DIY turbo guide

[rodney 17]

I must admit I did think of Lunar Space technology when I saw that. Wasnt enought Gold/Bronze coloured foil yet tho'

Must say very Impressive Keep going

[VRTime 0]

DP flexi pipe (aka "Flex bellows") I got from Schimmel for 35 bucks. There just weren't any at all in the UK when I needed one. V Band 'kit' I also got from Shcimmel for about $30 IIRC. Comes with the clamp and 2 weld on rings. AET turbos also sell them' date=' but at £41+VAT a kit though. They're Clampco ones and very good quality.

[/quote']

Yeah, dont you find shops are realy retarded in the UK when it comes to forced induction parts! They are only any good for shiney stick on bits and neon lights

[FishWick 21]

Yep, LOL!

To answer some questions:-

Throttle cable - It's just the standard one.

Road legal - Well I can't drive it if it isn't! Exhaust is 3" from turbo to back axle, where it mates up with the 2.25" SuperSprint system.

When the car is up and running, I will get a 2.5" exhaust and 3" cat made up. The Cat will be Vband for quick DIY removal/refit.

[Ciaran 4]

sorry thought it might be a track weapon.

how is the standard gearbox going to take 3-400bhp??

[FishWick 21]

It's not the power that kills gearboxes, it's the torque. 3rd is a weak gear where the VW box is concerned when turboing the engine. It's usually when the tyres find grip again after a slip that causes the teeth to strip off.

350-400 wheel torque is pushing the boundaries, but it's useable on a daily basis so long as you don't do too many traffic light grand prix and are sensible with throttle openings.

If you go to 500 wheel torque and over, then you need to look at a stronger gear sets or the O2M gearbox and haldex 4WD :-)

[jcorallo 0]

Is that an Audspeed exhaust manifold? www.audspeed.com

This guy also advertises on ebay in the USA.

Jules

[FishWick 21]

It looks similar doesn't it? IbiVR will know as I got the manifold from him....

[VRTime 0]

Is that an Audspeed exhaust manifold? www.audspeed.com

This guy also advertises on ebay in the USA.

Jules

Audspeed are not the manufacturer, they are just a supplier. But yes its the same

A buddy of mine has one in stock in the UK if you interested in one, I think he wants £300

[jcorallo 0]

Ahh - wonder who makes them then, and where?

Jules

[Ciaran 4]

well my gearbox already crunches into 3rd on full throttle gear changes as it is so may just get it rebuilt when i go the turbo route. or wait for it to break first

how expensive is it to go 4wd??

[IbiVR 0]

Is that an Audspeed exhaust manifold? www.audspeed.com

This guy also advertises on ebay in the USA.

Jules

Audspeed are not the manufacturer' date=' they are just a supplier. But yes its the same

A buddy of mine has one in stock in the UK if you interested in one, I think he wants £300

[/quote']

Correct. Same thing.

I have loads in stock. And i only want £250

Tom.

[VRTime 0]

Is that an Audspeed exhaust manifold? www.audspeed.com

This guy also advertises on ebay in the USA.

Jules

Audspeed are not the manufacturer' date=' they are just a supplier. But yes its the same

A buddy of mine has one in stock in the UK if you interested in one, I think he wants £300

[/quote']

Correct. Same thing.

I have loads in stock. And i only want £250

Tom.

Ha Ha, that'll be cheaper then (y)

I did a little reading on the lm-1 & lc-1 :S I now understand that it basically tells you whats going on (good vid on the inovative site for insight), and that your using a RR-FPR, which could obviously be adjusted to suit your readings from the lc-1

Is this going to be a temporary solution and what sort of PSI do you think will be safe with that setup? If it is temporary, what are you going to do to manage the fueling and ignition more effectively? I pressume the only solution would be to either go over to stand alone??? Or does anyone in the UK produce a custom eprom for such a solution???

Sorry for all the questions :$ but this is addictive stuff, and im sure others would be interested also :-p

Cheers

G

[FishWick 21]

The maker of the manifold remains a mystery, but I have an interesting picture of what is actually ground off to show you later ;-)

Ciaran, I'm not sure how much it costs to go 4x4, but the parts are readily available. You need to modify a synchro rear axle to take the Haldex diff and if you use the 02M 6 cog box with it, it's good for 600hp out of the factory.

If you need proof, hunt out some youtube clips of EIP's turbo R32 ;-)

VRTime, Yes it is addictive :-)

Another thing you can do with the LC-1 (especially with OBD2) is take one of the two analogue outputs and feed the ECU with it. So you get the benefit of a wider voltage band with the convenience of the stock ECU. If you're going standalone, the LC-1 also has a digital 5 V output.

I have since bought and EGT gauage and read up on that too, so the combination of wideband AFR and EGT will tell me what i need to know. You can also go mad and monitor CHT too (cylinder head temp) because sometimes EGT can go low and CHT can go right up and you're in bother.... but I'm keeping the gauge count to a minimum - mechanical boost, AFR, EGT.

Yes I have a boost dependant RR-FPR.... the big alloy thing bolted to the chassis turret.

Yeah it's temporary. The wastegate has an 8psi spring in it, and that's going to be my 'testing' boost pressure. When I'm happy nothing is leaking and the knock data logs don't show anything too scary, I will up to 10psi, then 12, then 14, then 15 in safe steps and keep monitoring knock.

