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Turbo Build


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Wouldn't really make a difference in "strength" per se, maybe ratio at torque level v's rpm. If you want longevity, I would literally think of it this way; 1. "Is my gearbox in good condition?" -

Time to start taking out the engine After a few days i finally got the engine out

Right, been busy recently as I have finally gotten a job and time for an update on the build, I have just bought Ky's 3.0 Litre block with forged pistons , turbo manifold and ht leads, Ive ordered a s

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Right so finally got my engine back so now for some building , seeing as all the bolts and bits for the engine are in bags and half of them aren't labelled this is going to be fun lol
Got a few bits on like the oil filter housing , rear mount , crank sensor and started with the oil cooler but need to buy the UM external oil cooler pipe to in both OEM oil cooler and my Mocal external oil cooler
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Right I need a bit of advice , I've timed the bottom half of the engine as the head is not ready , piston 1 is at tdc and the ground tooth opposite the main cap split , but I couldn't seem to get the intermediate shady sprocket bang on , it's about 1mm right of the guide mark behind the sprocket is that anything to worry about or do I have to re do it ?

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Getting a little bit further with the build , got my head back from the machine shop with 1.8mm bigger inconel exhaust valves and supertech intake valves with new guides , stem seals , HD Valve springs and titanium retainers, also got the head skimmed , hot tanked and pressure tested.
Put the mk4 MLS headgasket with the ARP head studs on and the SRI on IMG_2158.thumb.JPG.e09b5c12a438e292ceb9c

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I bought a Walbro 400 inline fuel pump and decided to have a crack at fitting it in place of the standard pump , the only thing is I can only get it to a certain point and the pump won't go further down , any advice on if this will be ok or do I need to find a way to get it to come down more ?
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