Golf Mk3 VR6 on Air - Supercharger.

[c00k 435]

Removed all bungs from floor pan an underside. ground back the under seal around all the bungs to fresh metal, ground back any other suspects areas where the underseal was starting to crack, found few surface rust areas. Ground back to fresh metal and treated with chemical rust prevention. 2 of the smaller bung holes near the sill needed welding.

So I made some plates and welded them in.

Both front sills got repaired and welded just after purchasing the car. And still holding up really well.

Other than that floor pan looks all good,

Previously checked the inside, when I had the seats out re-dying them awhile ago. Then re-coated the whole underneather and arches with waxonal.

Didn't get any photos, as I only had my phone for photos, as I've misplaced my charger for normal camera again, and didn't want to get paint and crap off my hands on my new phone.

Also removed the underseal and paint from the very bottom of the front arches to check, all seemed good. So first applied some chemical rust prevention, then re-painted and re -under sealed. There hidden by the side skirts anyway.

New front struts / dampers on order, should be here next week. I'm going to make some extra low front shafts to mount my bags on too

New pulley for charger arrived will put up some photos and update on charger later.

Edited April 8, 2015 by c00k

[c00k 435]

Photo of my new bungs and new head shield fasteners, got loads more bungs, but couldn't be arsed to line them all up for photo, lol

 

New front struts / dampers arrived , I'm making some extra low front shafts to mount my bags on to

 

 

 

I'm only using the front pair. so rear pair are for sale, brand new in the box if anyone want them.

The mounts on the bottom are removable and adjustable.

 

Tiny bit of customizing, then got them in to zinc primer, then in the polyurethane top coat.

 

Shafts with mounts ready set up for air bags, bronze colour is copper grease.

 

All built back up ready to fit.

 

 

 

Lower arm re-fitted, suspension should be on tomorrow evening.

 

 

 

 

 

Super charger small pulley removal,

Put some soaking wet rags around the housing, to stop the paint getting damaged, and keep the main housing cooler.

Made a quick heat shield. drained the oil previously.

 

Heated the pulley up with a blow torch to made it expand, and prised it off genteelly, re-heating afew times.

 

New custom pulley next to old original pulley.

Edited April 21, 2015 by c00k

[c00k 435]

Haven't found time to do an update in awhile,

been flat out working on the car in my spare time,

kinda why there been no update, as I've been to busy doing stuff to it.

Finished heat wrapping my exhaust, I did the down pipe ages ago,

but never did the headers, as previously i did it while the whole engine was built up.

So got round to heat wrapping the headers.

I also heat wrapped the under side or my inlet manifold,

With this special ceramic heat shielding.

It's called Zircotec. I went for ZircoFlex 3.

This is there website on the stuff:

http://www.zircotec.com/page/--zircoflex-iii/150

Think i will also be ordering some to go under the exhaust heat shield.

Not the cheapest, if you go for there highest rated stuff,

But works really well. It's meant to block up to 85% of the heat.

As I went for the highest rating, ZircoFlex 3.

[c00k 435]

Back to the suspension and how the car sat.....

after getting the customised lower arms, ball joints, and new custom suspension back on, and testing how low the car sat.

I still wasn't happy, the car still needed to sit a tiny bit lower, maybe more if possible.

but the lower arms still bound on the subframe too early for my liking, and i wanted it sat lower!

So there was only two routes I could take, as I've already done alot to make it sit lower.

1. ball joint raiser, or 2. raised turrets.

Normal ball joint raisers / extensions don't fit and work with VR6 ball joints, meaning i would of had to of swapped to an early spec GTi hub set-up,

using the clamp style ball joint. (also ball joint raisers should never be run with out a tie-rod flip to as well, to correct the geometry)

Or chop my painted engine bay to raise the turret. :s (I may still do this in the future, before i re-paint it)

So I came up with another idea..

they make stuff like them for Mk5's I think.

But it's more of a ball joint spacer, than an extender.

Main thing is it doesn't change the pivot point like normal ball joint raisers. So there's no need to run a tie rod flip kit.

But it also wouldn't stop bump steer. So for most static cars they wouldn't be much use either.

But for me, I just want to stop my lower arms from binding on the subframe as early, when I air out. I won't be driving that low.

