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What does all those turbo numbers mean?


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I have a garrett t04e turbo and its too laggy for me . . . . . I want to put out 300 hp with another turbo that spools up faster. The t04e doesnt spool full before 4200-4300 rpm.

I have thought about the gt3071R, but there are so many variants of compressor and turbine housing and i dont know what they mean.

Could need some help. Thanks

This car has aproxx the same figs.

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gt30r maybe? i think kevheywires probably the best person to ask as hes tried a number of differant turbos...

mines not driving properly at the moment but by the looks of things im gona get full boost around 4000rpm too but i dont mind as i dont have a lsd and the car will hopefully be rolling to a stage where itl help with the traction when the boost does come in....

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I´m running 0,6 bar ca 9 psi. My downpipe is 3" and then 2,5" the rest of the way. Maybe an electronic boost controller would help against the lag? What is up with your turbo? My real question was, what does the numbers like .60 a/r mean. (on the turbo specs.

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I ran a GT3071R on mine. You can roll into it at 2500rpm and it will full boost at 2800ish pm.

I found traction to be a nightmare with that turbo. I now run a GT3582, which full boosts at 3500rpm, which is more useful for a road car as it doesn't spin the wheels so easily in the lower gears.

I would say the GT3076 is the best compromise between the 2, or a GT35R with a T04E compressor housing (2" outlet) would work well too.

If you want to know about what the turbo numbers mean, believe it or not, this and last month's Redline magazine has a good guide on turbos.

A/R on the hot side determines lag. The bigger the number, the laggier it will be.

A/R on the compressor side doesn't mean an awful lot tbh. The bigger the number, the more it can flow. The 3071 is AR 50, 3076 is AR 60 and the GT35 is AR 70.

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Ok, I have done some work on my car this weekend. . . .mostly heat shielding. But then i desided to take my intake manifold off and sand it down . . . . . . I´ve been reading about how to do this and I had imagined how much job it was, but It was SO much harder! It took ALL weekend Thursday through Sunday. Posting some pics.

II didnt want to go ALL chrome on the manifold though, I like it better brushed. (no I did not giive up;).)

And then the rest of my engiine bay doesnt look that shitty compared.

Anyhow, has anybody tried fitting an electronic boost controller? Is it worth the money? Its supossed to reduce lag by opening the wastegate at the presice boost settiing and not a moment earlier.

And is it possible to hook it up so it knows wich gear your in?

Thanks for helping.

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You should be spooling way faster than that mate. Whats the engine specs, exhaust size, internal/external wastegate, intercooler size, turbo a/r etc.

Yeah a boost controller will help considerably. I use an apexi AVCR and its the best on the market imo.

Heat shielding the turbo won't help much, as your biggest heat problem is the inlet manifold going over the engine and next to the turbo.

My To4e makes full boost at 3k, but it is only a .63 ar.

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I have a 3" downpipe, but before the cat its only 2", but i have to get "MOT" before i change it to something bigger. . . . . thinking 3" al way to the 2 resonators at the end, wich are 2,5".

I dont know what the ar is. . . . . The compressor side is .60 ar, but as i put on the heat shield i cant see the exhaust ar. (And im not going to take it of today because its snowing;))

Checked the specs on the turbokit and the turbo is T04B.

External wastegate tial 38.

Redtops, with remap.

Something i forgot?

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I have a 3" downpipe' date=' but before the cat its only 2", but i have to get "MOT" before i change it to something bigger. . . . . thinking 3" al way to the 2 resonators at the end, wich are 2,5".

I dont know what the ar is. . . . . The compressor side is .60 ar, but as i put on the heat shield i cant see the exhaust ar. (And im not going to take it of today because its snowing;))

Checked the specs on the turbokit and the turbo is T04B.

External wastegate tial 38.

Redtops, with remap.

Something i forgot?

[/quote']

Ahh, so your just running off the spring in the wastegate?? Defo get an electronic boost controler, will make a world of difference and a lot quicker.

Also sort the exhaust as it will restrict the turbo spool and power. Also be careful of cylinder temps, as if the exhaust is too restrictive then the exhaust gases get backed up and increase temps quite considerably.

