a DRP.

 

Sounds like your on the right track, what sort of power are you aiming for?

 

I'm going to have a go at building it myself so wish me luck lol.

 

Never herd of them LSD's what sort of power do people put through them? I think I'm going to be sticking with the tried and tested Pelequins or Quafe, I know people putting over 1200bhp through them for years without issue.

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Monster spec! You'll have to keep it stock looking and take it out on the road to embarrass some supercars!

 

I think these guys do all the big hp box work over in Germany, some of the 8 second lot reference them; https://www.facebook.com/doc.drehmoment.official 5/6th gear supports and billet shafts etc seem to crop up now and again and on the German forums.

 

Have you got or are getting a harmonic damper too? 

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45 minutes ago, RBPE said:

Monster spec! You'll have to keep it stock looking and take it out on the road to embarrass some supercars!

 

I think these guys do all the big hp box work over in Germany, some of the 8 second lot reference them; https://www.facebook.com/doc.drehmoment.official 5/6th gear supports and billet shafts etc seem to crop up now and again and on the German forums.

 

Have you got or are getting a harmonic damper too? 

Thanks,

 

I will have to check them out. I know lots are using Don Octane (veuros, 0-400, Monster, Boba, Donkey & Xparts) but its always good to explore all options especially when building on a budget.

 

Yes, I have fluid dampir to keep the harmonic's under control.

 

Edited by matty.vrt

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Guest Hubbell

awesome job but the better coils to use are the gm coils as they do produce better spark and the R8 ones really dont. also, the place where you have the EBC solenoid tapped is not ideal, best to be right before the TB for a true boost signal. when you have it where you have it, you are not accounting for pressure drop after the IC. still awesome build!

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2 minutes ago, Guest Hubbell said:

awesome job but the better coils to use are the gm coils as they do produce better spark and the R8 ones really dont. also, the place where you have the EBC solenoid tapped is not ideal, best to be right before the TB for a true boost signal. when you have it where you have it, you are not accounting for pressure drop after the IC. still awesome build!

Hi, thanks for the kind words.

 

The NGK R8 coils should work fine for my application, but if I run into issues I will be sure to try the gm coils.

 

The boost solenoid is not reading boost it is just using the pressure from the turbo to assist the spring pressure to increase the boost level.

 

I'm using a 5bar map sensor located in the intake manifold to read the boost, so all losses will be accounted for.

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On 29 May 2016 at 0:31 PM, matty.vrt said:

Yeh it's a DRP.

 

Sounds like your on the right track, what sort of power are you aiming for?

 

I'm going to have a go at building it myself so wish me luck lol.

 

Never herd of them LSD's what sort of power do people put through them? I think I'm going to be sticking with the tried and tested Pelequins or Quafe, I know people putting over 1200bhp through them for years without issue.

Hi not huge power, was running standalone with 3 maps currently 260-280-340, the 340 destroyed a quaife 6 speed box! When it's haldex'd I'm looking for 450,550 and 650, Scirroco.com is the best for peloquin as he has direct contact with Gary (mr peloquin) the ricer boys and BM (BuM lovers?) really rate the m factory stuff and they are trying to break the VW market. http://www.grinspeed.co.uk/product-category/volkswagen/ seem to be the UK distributors and I believe the prices quoted are inc of vat as when you go to cart all they add is 9.99 postage, if that's right then it's 100 quid for bolt kit and away you go. 

After speaking to Mart, the 02m is an arse to work on, blind bearings etc? No idea what they are but if a pro has issues with them.... Also the bearing rebuild kit is £300, would you want to fuck about with an essential bit of kit?

ive had to buy a 02C from Germany to get me by (£500) till next year, but I am still going to have diff bolts changed and also 2nd,3rd and 4th shot peened for strength. This makes the temp box well over a grand and possibly overkill but after speaking to Tim at the phirm he said straight swap and run low boost (never going to happen!) so I want the best of what I have. I am now used to the idea of money no object on these bloody cars! But it's great when a cayenne driver won't look at you after slaughtering him on a straight. Really interested in how your going to go, so please keep posting!