So I took some measurement, and made up a few plates to use as spacers.

I'll let the pictures do the explaining.

High tensile 12.9 grade M8 bolts used. Still needed chopping down to right size, this was just a mock up.

Zinc coated, then polyurethane top coat, same as lower arms and subframe.

[c00k 435]

Back on car.

Got it all built back up, and sitting how I wanted Pics to come soon

While I had the inlet manifold off, I opened up and re-shaped the inside of the neck near the throttle body.

I then drilled out and fitted a 1.8T temp sensor. As there meant to not get heat soak, and also work much better with forced induction.

I also drilled out and changed the vacuum fitting. but didn't get pic after finishing the vacuum fitting.

Before re-fitting it on car, removed the sensors, an gave it a good very good hot wash, degrease, light acid wash, neutralise wash, then clean hot wash again. to remove any swarf of metal, plus any grim or crap that built up on the inside over years,

Then dried and blow through with loads of compressed air.

Ordered my self some light weight pulleys

Crank, water pump and alternator, next to old pulleys.

Got them fitted straight on to the car.

Can also see my tensioner, as the supercharger mounts to where the original standard tensioner would go.

Got the inlet manifold,supercharger with new custom pulley, belts, and everything back on and built up.

Gave it a little test run with the new light weight pulleys, and mainly smaller super charger pulley and it seems all good. should of got a little video.

i will soon.

It's got booooost!!!

Edited May 25, 2015 by c00k

[pappers 50]

Very tidy...nice work.

[Mk3highline 287]

Wow your doing a great job mate

When you have finished yours you can start work on mine lol

[Rikki 2]

Great read. Have sent you a pm about a pulley

[c00k 435]

Cheers guys

It's getting there,

Still needs new paint in my eyes , but that won't be for some time yet.

I want to enjoy the summer of boosting it around.

[Russvrt 85]

Boost

[c00k 435]

New special heat resistant inlet gasket

New OEM rocker gasket, and some back anodised bolt.

More heat shielding and more black anodised bolts.

Boost guage piping and fittings.

Made some spacer plates for the super charger,

They help with belt alignment, as I made a few in different thickness to perfectly align.

One is meant to come with the kit, but mine was missing... I was using some thick washers previously, so not ideal. These will be much better

Fitted them on the car, and fitted some M8 high tensile studs, (same as exhaught studs.) which made it much easier to get the supercharger in to position, rather than holding it in place and pushing a bolt through while trying to line up the hole.

Final spacing was 9mm, with a 6ribbed engine belt. And the belt was aligned nicely on my setup

Edited June 1, 2015 by c00k

[Bealieboy 1,625]

Pukka cook, there's the info I was after.

I've just got to find a local metal firm to make me one!

[boab3 164]

Nice nice work. Did you replace the internal bearings on the charger?

[c00k 435]

No I haven't replace the internal main shaft bearings yet,

I'm looking to get some upgraded versions to be able to run a higher amount of boost. But haven't found the ones i'm after yet, still more re-search needed.

[c00k 435]

As I've replace most of the bolts in the engine bay with 12.9 high tensile allen key bolts.

I bought a load of metal cover heads to go on them.

Did every Allen key bolt in the engine bay,

But won't bore you with photos of them all.

So here's one area I did.

Half complete.

Fully complete.

Bought a 4bar fuel regulator,

Gave it a quick polish before fitting it.

Then got it fitted on car.

Fitted new fuel filter at same time.

Also did an oil change.

Used some decent oil flush first,

Ran it for about 45-50mins,

Dropped old oil,

Then fitted cheap new filter,

Filled with 10-40 diesel oil,

Let it run for about an hour and half,

Plus took it for little drive,

Dropped the diesel oil,

Removed cheap filter,

Fitted new OEM filter,

Fitted new OEM sump plug with copper wash.

Filled with 10-40 Magnatec.

Hopefully do the internals some good.

Edited June 22, 2015 by c00k

[Bealieboy 1,625]

Keep us posted on those dibed top mounts please cook, I read somewhere they eat steering racks, have you heard anything like that?

