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1 piece valves?


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  • 2 weeks later...

I want good mate, Was thinking that one piece might be better/stronger but pehaps not, Would you say standard new items are the way to go as far a big power is involved.

What vavles are you using in yours? Would also be intrested to find out what valves Kev and Lizard racing are using in there high powered VRs, Cheers for the reply

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I want good mate' date=' Was thinking that one piece might be better/stronger but pehaps not, Would you say standard new items are the way to go as far a big power is involved.

What vavles are you using in yours? Would also be intrested to find out what valves Kev and Lizard racing are using in there high powered VRs, Cheers for the reply

[/quote']

Mine are all standard mate ! My full motor is standard apart from some studs and forged rods ! If it aint broke dont fix it

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Most good valves are two piece if you use a magnet one end will be magnetic and one wont !

Cheap copy valves are one peace what do you want good or s##t ?

Must be a good reason why high powered 20vt owners change their valves from 2piece to 1piece? and i doubt its becuase they're s##t!

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Thats what I was thinking. I can't think why valves would be 2 piece in the first place? I would think they where weaker but if there defo strong enuff then im happy getting some new standard items.

But is anyone aware of uprated vavles. Possibly soduim filled?

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Most good valves are two piece if you use a magnet one end will be magnetic and one wont !

Cheap copy valves are one peace what do you want good or s##t ?

Must be a good reason why high powered 20vt owners change their valves from 2piece to 1piece? and i doubt its becuase they're s##t!

They are not all s##t but most good valves are two peice and how many two peice valves have you seen that have fell apart ?

And why replace valves unless they are bent or you are going bigger if you are going bigger try these Supertech Performance Valves

search for Vw valves at this link !

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

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Good man, Thats what I was looking for! Thanks for that,

Now ive got too many to chose from lol.

Probaly go with your recomendation " Supertech" They do standard sizes as well and are designed for turbo convertions. Handling the extra heat and apranty inproving flow and reliablity. Would also consider the SCHRICK vavles as its a name well hurd of.

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Good man' date=' Thats what I was looking for! Thanks for that,

Now ive got too many to chose from lol.

Probaly go with your recomendation " Supertech" They do standard sizes as well and are designed for turbo convertions. Handling the extra heat and apranty inproving flow and reliablity. Would also consider the SCHRICK vavles as its a name well hurd of.

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Ferrea Valves are as good as you can get but more expensive ! If you are gona change all your valves go for over size and get some head work as vr heads flow crap !

Can recomend some body Roger upperton he lives in leeds though but when it comes to head work he is one of the best in the country FACT ! He is the only person i would trust with my head

http://www.upperton-racing.co.uk/

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Fair play, He seems to deal in mosty motorbikes but if you say he can do a good job on a VR then thats good enuff for me,

Its abit exspenive tho!!, Arnt they normaly about £1000 for a Big Vavle port and polished head?

When I could just turn the boost up more!!

The reason I would be changing the vavles would be to make the engine as reliable as possible, Not realy to gain power.

If money was know object then of course I would get it done, Just depends how much it would cost??

Any idea how much he would charge if you have looked into it before?

Cheers

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Fair play' date=' He seems to deal in mosty motorbikes but if you say he can do a good job on a VR then thats good enuff for me,

Its abit exspenive tho!!, Arnt they normaly about £1000 for a Big Vavle port and polished head?

When I could just turn the boost up more!!

The reason I would be changing the vavles would be to make the engine as reliable as possible, Not realy to gain power.

If money was know object then of course I would get it done, Just depends how much it would cost??

Any idea how much he would charge if you have looked into it before?

Cheers

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If there is nothing wrong with your valves dont bother they dont really break "burn out " !

But with good flow it will do better power at lower boost and i bet it dont cost as much as you think !

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Its abit exspenive tho!!' date=' Arnt they normaly about £1000 for a Big Vavle port and polished head?

When I could just turn the boost up more!!

[/quote']

Bill Schimmel built my head for $1250 outright. It has 1mm oversize Ferrea Inconel valves, 3 angle plunge cut seats, valve stem diameter reduction, titanium valve caps and retainers, Meyle tappets and gasket matched intake ports.

The same spec built over here would have cost me £2000+VAT.

With that and 263 cams, my top end has really come alive. One of my aims with this project was to make good power with minimal boost and my engine spec makes 350whp (392hp @ crank) with only 11psi and a 6500rpm rev limit.

It would make over 400 @ 7000rpm and the head and cams will go there and beyond quite easily.

You can of course turn the boost up instead, there's no rules in this game, it's down to personal preference. Just be careful to keep the boost within your turbo's compressor map. Don't run it too hard. The stock VR head and cams have been known to do 700whp with 35psi boost, so they're not too bad.

Regarding flowing the 12V head, it's only worth doing the exhaust tracts. You can find 33% more flow from there but only about 6% more flow from flowing the intake runners. Since the turbo's exhaust turbine is all the back pressure a turbo engine needs, I see little point in flowing the exhaust tracts. Your money would be better spent removing any back pressure after the turbine instead.

Personally I think there is too little metal to play with on a 12V head in the first place, so I would recommend just letting more air in with +1mm bigger valves and +1mm lift, 256 to 263 duration cams instead.

And you'll gain more from head modifications if the engine capacity is increased too.

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It all depends on what you want to do with the engine. If you need more revs then the head will need work, valves, springs, retainers etc. The stock heads aren't great, due to valve sizes. Baisically over 400hp the head becomes a restriction. This isn't a problem, it just means you have to work harder from then on to get decent gains, ie more boost. Theyre are people who run well over 600whp on a stock head, but they have to put the engine under far more stress to get there, than people who have had head work.

As kev mentioned, head work gives the advantage of flow, meaning more power from less boost. Just look at engines as pumps, the easier air can get in, the less stress on the pump to get it out quickly.

Don't compare 12v vr haeds to 1.8t heads as they are a world apart in design and construction.

If your after valves, springs cams etc, give me a shout.

We also show a fair amount here -http://www.vagworx.co.uk/products.php?category=3

Regards,

Jon.

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