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Hard to say if theres quite abit of millage on it as coolant hoses can fail after time.. Its very possible they could have damaged it doing the work but hard to prove it!

Ask to have a look at the old one then try blaming them for the damage and ask them what there going to do about it, Worth a try but to be honist you don't have a leg to stand on and they could just tell you where to go

Good luck

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well the cars done, pick it up tomorrow £162 in total. im just gonna leave it because as you say how could i prove it? i just wont go back there again. they replaced the themostat but my temp gauge still barely moves, is that right.

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well the cars done' date=' pick it up tomorrow £162 in total. im just gonna leave it because as you say how could i prove it? i just wont go back there again. they replaced the themostat but my temp gauge still barely moves, is that right.

[/quote']

nope

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on the front of your thermostat housing there will be two or three sensors. Blue (G62 I think) which tells the ecu what temp the engine is at, a Yellow which tells the fans when to come on and feeds the temp gauge on the dash and possibly a third which is only present for cars with aircon (right most of sensors).

On my car, the thermo housing was leaking when I got it, the thermo stat would also get stuck open once the engine was warm (causing underhaeting) but the yellow temp sensors had gone too. The result was that the temp gauge was random and the car ran really rich (since it was too cold and the ecu richened the mixture to try to compensate).

It's possible that the garage did not fit the thermostat right (jammed open) or that the yellow temp sensor is blown. The easy test is to get VAGCOM on the car and comparte the ECU temp reading (blue sensor) with the dash reading (yellow sensor). If they agree then they are probably correct since they are hugely unlikely to both fail in the same way. In that case, the engne is running very cold and won't be running weell at all. Not a real problem for a couple of hundred miles but will gradually damage cat etc if left unattended (not to mention wrecking MPG, mine went from 17 to 34 when fixed)

In all, I did a full thermo housing, sensor switch and coolant change for £80. Took me an afternoon and was a bit of a faff but I didn't use a garage and I didn't get f**ked over. If it ain't a job that requires ramps, welding or engine removal, I'd urge you to get your hands dirty and have a go. 99% of the time you'll do a better job than the garage.

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thanks for that ip you guys have been a great help but i think i may have the cylinder liner problem. i came back from a motorway run poped the bonnet and sqeezed the hoses. i could just amount sqeeze them, i couldnt get the insides of the hoses to touch. i opened the cap on the header tank and the coolant started bubbling over, once the pressure had gone i could squeeze the hoses together. bad news isnt it?

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  • 1 month later...

I don't mean to resurrect an old thread - so my apologies, but I wish to pick you fellow VR6 owners brains.

Firstly, I had a split hose a couple of weeks back which had me lose stacks of water etc. That was fixed, but I think I've created a new problem by removing the split (pressuring the system maybe?). My radiator is now leaking pink, oily fluid from one corner. It has no odour, but stains the road. I've checked the brake fluid and the power steering resevoir - both are fine.

My water level in the expansion tank remains much the same - but two days ago my "low-water" light flashed at me on start-up, so I filled her backup and tried to find a leak and couldn't find one. I haven't lost any water since then, but my radiator is still leaking. I'm concerned because if I'm not filling her up with anything - surely whatever is leaking is going to run out!? Also, I've not put anything pink in the car fluid-wise... so what the hell is it!?

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