(Still could do with that z engineering chat too)

[c00k 435]

If set up incorrectly yes I believe they can mess up steering racks. As the castor angle would be out, causing extra stress on the steering rack, making it twist.

I fitted a set to my mates mk2 golf, almost 3 years ago, when they first came out . and there still working fine. That's got a VR supercharged in it.

I've had mine on there for about 5-6 months now and think they work well.

I set mine and ones I've fitted for mates up with a camber and castor gauge. And none have huge camber, mines is -0.5.

Give me a buzz buddy one evening for chat, any time after 6.30-7ish.

Edited June 23, 2015 by c00k

[c00k 435]

The front solid engine mount is coming out, and getting replaced with a poly version.

Heard people say before there no good for road use, and I now agree, after a few months of use.

There much to harsh lol

Edited June 28, 2015 by c00k

[c00k 435]

I've fitted the poly version, and it's much better.

Plus I managed to get it in red

same as the the rest of my polybushes.

I'm using a the solid lower section under the cross member, and upper poly mount.

The fully solid front mount was almost un-drivable.

Tiniest bump or raised tarmac from shit repair job, felt like you just drove over a large speed bump at 30-40 lol

I think it would be good for track use, as it makes the front end very tight. But not good for road use.

They do sell them as track mounts, but I bought it thinking, 'it can't be that bad'. How wrong I was lol.

I have vibra-tech gear box, and rear mount, they work really well.

But I have the road versions, not the competition/track version.

Also changed to a 7 ribbed belt, as I had a 6 ribbed previously, only because I couldn't find a 7 ribbed at the correct length.

But now I have. so also got that fitted,

It's also running slight lumpy on warm up, when warm it's fine.

After doing abit of data logging using the measuring blocks with vag-com.

I put this down to pre-detonation from the spark plugs,

I ordered some new spark plugs, they only have one ground prong, instead of two like the normal VR.

and I'm going to gap them down which should give me a much better spark for forced induction. they're also one stage cooler than standard, as I'm running normal compression, with forced induction.

I do plan to fit a de-compression plate in the near future. but not until I have new uprated cams, and uprated valve springs to fit at same time. Most probs do new steam seals just to be on safe side. as I only want to pull the head off once.

Also ordered some new Bosch injectors, 346cc @ 3bar, 391cc @ 4bar, should be more that up to the job.

Edited July 27, 2015 by c00k

[dubspy 19]

top work mate.. 

[c00k 435]

Few shots of the engine,

New Bosch EV6 injectors, 391cc @ 4bar.

And new spark plugs,

Got them fitted straight away,

May change the plugs again soon, and see which the engine runs better with.

ECU has been sent off to Stealth Racing for a custom map. After speaking with Vince I'm happy I'm sending it to the right place. The guy really knows his stuff.

He even changed my mind on running a recirc valve, so I've ordered all the stuff to get that fitted.

And will be changing some of the pipe work.

ECU should be back by Friday!

[boab3 164]

That charger fits in there nicely.have you much clearance between the inner wing?what plugs are you going to run? Just im rebuilding my zr2 up to squeeze into my mk2 vr6

Edited July 27, 2015 by boab3

[c00k 435]

Cheers buddy,

The engine has been raised, so that makes things even closer.

But no there wasn't much clearance,

I had to cut a small part away, on the front edge of the inner engine bay. but it was very minimal.

Pipe work can be customised to fit most spaces,

Mine about to change slightly as I'm going to fit a recirc valve, and move the MAF before the charger.

Plugs I'm running are BRK7E, gapped to 0.7... I may also try these gapped down.

Vince from stealth racing recommended FR7KPP33+ Also gapped to 0.7. So I may try a set soon.

[boab3 164]

I lifted mines with hockey pucks so sits slightly higher for sump clearance.yeah i was recommended with putting maf before charger that must be a hotter spsrk plug.ive a set of internal bearings to fit to charger then build up before an attempt to fit

[ky_uk 304]

Your build is inspirational, I have just bought a 96 vr6 mk3 and a second engine and gearbox I am just in the middle of stripping it he car down and rebuilding it for track use at the same time as doing a complete engine rebuild on my number 2 engine and also supercharging my 1st engine. Ouch my head hurts ha ha, but looking at your build reminds me of how worth it it's going to be.