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41 minutes ago, ssaunders said:

Hi not huge power, was running standalone with 3 maps currently 260-280-340, the 340 destroyed a quaife 6 speed box! When it's haldex'd I'm looking for 450,550 and 650, Scirroco.com is the best for peloquin as he has direct contact with Gary (mr peloquin) the ricer boys and BM (BuM lovers?) really rate the m factory stuff and they are trying to break the VW market. http://www.grinspeed.co.uk/product-category/volkswagen/ seem to be the UK distributors and I believe the prices quoted are inc of vat as when you go to cart all they add is 9.99 postage, if that's right then it's 100 quid for bolt kit and away you go. 

After speaking to Mart, the 02m is an arse to work on, blind bearings etc? No idea what they are but if a pro has issues with them.... Also the bearing rebuild kit is £300, would you want to fuck about with an essential bit of kit?

ive had to buy a 02C from Germany to get me by (£500) till next year, but I am still going to have diff bolts changed and also 2nd,3rd and 4th shot peened for strength. This makes the temp box well over a grand and possibly overkill but after speaking to Tim at the phirm he said straight swap and run low boost (never going to happen!) so I want the best of what I have. I am now used to the idea of money no object on these bloody cars! But it's great when a cayenne driver won't look at you after slaughtering him on a straight. Really interested in how your going to go, so please keep posting!

I like to mess with all the essential bits lol.

 

Did I mention I'm going to wire it all up and map it myself? Lol.

 

Why pay someone else to have all the fun.😀

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This came in the post today.

image.jpeg

3.5" inlet/outlet should flow enough. Originally planned to go with an air/air intercooler but changed my mind at the last minute, even bought a 1800cfm core.

 

I know lots of people are sceptical over chargecoolers but after lots of research I thought F**k it I will give it a go, guess curiosity got the better of me.

 

The core it's self is a cheap item off eBay with cast end tanks. If it proves it can keep the inlet temps and low I will consider upgrading it for a Precision PT2000 with sheet metal end tanks in the future.

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2 minutes ago, matty.vrt said:

I like to mess with all the essential bits lol.

 

Did I mention I'm going to wire it all up and map it myself? Lol.

 

Why pay someone else to have all the fun.😀

Ultimate respect if you do. I work in IT and am not a numpty but 3D fuelling and timing maps was like a dark art, I happily played but until a pro did it with more sensors than you can shake a stick at (EGT, knock sensors, pre and post lambda) a 4x4 rolling road and quiet a few years experience did it run properly. You have spent a lot of time and money getting the mechanicals perfect, but it will be  ruined if you run too lean on full boost for a second or 2! 

Yours is a beast on paper, even a base tune by someone who knows what they are doing would work wonders. 

What are you doing about wideband? My emerald has a self tuning option but I would not trust it to fuel correctly on full boost, ever!

if you read up on tuning a lot say you can run lean at cruising speeds, 14.7 stoich even 15.1-2 I asked my bloke and he laughed, it really is down to setup but even an initial pro setup imho is worth the money

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Here is Marts pricing for a 02m, he has done 2 flywheels for me now and is a legend on clubgti

Labour starts at £175(diff fitting)  upto £295 for a full rebuild. Bearing replacement and preloading is a nightmare on these boxes as it's fully enclosed with blindhole bearings. I've done quite a few and so far have got away without replacing a lot of bearings.
 
On top of this:
synchro rings average out at £30 each
Bearings vary from £20 up, a full kit being £300!
Needle bearings £75
Seal kits are £20
Fork modifiaction £40pr or
upgrade forks are around £65 each for the 1-2ndand 3rd-4th
Modified 5th-6th £25
Modified solid input shaft insert £90
Darkisde Input shaft support and fitting £175
Darkside bronze slippers £20 a set(requires 2 sets)

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9 hours ago, ssaunders said:

Ultimate respect if you do. I work in IT and am not a numpty but 3D fuelling and timing maps was like a dark art, I happily played but until a pro did it with more sensors than you can shake a stick at (EGT, knock sensors, pre and post lambda) a 4x4 rolling road and quiet a few years experience did it run properly. You have spent a lot of time and money getting the mechanicals perfect, but it will be  ruined if you run too lean on full boost for a second or 2! 