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I have a 3" downpipe' date=' but before the cat its only 2", but i have to get "MOT" before i change it to something bigger. . . . . thinking 3" al way to the 2 resonators at the end, wich are 2,5".

I dont know what the ar is. . . . . The compressor side is .60 ar, but as i put on the heat shield i cant see the exhaust ar. (And im not going to take it of today because its snowing;))

Checked the specs on the turbokit and the turbo is T04B.

External wastegate tial 38.

Redtops, with remap.

Something i forgot?

[/quote']

Ahh, so your just running off the spring in the wastegate?? Defo get an electronic boost controler, will make a world of difference and a lot quicker.

Also sort the exhaust as it will restrict the turbo spool and power. Also be careful of cylinder temps, as if the exhaust is too restrictive then the exhaust gases get backed up and increase temps quite considerably.

my cars finaly mapped now c2 kit, car running alot better and im gettin full boost around the 3700/3800rpm mark jon, with similar turbo to urself, also just running off the spring in the tial 38mm wastegate...

my Q is, im also going to order the avcr, how would you fit this to an external wastegate? is it hard to set up on the vr6 ie injector duties and all that... as a friend had one on his puntoGT turbo and he was forever setting his up....

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I wouldn't spend all that money on an AVCR personally.

Why not just get a TurboSmart Boost Tee to see what kind of boost you want, only about £45. It's a proper gated valve and fit and forget.

My DTA has full PWM control of an amal valve to control boost (as per those Eboost and AVCR controllers) and it was just silly. I turned that off and went back to the Boost Tee. Simple is best ;-)

You don't need to touch the map. If you're using the C2 440cc software, it will be good for up to 20psi of boost.

You will need a boost gauge though.....and a wideband AFR guage not a bad idea too, or EGT!

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tbh i was in two minds about the avcr, might just go for the tsmart, but i like the display of the avcr and all its other options like controlling the boost levels in differant gears and rpm's...

at the mo i have a "7psi" spring in the wastegate that runs only 5psi, i also have a "1bar" spring for it. im going to put that in saturday and hopefully it only runs 12/13psi then i wont even need a boost controler il be happy at that, vac pipe straight to the wastegate....

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fitted the 1 bar spring today and sorted boost leak i noticed... i hve much less lag now i get 14psi at round 3600rpm and now running 14psi, my gosh is it quick!!

i think il ditch the boost controler alltogether to be honest and get maybe 12 psi spring and 264's....

bobtrude let us know how you get on with the 3" downpipe mine made quite bit of differance...

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Hi, I Now have 3" from the turbo to the two rear silencers. The turbo spools some faster, ut not much, maybe 200rpms. I cleaned my filter and that made much more difference. The last owner had greased up the engine bay with some anti corrosion wax:(. The filter had rubbed in the wax and it was over all dirty. This helped MUCH. Like getting 20 extra hp. But it was nice getting the exhaust sorted, going to remove one more silencer when i get the energy. It makes some more noise now, bt i want more noise;). Want back that VR6 sound that i feel i lost when it got turboed. . . . . .

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Yes I did, but i guess it depends on the exhaust. Before today it was inpossible for the untrained eye to tell the difference between my vrt and a 1,6 in noise. Maybe exept from the popoff. . . . . ;). _I guess that I only need the last silenser and that will solve my "problem".

I checked my lag today with a friend, and its full boost at 3600, so not that dissapointed:).

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I guess so, its a shame though, it sounded better, but im not complaining;). Been driving for a day now, and the 3 inch definitely works better. Not only does it spool faster. . . . its stronger before it spools. It was cheap also.

I did the welding myself and the pipe cost me 65 quid all finished and bendt. (thats cheap in Norway;))

I welded the cat on (you HAVE to have a cat in Norway, or else they chop your balls off and feed then to our prime minister), and it took some time, did you know that you can get sunburned from welding??????? Well i knew, but i didnt belive it untill i got home. I had been welding with only a t-shirt on (and jeans). LOL!

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