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DIY turbo guide


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well can get them all in place and have wire hanging near fuse box. Or could by a cheaper tester to find a switched live...want one thats live when ign on and off when ign off yes

yeah thats rite mate ... there are a few spare connections there on the back just test them untill u find one ..... or run the wires and ill connect them up sat for ya

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I started my turbo install this week, during the evenings. Turbos are starting to become more popular now, especially as the dollar is so weak at the moment. It would be rude not to capitalise on tha

you should be able to get 4" all the way, thats how its is on mine, but then that how markies done his 4" down to 3" back up

liking the look of this thread. im not realy a mechanic but have a technical background do believe i would be able to carry the fitment of a turbo myself??

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

A few updates...

Middle silencer removed.....

old_borla.jpg

...and replaced with a 3" Cat converter and resonator.

cat_converter.jpg

exhaust-1.jpg

The original Setrab chargecooler rad was a tad small I thought, but worked well. I've replaced it with a LHD air con radiator and that's dropped temps a fair bit due to the larger cooling area, plus it all fits neatly being a VW part :-)

The flow has slowed down a bit due to the restriction of the rad, but I'll get a beefier pump!

aircon_rad.jpg

Ford Duratec idle valve added, SX fuel reg deleted and stock regulator added plus some minor tidying up :-)

Stock_airbox-1.jpg

To balance the pleasure, I had some pain a couple of weeks ago when some silly woman turned into me as I was overtaking her. Should be getting the wing and wheel sorted through the insurance fairly soon.

damage.jpg

Roll on winter and some nice cold turbo air! :-)

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Stock reg - I needed to create more room for the stock airbox to fit how I wanted, so it had to go. Plus you can't beat a stock reg in the stock location to maintain even pressure across all 6 injectors. My goals are more focused on OE+ than power :-)

Power - No idea, same as before I suspect. Around 400hp.

Ford idle valve - Why not? :-) The original VR6 3 pin valve is a strange beast. requiring PWM control in 2 directions. The Ford valve is a much simpler and more reliable 1 way valve.

Panel beater, nah, new wing mate!

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I'm interested to see how you find the VAG regulator, also are you using the 3 or 4 Bar reg.

I'm sorting my fuel system this winter so do you think the standard in tank pump plus in line Bosch 044 will be good for 400Bhp?

Also where did you get those charge cooler couplings as they look just the job.

Cheers

Joni.

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I'm interested to see how you find the VAG regulator' date=' also are you using the 3 or 4 Bar reg.

I'm sorting my fuel system this winter so do you think the standard in tank pump plus in line Bosch 044 will be good for 400Bhp?

Also where did you get those charge cooler couplings as they look just the job.

Cheers

Joni.

[/quote']

I use a 4 bar regulator, mainly because it's the pressure my injectors were flow tested and had the dead time measured tested at.

The VAG regulator works fine. I've been reassessing my setup and a lot of it is overkill for the power I'm making, so I'm 'downgrading' some stuff to make it neater and more reliable and I'm finding that the power isn't suffering because of it, but drivability is constantly getting better.

I have a Bosch 044 at home but haven't needed it yet. I use an intank Walbro GSS340 in place of the stock pump and that easily copes with 400hp. It's rated to 500 crank power IIRC.

If you do use the 044, you'll need to feed it with something like a 340 as the stock pump can't keep up with it, which makes it very noisy. I'd also be tempted to enclose it a MK1 GTI sound absorbant foam casing.

I got my coupling hoses from here - http://siliconhoses.com/content.asp?inc=product&catalog=0022B&cat=0022B

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They're 11" and 9", side by side. 9" on the nearside due to the throttle being very close to the radiator, otherwise I would have used two 11" fans.

Wiring is easy, just join the two positives together and connect to fan speed 1 wire on your radiator sender, and then a ground on the block somewhere.

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