Then I will go up to my mechanic to get my 3.0 8.5 CR engine fitted, run that in and then it will be crunch time with the management. Do I go 4" maf + remap for 15psi and 380-400hp, or do I go standalone and 25psi? :-)

I don't know mate. I knew absolutely nothing about this stuff 3 months ago and I'm still learning, so I will play it by ear.

[VRTime 0]

More gauges that you can wave a stick at lol :-d

Im also learning the "art", the more time I spend now asking questions the less time im removing bits of piston out of my sump

Im supprised to hear that you going to go with 8psi as a baseline with the RR-FPR, but I guess if the inovative stuff is going to give the right signals then its a big thumbs up!

Now just hurry up and finish it

[jcorallo 0]

The maker of the manifold remains a mystery' date=' but I have an interesting picture of what is actually ground off to show you later ;-)

[/quote']

Oh you tease you!

Come on - tell us!

Jules

[Ciaran 4]

yes mate iv seen pics of the EIP R32 before fcukin mental machine like. might be worth me reshelling my car before i do anything cos we didn't do the best of jobs welding on the new chassis leg.

has a golf mk3 shell the same amount of space around it as the corrado bay??

[FishWick 21]

MK3 bay is bigger mate. It's the car of choice for turboing as there's more room for intercoolers and such like. The Corrado is extremely cramped, everything has to be mm perfect.

The good news is that both the Corrado and MK3 were designed for 4x4 from day one, so have huge transmission tunnels and both boot floors can be cut out and replaced with a syncrho one (and corresponding tank) quite easily. You need the boot floor as it has the right clearance and also the hanger for the rear diff etc. It's been done on quite a few Corrados now.

A MK3 Syncrho would be a good car, but dump the synchro and go haldex.

[FishWick 21]

Oh you tease you!

Come on - tell us!

LOL' date=' I still don't know who made it, sorry if I implied that, but these are the interesting markings I was referring too. I wonder why they get ground off? Some kind of copyright thing perhaps?

[img']http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x2/kevhaywire/7.jpg

[FishWick 21]

More gauges that you can wave a stick at lol :-d

I'm trying to avoid a Boeing 747 dashboard. I'm a big believer in OE +. Discretion and subtlety ;-)

Besides which' date=' too many gauges can distract you and cause information overload. You can end up focusing more on those that relaxing and enjoying the car. Just the right amount of info is enough ;-)

Im also learning the "art", the more time I spend now asking questions the less time im removing bits of piston out of my sump

Indeed. Take your time and double check things and you'll be fine.

Are you from the States? If so you have Bill Schimmel in Warminster at your disposal....he's the God of VR6 Turbos ;-)

Im supprised to hear that you going to go with 8psi as a baseline with the RR-FPR' date=' but I guess if the inovative stuff is going to give the right signals then its a big thumbs up![/quote']

8psi is just the spring value in the wastegate, so seems a good starting point. The RRFPR I've got is good for 20psi, but I won't use it for that kind of boost though, I'd prefer a map or standalone.

Bear in mind though that 8psi is still good for 'only' 280hp with 290lb/ft torque :-)

Now just hurry up and finish it

LOL, shouldn't be much longer now!

[FishWick 21]

Okey dokey, a few more updates....

The wastegate dump is figured out. I know what you're thinking and I agree, it's less than ideal, but it's the best I could do for the time being. That's now gone off to the welder and that's it for the exhaust. I'll lag it up this week and mate it up to the exhaust.

The intercooler is in. It just hangs there to allow movement as the engine rocks. I've popped a bit of spare samco under it just in case. Plenty of fore and aft rocking space. Boost loss through that intercooler is 0.25 psi and with such a short path and the SRI aswell, it's going to have a pretty good throttle response.

I've relocated the fan controller and PAS bottle. The screen wash tank is going in the boot with the intercooler tank and battery. When it's running how I want, I will get the boost pipes made up in one peice to reduce the amount of connections, but it's solid enough now.

Next to the fan controller is a twin piston BOV, but I'm changing that for a recirc as I don't want jerky gearchanges. When I eventually go to a MAP sensor, I can then reinstate the BOV.

All that's left to do now is:-

Make false boot floor

Fit intercooler water tank, battery and screen washer tank

Run water lines under car

Wire in boost gauge and Wideband controller (wires already through bulkhead though)

Finish off fuel rail connections

Fit downpipe to exhaust

And a couple of other small bits and bobs.

I am hoping to get all that done this week and fingers crossed, I can bring her up on Sunday to the Stealth Rolling road day.

I'm quite pleased with how it's going, but being a natural worrier, I'm a bit ambivalent about it too. i.e. Will it run? Will things leak? Will I blow it up.... etc etc!

It's only got to last 180 miles to get to Stealth and then they can drop the 3.0 litre in and map it with the 440s and 4" maf housing!

[tubby 0]

This is going to be some piece of kit when it`s finished, can`t wait to see a vid of it blasting around the track.

jealous virgin.

[antonio_b12 1]

quick question,

do oil inlet restrictors come in Turbo Oil Feed Kits?

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-022&Category_Code=OIL

[GVK 1]

Bloody hell Kev, did you get a bulk order on hose clips or what?

Look forward to reading your first drive report.

[FishWick 21]

Antonio - Nope, you get sweet FA with turbos! For a GT turbo you will need a -4 oil feed line, a restrictor, oil filter housing adapter, T3 gasket, 4 x 20mm bolts and oil drain fittings and hose....all seperate items.

Gary - Yeah, I did get a few didn't I? LOL! They're torque tension clamps, much better than worm drive and T bolt clamps....but they're expensive :-(

[antonio_b12 1]

ah... cheers kev