Jump to content

DIY turbo guide


Recommended Posts

Think i missunderstood' date=' i was thinking that Kev has a chip to sort the timing etc but was needing a solution to the unexpected increase in maf size, ie increase in air flow, so my solution would be just to increase the fuel pressure throughout, but keeping the original fuel curve from the map????

My bad, i'll keep me nose out,lol!!!

[/quote']

Hehe sorry, let me explain that better. Yes an adjustable fpr would make up the difference off boost - in essence fine tune the injectors to the increased maf. So in that respect you are right.

The problem is that when you get into boost you would need to increase the fuel pressure further than you did when you adjusted it for baseline idle afr.

This is where the reg that kev has differs - it greatly increases the fuel pressure based on manifold pressure. Ie rather than just lift the whole fueling up a bit, it lifts it higher and higher as the boost rises.

It isnt the best way to do it - it's like back to good old k-jet were your tweaking a screw to get it to run right, and you can end up with scary fuel pressure's, but with a bit of setting up it does work and many people have good results with it.

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 457
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I started my turbo install this week, during the evenings. Turbos are starting to become more popular now, especially as the dollar is so weak at the moment. It would be rude not to capitalise on tha

you should be able to get 4" all the way, thats how its is on mine, but then that how markies done his 4" down to 3" back up

liking the look of this thread. im not realy a mechanic but have a technical background do believe i would be able to carry the fitment of a turbo myself??

Cheers Tom. Yeah the FMU will get me to stealth or least until you sort me out with the OBD2 code :-) I love faffing about with different methods and gadgets and the BEGi is an absolutely stunning peice of kit. When I'm done with it, it will be mounted in a glass cabinet, LOL!

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, a few more piccies to prove I haven't been sitting on my arse, LOL!

In between brief flirtations of downpipe manufacture, I've fitted the chargecooler heat exchanger. This beasty was custom made by Setrab for the Corrado's lower bumper grille - the core is exactly the same width as the grille, awesome :-)

heat_exchanger.jpg

This part was time consuming. Bumper on and off 20 times for alignment, a slight mod to the front panel and a little bit of cutting of the bumper iron with an angle grinder. All easy stuff, but time consuming!

heat_exchanger1.jpg

Here's what it looks like with the bumper on. It's totally invisible externally unless you look for it. Minimal changes to the car structurally, just how I like it - pure stealth!

heat_exchanger2.jpg

Here is the front pipe shape. Taped up in this pic, but is now welded up. Just the 3" flex to weld on and it's pretty much done.

It's made from 2 x 1D tight 90s and a 30 degree elbow, all from Jetex.

downpipe.jpg

Loads of clearance

downpipe1.jpg

A shot of the angles required off the turbo

downpipe3.jpg

This is the most expensive nappy in history. One GT30R blanket. Helps reduce under bonnet temps considerably. It's basically the same stuff used to lag nucleur reactors!!!

Nappy1.jpg

Nappy.jpg

Schimmel stage 1 organic clutch. Good for 350whp. Always good to under clutch to hp to allow a little slip rather than shredding 3rd gear!

350whp_clutch.jpg

This weekend I hope to get all the intercooler pipework sorted and the water tank installed. The front pipe should be completed next week and then it's ready to fire up.

I'm afraid my install is not a budget one, sorry guys :-( We all love a bargain but this is a strictly no compromise install which has to be 100% daily reliable. Including the 3.0 engine Stealth are currently building for me, expenditure so far is around £6000.

You can do this for under £3.5K easily, no question, but I'm afraid I'm too much of a perfectionist! I like to over engineer my projects to cope with unforseen circumstances and I'm hoping to get at least 80K out of my 3.0.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Think i missunderstood' date=' i was thinking that Kev has a chip to sort the timing etc but was needing a solution to the unexpected increase in maf size, ie increase in air flow, so my solution would be just to increase the fuel pressure throughout, but keeping the original fuel curve from the map????

My bad, i'll keep me nose out,lol!!!

[/quote']

Hehe sorry, let me explain that better. Yes an adjustable fpr would make up the difference off boost - in essence fine tune the injectors to the increased maf. So in that respect you are right.

The problem is that when you get into boost you would need to increase the fuel pressure further than you did when you adjusted it for baseline idle afr.

This is where the reg that kev has differs - it greatly increases the fuel pressure based on manifold pressure. Ie rather than just lift the whole fueling up a bit, it lifts it higher and higher as the boost rises.

It isnt the best way to do it - it's like back to good old k-jet were your tweaking a screw to get it to run right, and you can end up with scary fuel pressure's, but with a bit of setting up it does work and many people have good results with it.

Tom.

Lol, sorry, i see what your saying, for some reason i was thinking along the lines of increasing the fuel pressure to suit the boost as it comes in then the ecu could take over increasing the fuel as the airflow increases, lol.

Am trying to take in soo much info lately that i get confused quite easily!!!!!

Must have known thats how it works as iv'e got a cossie rising rate fpr that i'm thinking of using, but i'm liking this fully controllable type (h)

Looks the same as the EIP one, gusess they prob just re-badge it,lol

Which one did you go for then Kev????

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent work kev, and some nice neat tigging there from your man. seems a shame to wrap it doesnt it!

I've had my eye on those blanket, supposed to be quite good at keeping the heat in, and apart form saving your engine ba components, more heat in the turbo will help with spool.

Let me know what you think of it. might have to purchase one..

Or go on the rob at sellafield ;)

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers :-) I can't believe how long this is taking, LOL! Yeah my welder is tops, but he's quite elusive, so it's taking a while to piece together, but end to end, he only wants £50, can't grumble at that!

I was speaking to Grant at AET about the blanket (he with the 2.75 second 0-60mph Green MK1 Golf!!) and he says it's good for 200-300rpm quicker spool and a 50-60% reduction in radiated heat. He knows his stuff so I wasn't going to question the bold claims!! The only downside is the cost, £135 :-( It's made of very exotic materials and considering no OE turbo engines are lagged what so ever, it represents a very small market....so it's expensive. But it sets the engine apart from other turbo engines in a crowd, eh? :-)

It's dragging on now... I need to get cracking before it gets really cold! Plenty more pics to follow!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, I just joined this forum just because of this thread :)

I have just read through with interest because im just about to start a simular conversion, and I must say yours is looking first class :)

I have a couple of questions if I may, I see your using LC1. Isnt this just a 7th injector in the manifold? If so whats your experience with them compared to a full SA? I was going to go SA myself but would be interested to learn how this works in practice :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

DP flexi pipe (aka "Flex bellows") I got from Schimmel for 35 bucks. There just weren't any at all in the UK when I needed one. V Band 'kit' I also got from Shcimmel for about $30 IIRC. Comes with the clamp and 2 weld on rings. AET turbos also sell them, but at £41+VAT a kit though. They're Clampco ones and very good quality.

I got the Innovate LC-1 from Schimmel also and it was $199. I've also got the Innovate XD16 wideband A/F meter to go with it, but I bough that from the UK. Can't remember how much that was, but it wasn't cheap from the UK, that's for sure!!

Yes the LC1 comes with a decent 5V Bosch wideband probe and also the weld on socket and blanking plug. It's very good value. Probably the cheapest way to get Wideband onto your motor by far.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a look at the zeitronix kit too, tbh i much prefer it to the innovate.

www.zeitronix.com

For just 02 sensing the ZT2 with display is a tad more than the lc-1 with xd-1 package, but it can also log RPM and TPS straight out the box.

I also run the EGT sender through it to keep an eye on exhaust temps, I run in a MAP sensor and could view it as a gauge but just use it for the logging as i have a stand alone boost gauge.

I also now run a presure sender from the fuel line to keep an eye on that.

So I view AFR EGT and Fuel Pressure, and log all three along with Boost RPM and TPS.

Theres a new gauge coming out soon that plugs into the ZT2 for a more athsthetically pleasing AFR readout too.

I wouldnt be without it.

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys - the geek of an engineer that I am (really OCD like (h) ) - wants to know more! I haven't read up on turbos as I was planning s/c so the buzz words are above me & as to their purpose also! (I am questioning myself on fitment of s/c vs Turbo)

So Once you are up and running and have some time to kill (snow on the ground - that kinda thing) could you help me out with the lingo, the Y's n what 4's

Cheers and dont forget to keep the pictures coming kevhaywire.

I watch with interest!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hardest thing you might have to do will be fit a spacer, so if your comfortable with doing a head gasket on a VR then you should be fine.

Helps if you can weld, but if you know someone or somewhere that can make you up some pipes your away.

RCF - what is it your after, some sort of turbo glossary? Maybe we could start up a forced induction FAQ of some sort?

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice gauge Tom.

Is EGT monitoring essential or just a nice to have? I guess any sudden rise in exhaust temp spells trouble?

Where abouts would you plumb in the sensor?

Might have to look into that.

I found the spacer and engine mechanicals the easiest part so far, the other faffing about is proving time consuming and complicated....such is the way with custom stuff!

RCF - should have a few more pics this weekend. Regarding Supers versus Turbos, all I'll say (having already tried the super already) is if you like midrange clout, a turbo is probably better for you. Just don't do what I did and spend £1000s on a Super only to find out it's not the power delivery I was hoping for! Loads of people like their supers, but I prefer my urge to kick in lower down the rev range :-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

EGT is nice to have, but essential for mapping. With both EGT and AFR you know pretty much whats going on. IE if your runnign nice and rich, but your over 950 degress C then theres something not right with the timing. It rises VERY quickly, from 400 odd at idle to 6-700 at part throttle, up to 850-950 at full throttle.

Sensor should go in the hottest part of the manifold I have mine right at the turbo collector, another place would be by the no.1 close to the head as this always seems to run a little hotter on the vr's.

If your just looking for a change in temp then downpipe would be fine, but keep in mind if you see 900 there then it's probably too late...

Like I say the Zeitronixc just tells me exactly whats going on, and retrospectivly exaclty whats happened. I can log a 1/4 mile run for example and see whats occuring afterwards.

For a AFR only gauge it may be a bit ott.

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK chaps, a few more updates....

The down pipe is almost done. Just the lambda bosses and wastegate pipes to do and that's pretty much it.

downpipe4.jpg

With the Lambdas (one for ECU, one for Wideband A/F) I've moved them 20" away from the turbo to prevent them from overheating. 12" is the minimum really, but you can get lambda heatsinks if you can't move them away far enough. I've basically done one on each side of the pipe.

Lambda_holes.jpg

To help my welder and keep the boss in the right place, I shaped the bosses to the pipe shape.

Lambda.jpg

More of the downpipe....

downpipe5.jpg

This was my original plan with the Lambdas, but the one closest to the turbo was too close, so did it the aforementioned way instead.

downpipe6.jpg

I've also sorted the intake. I used a 45 degree 4" elbow and then a 4" to 3" reducer to mate up the stock MAF etc. I will only be running 8psi initially during testing, so the standard MAF should cope.

As you can see, the intake hose is damn close to the manifold....

Intake.jpg

So I made this....

intake_shield.jpg

To wrap around it....

intake_shield1.jpg

It's easily removable thanks to the snap fasteners. You can get those from sewing shops for £4 including the fitting tool.

You can't help but notice I've probably gone a bit OTT with the heat sheilding, but I'm not taking any chances!!

heat_wrap.jpg

Intake clearance is pretty good overall. I don't like abrasion related issues!!

Intake1.jpg

Good clearance here too, at least an inch.

intake_clearance.jpg

I've also made a start on the boost pipes. If I didn't know better, I'd say the factory heatshield was purpose made for turbos!

boost.jpg

After struggling to find some black tubing in 63mm, I eventually found these steel table legs in B&Q which are perfect, LOL! :)

boost1.jpg

I'll keep you posted....

She's finally coming together :-p

Link to post
Share on other sites
You can't help but notice I've probably gone a bit OTT with the heat sheilding' date=' but I'm not taking any chances!![/quote']

It does look a bit like saturn 4! but its all neatly done, and the main thing is nothings gonna melt.

Downpipe is looking great, and the table legs are a stroke of genius.

Great stuff, cant wait to see the finished build!

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Tom. Saturn 4, LOL! My aim is to not lift the bonnet much after it's done ;-)

Is the flex bellows going to be OK under the car (same as yours basically) like that as someone said they should only be on the vertical section of pipe?... but I've seen other cars with it on the horizontal....such as your car and my Missus's Rover 25!

My thinking was that as it's right at the bottom of the 'shaped' part of the downpipe (rather than half way down the exhaust system), it should still bend as the engine tilts back and forth?

Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...