Yours is a beast on paper, even a base tune by someone who knows what they are doing would work wonders. 

What are you doing about wideband? My emerald has a self tuning option but I would not trust it to fuel correctly on full boost, ever!

if you read up on tuning a lot say you can run lean at cruising speeds, 14.7 stoich even 15.1-2 I asked my bloke and he laughed, it really is down to setup but even an initial pro setup imho is worth the money

I know what you are saying and your right.

 

I will map it my self to a certain point then I will get it fine tuned by a guy I know and trust.

 

I'm using Haltech's CAN based wideband setup. The feedback is much quicker than a conventional analog setup.

 

I just don't want to fall into this tuning cliche that keeps repeating itself. "You must find a tuner then get whatever ecu he is comfortable with" err, no thanks it's my car! Then there is the notion that it is some black art. I'm not having it. 

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6 minutes ago, al_mooring said:

Amazing build so far.

Doing it right and doing it once is always the best way!

Thanks,

 

You are correct! Many lessons learned over years, my first build was full of silicone/Tbolt clamps and zip ties. Haha

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On 6/3/2016 at 11:47 PM, ssaunders said:

Here is Marts pricing for a 02m, he has done 2 flywheels for me now and is a legend on clubgti

Labour starts at £175(diff fitting)  upto £295 for a full rebuild. Bearing replacement and preloading is a nightmare on these boxes as it's fully enclosed with blindhole bearings. I've done quite a few and so far have got away without replacing a lot of bearings.
 
On top of this:
synchro rings average out at £30 each
Bearings vary from £20 up, a full kit being £300!
Needle bearings £75
Seal kits are £20
Fork modifiaction £40pr or
upgrade forks are around £65 each for the 1-2ndand 3rd-4th
Modified 5th-6th £25
Modified solid input shaft insert £90
Darkisde Input shaft support and fitting £175
Darkside bronze slippers £20 a set(requires 2 sets)

Thanks for the info.

 

Things can get expensive real quick with cars. Just a case of collecting the parts one piece at a time and being patient.

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Fitted these bad boys last night.

IMG_2231.JPGIMG_2235.JPG

 

They don't look like much but they are AP Racing CP5066 calipers with titanium pistons and 378mm x 32mm floating discs (not bells like most floating setups about). I have been speaking to the guys at AP and these are off a Audi Touring Car!

 

The pads are nothing like I have ever seen before;

IMG_2070 (1).JPG

They came with Ferodo DS3000 race pads which was a bonus. After fitting these I have founds they are really street-able, no squealing which was a concern I had as the car is currently my daily driver.

IMG_2239.JPG

Tight squeeze under my 18's I'm glad I picked Pro Race 1.2's for their clearance.

 

The plan is to run them for now and make them look pretty later. I went on a quick test drive to check for noises etc.. and my initial thoughts are WOW!!!! WTF these things are awesome, I have had big brakes before but these are on another level. Even the way the car drives has improved, the steering feels better.

 

One thing I forgot to do was weigh the old setup and compare against the new but it is safe to say these are significantly lighter. I have done a bit of research online and the standard 288mm setup should weigh around 18kg per side (please feel free to correct me if you have weighed the standard setup), The new setup from what I can make out on AP's website should be around 11kg so they are saving a massive 7kg of un-sprung weight per side.

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9 minutes ago, VR6CABBS said:

Got a thing for big brakes at the minute and they look awesome mate. What you gonna do with the rears?

Not sure yet, either upgrade to 310mm discs with a caliper spacer or might go all out on a custom 330mm AP 4pot setup with brembo hand brake caliper to keep it MOT able.

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