*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 We fitted the Schrick this afternoon and the car is running extremely lumpy.Things done.1. Sequence of the HT leads attached to the coil pack.2. Changed the spark plugs3. Refitted the old manifold back on4. Removed the schrick completely5. Let the car run for 10mins with both the schrick fitted and the old manifold fitted after disconnecting the battery.6. Fitted HT leads correctlyShe seems to pull ok when you give it some beans but especially in 1st and 2nd she seems to hesitate in low rev's? Link to post Share on other sites
oldmandon 1 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 Why do we disconect the battery? I had the car dyno'd today, first run was with standard filter, second I fitted a Ramair induction kit. I asked the guy doing the dyno about disconecting the battery he said don't need to as it's the MAF that decides on fueling due to air flow?? But I'd read a few posts where people disconect the battery....who's right?Would not disconecting the battery have made a difference to the power produced? as I only got a 5bhp gain thought you were supposed to get more??!! Link to post Share on other sites
ashmk3 0 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 I have never had a shrick but I heard they have vac lines are they all connected? Link to post Share on other sites
b19drg 0 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 Why do we disconect the battery? I had the car dyno'd today' date=' first run was with standard filter, second I fitted a Ramair induction kit. I asked the guy doing the dyno about disconecting the battery he said don't need to as it's the MAF that decides on fueling due to air flow?? But I'd read a few posts where people disconect the battery....who's right?Would not disconecting the battery have made a difference to the power produced? as I only got a 5bhp gain thought you were supposed to get more??!![/quote']What power did you make ?? Link to post Share on other sites
oldmandon 1 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 Why do we disconect the battery? I had the car dyno'd today' date=' first run was with standard filter, second I fitted a Ramair induction kit. I asked the guy doing the dyno about disconecting the battery he said don't need to as it's the MAF that decides on fueling due to air flow?? But I'd read a few posts where people disconect the battery....who's right?Would not disconecting the battery have made a difference to the power produced? as I only got a 5bhp gain thought you were supposed to get more??!![/quote']161 before 166 after...bit dissappointed really. will show you the readouts tomorrow........induction roar is awesome though...so 1 plus point!!!!!!What power did you make ?? Link to post Share on other sites
raddo_tom 0 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 I'm gonna say split induction pipe Link to post Share on other sites
craggsy 91 Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 not nicked HT leads under the manifold itself thus making them arc, so easy to do? Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Why do we disconect the battery? I had the car dyno'd today' date=' first run was with standard filter, second I fitted a Ramair induction kit. I asked the guy doing the dyno about disconecting the battery he said don't need to as it's the MAF that decides on fueling due to air flow?? But I'd read a few posts where people disconect the battery....who's right?Would not disconecting the battery have made a difference to the power produced? as I only got a 5bhp gain thought you were supposed to get more??!![/quote']you have to disconnect the battery whenfitting a schrick as you have to solder onto the ECU wires you shouldnt have to disconnect battery to swap airfilter the maf senses amount of air going in so should automatically compensate Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,456 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Sounds like a vacuum / intake air leak to me! Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 The firing order in the knowledge vault is wrong according to my car and funky fives 1 & 5 need to be swapped over all good all running sweet Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 She is firing ok but is hesitating. Link to post Share on other sites
garrett281083 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Where did you buy the cams mate. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 Where did you buy the cams mate.I havent yet. Going to get an C2 ECU first then wait for the Cams. Link to post Share on other sites
garrett281083 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 i had the same problem, so i got my leads and plugs changed and it was fine. when i floored it it wud be fine in 1st but then wud start farting a bit stopping it rev properly. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 So did new plugs and leads resolve the issue? Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Ah she is running like a dog, the old girl is hesitating. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Hi all check the spark plug and coilpack sequence and I am still having problems. I've also checked all hoses related to the Schrick.I check vag.com and got the below errors00533 - Idle Speed Regulation: Adaptation Limit (Add) ExceededPossible Symptoms * Bad Fuel Economy Possible Causes * Air Leak between Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Engine * Injector(s) faulty * Fuel Pressure Regulator faulty * Throttle Body faulty * Intake Air Filter dirty Possible Solutions * Perform Throttle Body Adaptation * Check Hoses and Pipes to/between Components * Check Intake Air Filter * Check Fuel Pressure Regulator * Check Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve * Check Injector(s) and00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30: Signal Outside Specifications00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30: Implausible SignalPossible Causes * Fuse(s) faulty * Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module faulty * Power Supply (Battery/Generator) faulty Possible Solutions * Check Fuse(s) * Check/Repair Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module * Check Power Supply (Battery/Generator) Special Notes * When found in an individual control module, it's most likely a local source (e.g. wiring/connectors). * When found in multiple control modules at the same time, it's most likely a common source (e.g. ground spot, battery, generator). * Intermittent codes are often stored during low outside temperature when the battery capacity goes down and may be ignored. Would these cause the problem with the girl hesitating? Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Air leak between the throttle body and the inlet valve. Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Air leak between the throttle body and the inlet valve.Where is the inlet valve? Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 did you want to borrow my maf to see if that helps maybe when the antifreeze shot in that direction a little bit went in can lend you contact cleaner if you dont have any have yo u tried clearing the codes and starting again Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 did you want to borrow my maf to see if that helps maybe when the antifreeze shot in that direction a little bit went in can lend you contact cleaner if you dont have any have yo u tried clearing the codes and starting againCan do matey, just wondering where the inlet valve is in relation to the throttle body? Link to post Share on other sites
UnitedMotorsport 55 Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Air leak between the throttle body and the inlet valve.Where is the inlet valve?6 of them in the cylinder head.It sounds like you have a leak on the manifold somewhere. Gaskets? Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Is the inlet valve between the fuel rail and bottom right of the Schrick or does it relate to the vacuum bottle? Link to post Share on other sites
*P3nfold* 0 Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Thanks United Motorsport. I can only think of three gaskets.1. Throttle Body (Bolts were cracked but where tighten again)2. Manifold Gasket (Reused existing)3. Between the tube things and the Manifold. (Silicone sealant) Link to post Share on other sites
CALICO 130 Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 grab new ones from vw i'll get them thursday refit saturday if u want Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts