Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Finished sanding back the bed liner and sprayed all the engine bay in two coats of high build primer, a little more sanding and one more coat it should be ready for colour

After a lot more sanding and primer I thought it was time for some colour so after running out of thinners and my gun packing up (which is now fixed) I managed to shoot a coat of colour onto the bay,

I have bought a clutchmasters fx750 clutch And I've got a 6spd o2m with a diff and 2wd blanking plate, already rewelded the mk3 vr subframe for the gearbox mount relocation and got a dutchbuild mount

Posted Images

So after fitting my be front brakes I realised 15's weren't going to clear at all so swapped the gottis for some 16" schmidts which I have now split down. Fronts were 8's and rears are 8.5's so rebuilding the 8.5's and buying 3.5" lips for the 8's. Got some gold spike bolts and flat caps coming for them too.

53d6bb205361aa9527fd47e92931fc25.jpg

e2b2c1b8ab7c8ddc8ab5b746add1f27e.jpg

91f652f9f1d23b134cf497d1b736f6ba.jpg

And after a good polish up with meguiars all metal polish:

caee2e5a34c65538e7e2e622a11e6e36.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

Well it's been a while since I last posted, mainly due to saving up again to buy more parts.

The schmidts were sold and some 16" BBS RS faces, waffles, nuts, bolts, centre caps and hex's were bought, they are 5x114.3 so will need plugging and redrilling to 4x100.

d504bd7f8ef6b559f336a579804facaf.jpg

I then tested them on the wilwood 6 pots

262a3fed5eccc26e4e92af18c4fcdfec.jpg

fcbb9b9645ee5c9e75fc6eb43fe0ee52.jpg

Since last time I also bought my PnP lugtronic management and 830cc injectors

c1e939ee1dfea2f97314a3a8583836c2.jpg

Then I have slowly been buying parts to finish the engine and gearbox so that includes a TT 2mm oversized valve kit, new lifters and I'm looking at DRC 268 cams.

I then found on Facebook a kamei bonnet scoop and hella spoiler going cheap so jumped on them and found Julien, a guy in France making fibreglass wide arches which will enable me to run 10j all round with low offsets and meaty tyres

4ed5c85b325bfdc55c09845af05063e7.jpg

24428079b632f239a2f0e0779902bc79.jpg

Also bought an OBP pedal box so I need to weld up the master cylinder and clutch master holes in the firewall.

Can't think of anything else but more proper progress shots coming soon!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those 6 pots are going to look amazing behind those wheels!

Just fit as well :)

Keep up the good work buddy.

Make sure to sand the mounting surfaces on the alternator, and alternator bracket back to bare metal.

Otherwise you might get a few grounding issues dude.

I wish I had read this before starting work on the car today but never mind I can strip the alternator and bracket back down next time I'm working on the engine, I'm not an electrician so never gave it a thought haha

Started building the engine up again today, got the oil pump bolted up and sump on and then built up the crank and flywheel ends of the engine.

I then finished off with the accessory bracket and water pump.

fe7383a0a65889ecd8401e48a7125f7b.jpg

37ae669db06dce12533ab6842e4dd857.jpg

f019652afff196e3b15035c2ed1e6905.jpg

12296ffe30e72a94a705d6f43af8d0b0.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I didn't get any pictures but my cylinder head is away at the machine shop getting the new seats and big valve head kit installed, they have also taken the 02m diff to drill the rivets out the crown wheel and also reinforce the shift forks.

I have ordered a wavetrac diff with ARP hardware from my good friend Matt at onlychargeddubs so will get pictures on the rebuild.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Last few days I had been thinking long and hard over the engine bay and whether I had done the best job I could of done and the answer was no lol

So with that I have decided to flat back the bed liner and spray it properly with the new car colour, but since I was starting to put a lot of effort back into the engine bay things spiralled and so I have now been welding up all the holes on the firewall including the heater box, brake servo etc

69eaa08f556ffd91fd26b906a1c5c163.jpg

cc64d32d0640cfb01362f623c505fa0e.jpg

2e69067fc2b9e4c5d18ca9278b850a58.jpg

d79ab7a7afc73b0563ec647723a141e6.jpg

Progress is slow but I feel as if the engine bay deserves some colour and I will feel better every time I open the bonnet :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the bay grinded down and first lot of filler laid down, sanded and quickly etch primed so I can see what else needs doing, been a productive few days but a long way to go yet

bf625b523cb7fd7e0844a7fca0ccd392.jpg

Came home to find these though

abf5547b856ee53e42ac84c029de043b.jpg

b2fbed2596e47a7a48061e48474e58a4.jpg

eb9639c79c7aedb52f81c70cff28100a.jpg

Schimmel oil filter housing so I only get clean oil to the turbo and can use spin on filters along with their short runner ht leads

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Bit of a late update but I have taken the plunge and I'm going to be fitting a complete haldex conversion into the car.

I have bought the complete running gear out of an Audi s3 and will hopefully be collecting a shortened haldex rear cradle which is fully polybushed and the correct width for a mk2

0802231515776fde96f80a2c25438bd3.jpg

Also sprayed the bay in a coat of high build primer ready to work on it again on Wednesday.

b895af018a693aee80944548f99e0e30.jpg

8d9f4a51fd59d2d0e05a084ecce2a989.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

After a lot more sanding and primer I thought it was time for some colour so after running out of thinners and my gun packing up (which is now fixed) I managed to shoot a coat of colour onto the bay, still more standing to do after this but getting a lot closer

7cdc4b07412391c76cf9d4ef7e8377ae.jpg

Also bought a FSM code 02m which is out of an Ibiza pd130 which I'll be using the final drives along with my DRP case and gear set

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oil filter fits in place of original,

You remove old filter and casing and fit new schimmel cnc version.

Direct swap.

The holes on the top are even to fit standard sensors, plus an extra one for turbo or super charger oil feed if I remember right.

Edited by c00k
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Oil filter fits in place of original,

You remove old filter and casing and fit new schimmel cnc version.

Direct swap.

The holes on the top are even to fit standard sensors, plus an extra one for turbo or super charger oil feed if I remember right.

Yeh you got it mate, and also the schimmel one provides clean oil from the housing whereas the standard housing doesn't (if that even makes a difference) haha

Not had an update for a while, I finished the engine bay but wasn't happy with the results so it's off to the bodyshop beginning of August for everything to be finished.

27a7a5dbbe6988b744d179c79a1f328f.jpg

Since the last update I have a larger gearbox tunnel ready to weld in ready for the prop shaft

5d7c202ab3802bdb2f389205456ea1be.jpg

And I have stripped the interior completely and started welding the mounts to the body for the rear haldex cradle

e733d64ad8a3bab4464400bf0b375a91.jpg

7fd947b0a41d73e6eb650d08d6841da9.jpg

6cc372d8407fc206e655445b410ff09a.jpg

Just have the rear box section to weld in for the rear mount of the cradle before it goes to the bodyshop.

The problem I'm having though is that the top control arm is hitting the body/chassis before the hub is anywhere up in the arch so I'm going to make some curved/bent top control arms so the wheel can come further up into the arch.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Z-ing control arms I think they call it buddy.

Yanks use them on loads of the trucks and pickups when fitting air ride.

I think it came from old low riders running hydraulics but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Effectively for the same thing to get the wheel higher in arch.

Amazing build thou dude.

Comming along very nicely.

I'd love to do 4 wheel drive one day!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Z-ing control arms I think they call it buddy.

Yanks use them on loads of the trucks and pickups when fitting air ride.

I think it came from old low riders running hydraulics but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Effectively for the same thing to get the wheel higher in arch.

Amazing build thou dude.

Comming along very nicely.

I'd love to do 4 wheel drive one day!

Thanks for the info mate I was going to buy the parts separately and make my own but I'll look into them cheers!

Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...